Im not telling anyone how to break in there motor. But zinx and i were tunned at the same time and i didnt have time to break in the motor so it was heat cycled about 5 times in the parking lot and on to the dyno with all new internals. Then i went to the track with about 600 miles, and on 20 lbs went 10.87 the third run of the day. And with 2000.00 miles at the end of the season i went 10.90 on the third run with not the best 60 ft time. But as was stated it was clearnced and balanced. I think its more how its built than the length of the break in.

 

thanks for the input fellas. the only thing new on my motor is the rotor housings. Do you think Ill be alright with little break-in time?

 

heck im going to be driving mine around here soon and keeping revs around 4K for 400-500 miles then change the oil and then granny drive it for another 400-500 then take it for a tune! :-) rich helped me with that!

 

Reguardles of how you break it in i would change oil and filter soon after start up and again at about 500 miles, oils cheap.

 

also, if you can, cut the filter open and look through it for copper.

 

while we're on the debate of break-in.....
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I've always followed this method during my bike and piston car days with good success and I have yet to find a reason why it wouldn't be applicable to Rotaries. I've always been intrigued as to why so many reputable builders were so adament about long break-ins.

I don't believe the gears or bearings need "break in", but what about the apex seal springs? Do they change pressure/sensitivity/position over time or are they good to go right away?