Exhaust question
04-04-08, 09:09 AM
#1
Will
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Location: Edmonton AB Canada
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Exhaust question
If an FD3S has a small idle jump and at a stand still and, out of gear idle's a little low(To the point were it almost die's out)
What might be the problem?
Keep in mind it has a small hole in the catback - I was thinking this was the main problem seeing as how I dont have any leaks. So its in the muffler shop right now getting fixed.
Is there anything else you guys think that could be the Source of this idle jumping/motorcycle sounding fd?
P.S When my foot is on the gas there is no idle jump
thnx guys~will
What might be the problem?
Keep in mind it has a small hole in the catback - I was thinking this was the main problem seeing as how I dont have any leaks. So its in the muffler shop right now getting fixed.
Is there anything else you guys think that could be the Source of this idle jumping/motorcycle sounding fd?
P.S When my foot is on the gas there is no idle jump
thnx guys~will
04-04-08, 09:43 AM
#5
a quick search came up with a thread started by damian
The throttle position sensor was the key to it all, but it also was the proccess in adjusting the idle in general that I read from a post. This is what I did.
Get all the tools needed to do the TPS adjustment, the details are at the top of this link: http://www.fd3s.net/TPS_adjustment.html
I HIGHLY suggest a digital voltmeter. I got a realy nice one for $14 at radio shack. Make sure it can give you good resolution at 0-14 volt range. (2 decimal maybe)
Before checking the TPS, first set the throttle body to ground zero, what i mean by that is totally close the air adjustment screw that is on the underside of the throttle body, and also adjust the scew on the top of the throttle body so that is does not hold the butterflies open, in other words, so that it just touches the throttle linkage just as the butterflies are fully closed. I got this idea from erics info on this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...threadid=52710
(much thanks to the thread by supercell and great info posted by eric)
Now its TPS time, follow the proccess on the link above, it is a PIA to get to the darn tps screws, but take your time and DONT strip the screws (some new ones may have allen bolts)...mine was WAY off (obviously, by my problems listed above)....but I was able to adjust it to these settings:
Green/Red wire (2nd from top)
Closed = 1.00 V
Open = 4.99 V
Black wire (bottom)
Closed = .4 V
open = 4.3 V
So I got it set just about perfect, and that is exactly how it ran after I started it...well almost. It idled a bit low (500 rpm) so, since I closed the adjustment screws fully, I had plenty of tweaking room. All I did was un-screw the air adjustment (one below throttle body) until I got the idle to 700-800 rpm and that was it.
Drove it all around with a BIG AZZ SMILE on my face....no hunting, perfect idle, no backfiring on decel or shifting. I love it when it all comes together....and this was one of those times.
By the way, my flow mods are catback, DP, and intake...manual boost controllers (running at 9lbs until I get a power FC in here)
Get all the tools needed to do the TPS adjustment, the details are at the top of this link: http://www.fd3s.net/TPS_adjustment.html
I HIGHLY suggest a digital voltmeter. I got a realy nice one for $14 at radio shack. Make sure it can give you good resolution at 0-14 volt range. (2 decimal maybe)
Before checking the TPS, first set the throttle body to ground zero, what i mean by that is totally close the air adjustment screw that is on the underside of the throttle body, and also adjust the scew on the top of the throttle body so that is does not hold the butterflies open, in other words, so that it just touches the throttle linkage just as the butterflies are fully closed. I got this idea from erics info on this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthr...threadid=52710
(much thanks to the thread by supercell and great info posted by eric)
Now its TPS time, follow the proccess on the link above, it is a PIA to get to the darn tps screws, but take your time and DONT strip the screws (some new ones may have allen bolts)...mine was WAY off (obviously, by my problems listed above)....but I was able to adjust it to these settings:
Green/Red wire (2nd from top)
Closed = 1.00 V
Open = 4.99 V
Black wire (bottom)
Closed = .4 V
open = 4.3 V
So I got it set just about perfect, and that is exactly how it ran after I started it...well almost. It idled a bit low (500 rpm) so, since I closed the adjustment screws fully, I had plenty of tweaking room. All I did was un-screw the air adjustment (one below throttle body) until I got the idle to 700-800 rpm and that was it.
Drove it all around with a BIG AZZ SMILE on my face....no hunting, perfect idle, no backfiring on decel or shifting. I love it when it all comes together....and this was one of those times.
By the way, my flow mods are catback, DP, and intake...manual boost controllers (running at 9lbs until I get a power FC in here)
04-04-08, 05:33 PM
#7
Will
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K Well i just got back from the MUFFler shop and had the catback removed and a straiight pipe put in. the idle is the same but the bad motorcycle sound is gone.
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