Well I tried a bit of searching and came up dry, I don't have any manuals and lucky me it's a hell of a drive to get one. So I'm basically looking for pointers to removing the engine, I've got a bit of a time limit so I want to make this over with quickly lol.
I would like to pull just the motor itself and leave behind the transmission, but the first struggle I appear to be having is removing the DP, and horray one bolt is broken from a previous owner...more so the bolt from the top side is giving me troubles. (can I leave the DP attached?) Also should I try and keep all the vacuum lines labled to the ports they came from, or not worry about them and use schematics when its time to go in and all lines are replaced?
I'm pretty **** about keeping everything organized and neat, plastic bags with all labled bolts ect, so I figure I'm good there.
Any spare information or pointers really is all I'm looking for just to make it a little easier, I will most likely be the only person working on this so it might make things a little harder if I do need a hand with something.

Also if anyone knows of a step by step internet write up that would be awesome

Thanks again!

 

How-to's: http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3rdgen/techmenu.html

FSM's: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-archives-73/tech-manual-directory-614824/

 

I gotta do this soon also..

:P

You should definately use masking tape and label the vacume hoses.. there are soo many of them.

 

fantastic! Thank you sir

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...engine+removal

For Manuals {in stickys):
http://www.wrex-racing.com/web/fd/info.htm

To disengage clutch (also in stickys):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU

I prefer to remove just the engine. Requires an engine hoise with a leveler and at least two guys when your re-installing...one to spot and guide, to make sure you getting the input shaft lined up properly. A lift really makes it easier.

 

^^ extremely helpfull and useful website.. thankyou very much

 

Remove the secondary intake tube, and remove the ypipe and hte top down pipe bolts are easily accessible.

Remove the slave cylinder, 2 12mm headed bolts, Remove the starter(2 14mm headed bolts), remove the other 5 trans to engine bolts(14mm headed bolts). Release the wedge collar thru one of the inspection holes on the trans, undo the motor mount bolts(bottom of subframe, should be 14mm headed bolts, disconnect the 4 connectors for the transmission harness. That should be the things you need to disconnect the engine from the trans, remember to support the transmission as you are pulling the engine away from it.

Obviously there is a lot more to an engine removal but that should get you moving in the right direction. Let us know if you have any other questoins.

David

 

www.rotaryaviation.com has two dvds that you might find helpful. One is R&R of the rotary and the second is a rebuild. I own both of these and they are great!!! I've R&R 4 motors with one and rebuild 2 motors with the other. I've put 30k one my first rebuild and it's still running. They are well worth around 25 each plus shipping.

 

I followed the Rotary Resurrection instructions and had no trouble. It helped to have an extra hand for when we were detaching the transmission from the PPF, since the PPF studs had to be guided off of the PPF while also lifting out the engine. One person can probably manage this well with an extra jack to lift the PPF up as the transmission tail drops down.

Dave

 

engine and transmission should be out pretty soon here, that rotary resurrection is an excellent guide!

 

taking pictures and labeling everything helps. this will save you time in putting things back together.

 

^Yes.

And sorry for the duplication in my earlier post. I got side-tracked while replying.

 

I pulled the dp when we started cranking it out, motor and transmission are out of the car, I guess tomorrow I can rip it all apart and take a good look at the damage lol

 

I would've left the transmission in the car. That's what I did. I would keep all the vacuums in the rats nest in tact and I would take pictures of the vacuums and fuel lines after you get the UIM off. For the clutch ring make sure you take off the starter and the slave cylinder, that's the only way i could get the clutch ring to push in easily. idk if it's true for all.