Everything has power! Car won't Crank or Start? What's up?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Everything has power! Car won't Crank or Start? What's up?
Alright, I have power to everything....
Radio, Lights, Windows, Dome LIghts, etc etc etc... everything is powered....
But the car wont crank at all....
Any suggestions, we are working on it as we speak...
Lemme know asap
Thanks
-Darren-
Battery is good, and so is the starter... and grounding.
Radio, Lights, Windows, Dome LIghts, etc etc etc... everything is powered....
But the car wont crank at all....
Any suggestions, we are working on it as we speak...
Lemme know asap
Thanks
-Darren-
Battery is good, and so is the starter... and grounding.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
the starter is making noise, and the power fc says it is getting 11.8v when its not trying to be started, and 11.6v when we try to start it...
alarm thing is sorted out...
The Vacuum box (behind the alternator) is making a rapid clicking noise when the car is trying to be started....
alarm thing is sorted out...
The Vacuum box (behind the alternator) is making a rapid clicking noise when the car is trying to be started....
Last edited by dhahlen; Nov 5, 2003 at 12:12 AM.
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 4,772
Likes: 2
From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
Is there a main relay or something similar that he could have blown?
What is the equivilant of a distributor or ignitor on the RX7? ...how does he check that?
What is the equivilant of a distributor or ignitor on the RX7? ...how does he check that?
this is the best pic i could get of the Power FC commander....in the sensors thing...maybe you experts can figure it out...(if you can read it)

the neutral light thing is blinking on and off (car is in neutral)

the neutral light thing is blinking on and off (car is in neutral)
Last edited by dysko; Nov 5, 2003 at 12:31 AM.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
battery has it's normal negative terminal, and on top of it there are two jumper cables, one routing to the chasis, the other routing to a metal peice on the engine.
The car is a manual
The car is a manual
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Safety switch on the clutch? Is it even possible to start the car with the clutch depressed? Where is it at?
I was informed it was at the top of the clutch pedal, the Power FC says the clutch is engaged when you press it... does that mean the switch it where it should be?
I was informed it was at the top of the clutch pedal, the Power FC says the clutch is engaged when you press it... does that mean the switch it where it should be?
Last edited by dhahlen; Nov 5, 2003 at 12:14 PM.
According to the manual, there are 2 switches located under the steering column that the clutch pedal operates....one is an "inhibitor" switch and the other is a switch that releases when the clutch is depressed...
If the car has been sitting a while, one or both may be stuck in one position......
some wd40 may help.....
If the car has been sitting a while, one or both may be stuck in one position......
some wd40 may help.....
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
Alright, two switches were found. One gets pushed in when the clutch is engaged, and the other gets depressed with it is engaged. THey work as opposites, they seam to be working just fine... anything else?
The engine wont crank? So in other words, the engine isn't turning over at all right? Has the car been sitting up for a while? Does the starter make that clicking sound? Grab a wrench or socket and manualy turn over the engine at the alternator. This way you can make sure that the engine isn't locked down. This happend to my 12a few years back after I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over at all. It had carbon lock.
I had, or rather, still have, the same issue. My starter is dead though. It clicked like it wanted to start, but just wouldn't. Try getting up under the driver side, and hitting the starter with a hammer a few times, then try to start it. It did the trick for me. I only needed it to start once so I could drive it home, so I have no idea how long a dying one will work for.
Those highlighted area is your TPS. Either you took it off and didn't put it back in correctly or you forget to connect it. It doesn't have anything to do with not wanting to crank though. You should still be able to crank but won't start since the ECU thinks you had the throttle at WOT instead of idle.
Originally posted by dysko
this is the best pic i could get of the Power FC commander....in the sensors thing...maybe you experts can figure it out...(if you can read it)

the neutral light thing is blinking on and off (car is in neutral)
this is the best pic i could get of the Power FC commander....in the sensors thing...maybe you experts can figure it out...(if you can read it)

the neutral light thing is blinking on and off (car is in neutral)
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 4,022
Likes: 24
From: Avondale, AZ
These are my FC Commander REadings
Known Good Readings:
PIM 2.55v
VTA1 0.51v
VTA2 1.14v
VMOP 1.23v
WTRT 0.38v
AIRT 0.68v
FUEL 1.48v
O2S 0.01v
My Readings:
PIM 4.99v
VTA1 0.70v
VTA2 1.66v
VMOP 0.85v
WTRT 2.38v
AIRT 2.50v
FUEL 3.90v
O2S 0.01v
Any clue why my readings are so high?
I dont know how to fix this... car wont stay started... start's but dies instantly...
Help is appreciated,
Thanks
-Darren-
Known Good Readings:
PIM 2.55v
VTA1 0.51v
VTA2 1.14v
VMOP 1.23v
WTRT 0.38v
AIRT 0.68v
FUEL 1.48v
O2S 0.01v
My Readings:
PIM 4.99v
VTA1 0.70v
VTA2 1.66v
VMOP 0.85v
WTRT 2.38v
AIRT 2.50v
FUEL 3.90v
O2S 0.01v
Any clue why my readings are so high?
I dont know how to fix this... car wont stay started... start's but dies instantly...
Help is appreciated,
Thanks
-Darren-


