I would like to make some of the FEED type the problem may be competing with the chinese made copies in cost.
Anyone have a strong opinion about FEED type mount vs. strut brace to air pump mount ?

 

DAMN, why can't I get an image to post?

I click the IMG button, and paste the internet address, but it no workie?

 

If you look at the title, and first post in my thread, I was writing "damper". The funny thing is, I guess I saw "dampner" or "dampener" (as in surpress or depress), which is also used to describe the same effect, and started to type it. However, according to physics, the former term (and one I used first) is correct, while the 2 latter can also be refered to when describing aqueous absorbtion.

That brought up the question, of how much force is exerted on the ETB asked earlier, but that would depend on some other factors. Either way, you say that clamp on the side of the MC steering damper is for adjustment- I thought it was to hold it in place... Anyway, what is that stopper-like piece at the end of the damper for (I'm not familiar with bikes at all)? I will try to find a link to what the Japanese have done to these MC steering dampers, in order to use them in vehicles.

RonKMiller,
The pic you posted does not work. BTW, there is no such thing as ghetto FD mods....just creative engineering approaches, for the purpose of cutting *business* expenses.

 

The clamp is for adjustment in positioning the damper unit so that you are able to use its full range of motion for the bike's steering from lock to lock (obviously critical for proper function and performance). Depending on the mounting method, some adjustment is always necessary, thus the need for the ability to slide the damper unit in either direction at one mounting point.

The "stopper-like piece at the end" is the adjustment **** for the damping force of the unit. Most use a needle/seat valve to control the oil flow through the orifice (and thus damping force); the needle is attached to a threaded pin that runs through the damper shaft. Turning it clockwise moves the needle closer to the seat, increasing damping stiffness.

You got that **** right...

 

Jason,

Why don't you sell Garfinkle's brace and make some money off it?

It is a very good piece.

 

Some of you guys would die if you sat in my car. I have a solid engine torque brace(rear stut tower bar shortened, and custom aluminium mounts). I also have aluminium motor mounts, solid tranny brace, and washers welded over the diff mounts. Can't forget about the trailing arms and toe links. Yes, this is my daily driver! Well, at least when I don't have it in the shop changing something else.

When it had a bridge ported motor in it, you could see the car shaking from 20 ft. away.

 

Any Engine Brace that gives more then a ENGINE MOUNT is Useless IMHO. What would then be the point? Solid is OK, but Viabrates. The FEED or that style is a good alternative since it gives a littl so it wont viabrate, but it also provides as a good brace.

 

OOOPS double post

 

The holes to mount the damper are not dilled yet on the prototype mounting brackets.

The 2nd picture shows the damper.

The outside casing for the damper and the brackets are all made of 6061 T6 aluminum. All the mounting nuts and bolts will be in stainless steel.

Pricing should be around $200-225.

Chuck Huang

 

Kento,
Thanks for the info. This link makes a brief mention about the steering damper, being used as a brace. You can see a picture on the far right, but it is very small. Browsing japanese sites would prove difficult to find exactly what they did, but we'll see.

http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/powrbar.htm

How did the car drive though (as in feedback to the driver)? I know a few guys who have solid motor mounts, but I couldn't imagine doing that...much less as far as you took it. Didn't the effect of stabalizing the drivetrain get cancelled out since the car itself was shaking so much?

rotaryextreme,
That looks rather nice. Do you know when they will be offered for sale? It looks a bit more sturdy than the other units, and just as good as the feed unit (thankfully, minus the green...).

 

Chuck,

What are you using to actually dampen the exerted forces? (I can't tell from the pic you provided). It doesn't look like yours will be filled w/ a fluid/oil. Rather it looks there will be a bushing of some sort (the black part of the rod). Am I correct?

 

Looks like a polyurethane bushing (the black portion attached to the damper shaft in the second photo).

 

bumpage, because I'd like to hear Chuck's reply on the prototype damper, and this thread is getting buried by some pretty inane threads....

 

The black part is the shock.

Chuck Huang

 

I dont believe the FEED has any dampening at all, it just looks like it does. Its actually all metal inside. This is according to a friend of mine that took his apart. Dont know for sure that they are all like that but his was supposedly an authentic FEED so I'd imagine they are all like that

STEPHEN

 

I guess the key question is, what kind of forces are generated by the engine twisting on it's mounts at WFO from first gear?

a little oil filled motorcycle steering damper ain't gonna do jack, that's for sure

 

Yep, that is what one would have to measure, and what I was trying to determine before.

Did you see the link where one was used? I'm wondering how it was adapted to be effective (again, depends on the force applied, and how strong the steering damper is). According to you and Kento, -by itself- it's very ineffective. How much pressure can a MC steering brace withstand/dampen, and when do most of these forces occur (when riding)? I'm asking because I imagine off road bikes would need stiffer, more durable units.

I've been doing some reading on the dampers (Scott's), and adjustment, and among those, found this link:
http://trackjunkie.com/features/arti...2/0302_002.htm

 

Kent would have to take a shot at how much force is generated during a tank slapper on a bike

all I can say is, it feels like being shaken around like a rag doll....it doesn't take much force to upset the balance of a 400 lb motorcycle

 

I'm not familiar with the term "tank slapper". What is that?

 

just my 2 cents, ... if you upgrade your motor mounts you will no longer need a t-brace.... i was going to get a t-brace and upgrade the mounts, but after doing the DIY urehtane mounts my engine does not move at all...no need for a t-brace and no worries about putting force on the area that was not designed for it.

here is the thread of the DIY mounts:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ghlight=mounts

 

I'm not familiar with the term "tank slapper". What is that?

temporary uncontrolled oscillation of the handlebars....at high speed it scares the crap out of you....

it's what your little gizmos on p. 1 are designed to prevent, but they are often used by squids as a "band aid" for poor suspension set-up

 

just my 2 cents, ... if you upgrade your motor mounts you will no longer need a t-brace.... i was going to get a t-brace and upgrade the mounts, but after doing the DIY urehtane mounts my engine does not move at all...no need for a t-brace and no worries about putting force on the area that was not designed for it.

I agree that is probably the best solution....prevent the drivetrain from twisting in the first place

 

damian,

My motor mounts are relatively new, so the brace is being taken as a measure to preserve those mounts etc (for now at least). You make a good point though, and after reading that thread, I believe I will look into some urethane motor mounts down the line- the best part being I can make them myself. At the end of the thread, you posted some updates on the feel/vibration with the mounts, are they still accurate? https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...s&pagenumber=4

Thanks for the heads-up.

 

You know what cracks me up? I've got a NON-ADJUSTABLE steering damper on my 2002 BMWK1200 LTC.

Why the hell would BMW put a steering damper on a motor home, especially since they are so fond of patting themselves on the back regarding handling and suspension on a bike that has been around since 1999? And is driven by old farts like me? (although I will admit to some 90 mph canyon runs without passenger or luggage to slow me down -there's NOTHING like taking an 800 lb. scooter through the twisties)

One word: LAWYERS.

 

Damned if I can figure out why someone would pay $200 for what amounts to a 3rd motor mount installed in a position that was NEVER designed for it. Give the Mazda engineers some credit. Even if they did blow it on a few points......