thanks lol

 

any instructions on how im gunna imply a relay to this setup?

 

i did this on saturday, with the TPDT switch, and for some reason it didn't work for me. It doesn't matter if the switch was on the sequential or non-seq my car just wanted to stall as soon as i hit throttle. IT didn't produce any boost at all.

I don't know if it has something to do with my PFS PMS ecu or the fact that i have 94 fd.
Also the coloring of the wires didn't match the ones posted on the site

Any ideas why didn't work on my car?
Thanks

 

I had this same problem (see my above post). Try reseting the computer and make sure that it is in the sequential mode when you start it. Then give it a shot.

Also, there is no reason why the wires should not match. Are you SURE that you were looking at the right ones?

 

i have noticed that on 94s some of the wires are different colors. however they should all still be in the same positions in the plugs.

cmartinp: wire it up just like the page says except substitute the relay for the switch. then wire a SPST switch to the relays coil to turn it on.

 

well, I did reset the ecu, I mean i unplugged the battery every time i did this and i held break for like 30 sec or so. Anyway, the problem that i came up with is that the wire where is suppose to be pink with silver stripes i had blue with black stripes. It looks like they were switched around. I still did the way it showed on diagram. I didn't even care if the colors match or not. And that's the problem i got. Also it was in the sequential mode when i turned it on. When i switched to non-seq, i can hear like something in the engine bay closing and opening but still no boost.

 

With my Power FC, to reset it I need to pull all the harnesses out of it for a bit. The standard method from the book doesn't work, not sure about the PFS PMS though.

 

Did you go by the diagram, or the wire colors? I think the diagram might be wrong

 

i went by the diagram

I also emailed the guy that made that website and he said that maybe it's because i have PFS ecu.

 

I have the exact same problem. The computer goes into limp mode. Anyone else solved this?

 

the solution is to start it in seq mode. if you accidentally cause it to go into limp mode, shutting the car off and turning it back on in the correct mode a couple times should fix it. the ecu is going into limp mode because it thinks the solenoids are broken because the switch has disconnected them from the ecu.

 

Yep, that's what happens. Need to leave the car in sequential before you turn it off. I haven't come up with a solution yet.

Gene

 

Nope, diagram isn't wrong. Dozens of people have done this mod, including myself, with no problems. ECU pinout are the same for 93-95, BTW (otherwise, our OEM and aftermarket ECUs woud be year specific from 93-95).

The wire colors my differ by model year, however.

Gene

 

Gene, did you ever find a way to stop from going into limp mode if you accidently leave it in non-sequential?

Shane

 

Unfortunately, no. I shelved it after pursuing single T.

Gene

 

So the limp mode means, No boost what so ever, and if you try to accelarate it just wants to stop and backfires. It's like driving an n/a that has busted fuel injectors.

 

ok i came up with this way to avoid limp mode. you have to use 2, 3 pole double throw relays. the good news is that now you can use a single pole switch and some 4 pole relays which are all much more common.

relay one is setup to switch the wires from the ecu from the other relay, to 3 500 ohm resistors which are connected to +12v.

relay 2 is setup to switch the wires from the solenoids to either the other relay (as mentioned above) or to the +12 and ground lines like the standard mod as explained before.

the relays are always actuated together. they should be setup so in one position the connection goes from the ecu straight through both relays to the solenoids.

i hope you guys can read electronic schematics:

 

Good job!

 

I can't read electronic schematics I do understand some of it though.

 

gfelber maybe you should archive this on your site. please at least give me credit this time.

 

i put up a writeup for my new nonseq mod on http://www.lighter.net/technical/ . gfelber i hope you dont mind me stealing most of your writeup, im really bad at explaining things simply. i linked your site at the top.

this new nonseq mod should eliminate the limp mode. you can turn your car on in either seq mode.

 

i am in avionics and the best swtichs you can gwt will be aircraft ones. so did you guys ahve to have 2 maps or jsut 1 ?
joel

 

Nice writeup. But are you sure you really need relay #2? It looks like all it does is switch in the resistors so that the ECU stays happy. Couldn't you just connect the resistors to the ECU leads (bottom) unswitched, and then eliminate relay #2? Yes, the resistors would be in the circuit when relay #1 was not energized, but that should only add 10% to the current the ECU has to handle.

Feel free to flame me if I've missed something important.

 

there would probably not be enough current to activate the relay like that. interesting idea though assuming the ecu can handle the increased current draw. mike smith fried an ecu a couple years ago working on this.

 

That was just confusing to me.

The resistors have nothing to do with activating the relays. The relays are activated by the switch. The resistors just supply voltage to the ECU so that the ECU will think the solenoids are still connected, thus preventing it from throwing an error code.

Another nit: the write up specifies 12 volt relays, but in the circuit diagram they are connected in series, which means that each relay is actually only supplied with 6 volts (assuming they are identical). It would be better to connect the relay coils in parallel.

I can also contribute that I have used a 1k ohm resistor to fool the ECU when my wastegate solenoid was disconnected. Using 1k ohm resistors would put even less load on the ECU than using 300 ohm resistors.