I didn't know your problem was that bad. You must have severe rpm drop when appliances are turned on. I don't think the PFC will solve this. There was similar problems posted here before I believe, you may want to do a search.

 

nah i know the pfc wont solve this cause the car was normal before..and my rpms are fine at idle..but for some reason, when driving, it seems like im getting fuel cut or the plugs arent firing when i have the headlights on..

and i know it has something to do with my a/f gauge cause thats the only thing that was touched last and the only thing that acts funny when my headlights are on or off..

 

Are you sure dont dont have a short somewhere or something becouse I think that might couse your problem like if theres a live vire touching your chassis or osmething olong those lines. Just a thout tho.

P.S. How much would a PFC cost me and were I can get the best one, becouse I am having the 3k rpm hesitation deal with mine.

 

I think you can buy it for 1200 new

Theres one in the buy/sell section for 780 shipped pfc + commander.

 

i prob do or maybe the ground wire is fried or something, i have to look..im almost 100% certain it has something to do with the wiring of my a/f gauge..im most likely gonna uninstall that gauge as a whole..

 

Remember the wiring in our cars is up to 13 years old now. Lots of time to degrade, and if you start flexing the underhood cables anything can and does happen! Did you mess with the O2 connection on the sensor? If so, it's probably oxydized and poorly connected. Clean it off, and make sure it fits tightly. It's possible your gauge is interfering with the computer by introducing noise on the O2 sensor line. Disconnect the gauge and see if the problem goes away.

 

i didnt mess with the connection of the o2 sensor itself but i did move my a/f gauge from the bottom opening of the apillar pod to the very top..so maybe i stretched and disturbed one of the wires..it sucks because i did this in early spring and i havent experienced any problem..now i experienced it when i started to use my headlights again..

 

make sure that no paint is around the metal were the ground is going to go, or rust. the paint can disturb the path of return. hope this helps GOD bless

 

I got me some 2 g wire and conected it to the batery ground now it runs without any hesitation what so ever I am so thrilled and it only cost me about 5 bucks . Now the car starts a lot quiker and runs a hell of a lot smoother .

 

yeah im going to autozone tomorrow for some ground wire. then im gonna start diagnosing the problem starting monday since its gonna be sunny from monday-thursday

i read that people have been using 4 gauge wire..i know 2 gauge is thicker..is 4 gauge sufficient enough? or just be safe and do the grounds with 2g??

 

I got the 2g just becouse they didnt have anything smaller plus the ends for the wire that I got were for 2g so I am not complaining now atleast I know for sure that my battery is transfering all the ground it can to the chassis not I just need to get a hold of a good grounding kit and I am set .

P.S. the funny thing is that I hucked the wire to my headlight bracket becouse that was the closest place I could find now the left headlight is shining white and the right one looks a little yellowish .

 

ok i got some 4 gauge wire, they already came precut so i bought an 18 incher and 24 incher for now..

im thinking the 18 incher from the alternator body to the driver side frame by the strut tower..is that good enough?

and for the 24 incher, ill prob do another uim to body?? what do you guys think?

and is it worth it adding another ground to the battery? (my battery is relocated in my storage bin)..

 

If your battery is grounded to the chassis I would think you would need onether ground but if you have it grounded to the wire that is original under the hood then yes I would ground it again just to be safe. I am grounding my 1 gen tomorow since Im off all other days I have to work.

 

Plus I have noticed A very big difference in drivability on my 3 gen it is a lot smoother and puls a lot nicer I love it.

 

ok guys, i added 2 4 gauge ground wires..one from the alt bracket to the frame by the strut tower..then another from the uim to the frame by the intake pipes..

but i get the same problem..the car jerks when my headlights are on..only when they are on..however i did notice my car smooth as hell when going wot with my headlights off of course..

like it really makes a difference, i know its not my imagination, it does feel more smooth..

but what about this problem? i havent checked my a/f gauge connection, maybe thats screwed up..should i just uninstall this gauge as a whole anyway?? do you think that will solve the problem? im gonna put in a wideband soon anyway..