fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Tell your installer not to be a ***** =P.. I'm running 50psi Fuel Pressure (stock FP is 40psi) with 850cc primaries (essentially 1000cc primaries) and I've got absolutely ZERO problems with my idle (tell your tuner to use negative injector lag). I will have my idle pulse upon cold starts occasionally, but all it takes is a slight amount of momentary pressure on the pedal to steady that out, and once the engine warms to above 40 degrees it goes away any way..


Granted, I'm not an experienced tuner or anything (though the guy who does my tuning is one of the best on the island).. I just read what others have done and would like to learn more for myself..

2wheelsmoker

I do not think you need to upgrade your brakes unless you do track duty. Slotted and cross-drilled brakes actually take a longer distance to stop but they dissipate heat better. Larger calipers and rotors also help reduce heat but you're also introducing additional rotating mass so that hurts as well.

The limiting factor for stopping is your tire contact patch so unless you plan on doing a lot of threshold braking from 80 to 35mph you do not need a big brake kit or fancy rotors. Just make sure your rotors aren't warped and are within spec and install an aggressive street brake pad like grimple said and you're good.

Wild7

I'll give upgraded pads a try and see how it goes. I should upgrade my brake lines while I'm at it. Thanks for the info

Although this car will mainly be used on the street, I will also be tracking the car from time to time. That's the reason I was thinking of going w/ the slotted/drilled rotors. But if stopping distance is affected.. well I'm not sure then if it would be worth it.

I was also looking at purchasing http://corksport.com/store/large/13h...Brace_Set.html but I wasn't sure how much weight those peices added versus other similar but simpler solutions (i.e. http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/greddystrutbar.htm ). Plus the AutoExe set isn't cheap.

I should also add Mazdaspeed Motor Mounts to the never ending list..

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Archie

iTrader: (-1)

The more I thought about it, the more I realized that you could be okay with just new pads and rotors. You hit the nail on the head with the brake lines! If nothing else, slap those puppies on! Oh, and enjoy the ride man.

Wild7

Thanks bro

Still double checking every angle on this build. Should have everything ready for my installer in a month or so.

Main thing I'm waiting on is the turbo kit to come in. Also I'm having to send back the V-mount because it got damaged during shipping.

Also looking at some CE28N's in all Black. 90day wait on those
Was thinking- Front 17x8.5 +40, Rear 17x9.5 +42

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Wild7

Updated Build List:

GT35r divided T4 1.06 Single Turbo Kit

Rebuild w/ Street Port

RE-A Dual Tip Dolphin Tail Cat-back

HKS Twin Power Ignition System + Harness
Power FC w/ Commander

Supra TT Fuel Pump
550/1300 Injectors

V-Mount IC
Modified Koyo Radiator

Greddy Elbow w/ BOV Flange
Greddy Type-RS BOV

Hawk HP+ Brake Pads
Stainless Brakelines

One last thing..

I was thinking about getting AEM's Water Injection Kit http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/aem%20alky%20kit.htm .

Anyone have any experience with this kit?

Maybe experience w/ another kit?

.

Smitter

grrr

Smitter

yeah i would like to hear some reviews on this aem AI kit aswell

Wild7

bump.

I tried to make an AI specific thread but the Mod buried it.

Any thoughts on the AEM kit?
http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/aem%20alky%20kit.htm

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TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

He moved it to the AI section. Yes, we have one.

Wild7

That's what I meant by buried it .
Not too many people visit that section I would assume. And I would imagine most of the people visiting that section are only there to get a question they have answered.

All the traffic is in this section.

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silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

i looooove the way the dolphin exhaust sounds. not too keen on the looks though personally. sounds like a nice build you got going there.

as far as the AI, on this forum, most guys now prefer FJO, Aquamist, and Coolingmist...in that order from what i've noticed. both Coolingmist and Aquamist have a rep on this forum so you know the support is there. just a fyi

Wild7

Thank you . Howard Coleman is being very help full on this topic. I think I will be going w/ FJO as he suggested it's best for a road race car.

However I am still not sure on water or mix.

Still researching.

*One note on the dolphin tail. I'm thinking because the tips are curved towards the ground it will help prevent damage to the vehicle when flames shoot out

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Wide7

iTrader: (2)

I have the GT35R with 1.06 divided hotside and i made just over 500hp, so you shouldnt have a problem

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Wild7, those HP+'s will squeal like a banshee on the street.

Also, 550/1300 isn't really enough injector, why not look into 850/1300? Stock secondaries in the primary slots.

rx7brandon

iTrader: (1)

scrap the 1300cc's if u r going to invest the time and money do 1600. no big differance but you will have more fuel than u need also while ur at it switch the sec 850's to the primary rail. you already need to tune it. too much fuel, no such thing.

spr258

iTrader: (3)

Wide7 i run 550/1680 on my daily driver FD. I made 418 hp at 17.6 lbs on a dyna pack dyno. my set up is a Garret T04s turbo, HKS ignition, power fc, walbro fuel pump, greedy fmic, standered radiator, greedy full 3.75 exhaust. So you can run 550 primaries with no problem. The shop is going to put in a ai kit and we are going to push it to 22 lbs, but that is next year.

WaachBack

iTrader: (21)

I have it. It's a snap to install and in my opinion, the best kit you can buy for the money.

oo7arkman

iTrader: (2)

I also agree in upgrading the injectors.. Although I am a little torn on the 850 primaries. Steve could not get my idle any leaner than 11.2-11.5:1. He said the PFC was too limited to get it any leaner. Kinda frustrating but I guess oh well. I currently run a supra pump as well and I was just fine to 17psi so I don't think you will have issues there. BUT one thing to consider is the Bosche 044. If you are purchasing a pump anyway, why not just go ahead and get something you KNOW you will never have to replace due to lack of performance from your current setup.

Good call on the HKS, you will need it. Spark plugs, A lot of guys on here (and me) use NGK B10EGV's all around. I have also run the stock 9's all around and they do ok too. Some use NGK 10.5, and still others use B11EGV's on track days. Heat range of 10 should be right about where you want to be.

Good pads and slotted rotors should be enough for now on the brakes, but if you start seeing more track duty look into RacingBrake, they have a lot of good upgrade options.

AI is sounding more and more like a MUST on any tuned (or really any) rotary. howard has given some great information on this recently. SO much to think about.

Good luck on the build, it sounds like it is going great!!