If you keep pushing on the clutch pedal with the slave cylinder unbolted you will push the piston right out of the slave cylinder and lose all the fluid out of your master cylinder.

 

so really all i need to go is completely beed the fluid out and re-fill it all with new fluid?

 

well now that you have been pressing on the pedal you should check the slave cylinder to make sure the piston assembly hasn't popped out and is still going to work. Don't do anything else with the clutch until you have the slave bolted in place. Use the same logic that you would use when changing your pads. You wouldn't stomp on your brakes while your calipers are off right?

 

Right, good news everyone, I have got the clutch pedel sorted and all the engine back together and it looks neat n tidy, thanks to all the help i have had from the guy's on this forum and from Hurley Engineering. But there is a ikle proble that i can work out, I put oil in the car as you would don before starting the car, thats all good. But, when i was putting coolant in the car it was leaking out of a threaded hole on the side of the engine, on the section between the rotor housing? does anyone know what should be there, i have been trying to frind out but i cant work it out, they only thing i can think of is a bolt or sumthing to plug it? or have i put the engine upside down? what do you lot think?

Thanks Again

 

There is a small bolt that goes there. 10x1.5, i think -

 

if its on the driver side right above oil pan lip on the middle housing, then its the main coolant drain plug you need. This is where you drain the coolant from the block is at. Just replace the bolt and you should be fine.

 

Well that part of the engine is on my passenger side, cos im for the UK. But thats the spot were it is leaking from. I have just noticed a spare earth wire close by aswell, can that be bolted to the same place? or is there an alternative place to bolt that?

Thanks again

 

go forward of that coolant bolt, in front of the front rotor. There should be 2 tapped holes which work well for a ground/earth.

 

Well, im now on the final hurdle, im currently trying to get the air out of the coolant, but no matter how much i put in it just seeps out the ast and the coolant dial is showing as nothing with the red light on and making the coolant warning beep?

 

I'm not sure I understand but I'll give it a shot. The AST cap should have a pressure reading on it (.9 bar or 1.3 bar) depending on what pressure your running. The cap for the filler neck (by the air pump) doens't have a pressure reading on it nor does it have any spring or secondary seal. If you have the wrong cap on the AST then you are pouring coolant right into the resivoir. You need to remove the hose on top of the TB next to the firewall and some how support it to it's highest point. pour coolant into the filler neck (right cap on the AST) till coolant comes out of the TB pipe (where you unhooked the hose from) You'll need to put a temp cap on the TB, now squeese th radiator hose and release (not too hard or fast) add coolant to the filler neck and repeat (eventually coolant will come out of the hose you have supported, when it solid coolant then you've done the best you can at getting the air out. Hook the hose back up to the TB top off the AST, replace correct cap, top off filler neck, crank carup and if you like short trip around the block, but make sure the car comes up to operating temperature. If it's now late, go ahead and park the car for the evening, check fluid level in the morning and top off as necessary. You'll need to monitor it over the period of the next couple days of driving, level should stabilize and always be at the top of the filler neck. I hope you have taken into account the heating system and have had it turned onto max heat so as to make sure you don't reintroduce air into the system the first time you go to use the heat. I hope this helped some, Jack