miatrx

I finally finished the reman install that has eaten a lot of time for the last week. The engine runs fine, but there are problems. When I start the car I have no tach, no water temp, no odometer, and my oil pressure goes to the top. The oil pressure stays high while the engine runs and after I turn the engine off it gradually settles to the middle of its range of travel. Before I start, with the key in the run position I see odometer and the warning lights come on as usual. I guess I hooked up something wrong or I have a pinched wire in the harness. I am concerned about the connections at the ecu. I have the 4 connectors into the back of the ecu, but I have a couple left over that I can not find anything to attach to. There is a white male connector that branches off of the harness just as the harness comes through the firewall. There is also a black male spade connector that branches off nearer the ecu connectors. What do these go to? I suspect this will be related to my problem, but I can't find any unuxed connectors.

Also throwing a code 23, fuel temp sesnor.

Thanks if you can help!
Tom

CantGoStraight

One problem, sounds like you have the water temp and fuel temp connectors reversed. There both the same color and plug in to the same type probe (temp) but they need to be switched. There the ones (one of them is on the back of the thermostat housing) (the othe is on the fuel rail) swap these and that should take care of the code. You gauges is kinda wierd do you have a good ground between the motor and the chasis and the chasis and the battery ??? The one black spade by the ECU sounds like it may be the fan mod connector and I believe I have one spare (white) connector as well. I have two wires to solder up today so I'll double check.

suprfast93

I had almost the same problem when i put my new engine in. With the key on the odometer would lite up, but as soon as you start it it would go away with no speedo or tach. All it was is the white connector for the engine harnes that comes through the firewall was not hooked up. The conector for this is way up there in the dash. Just lay on youre back and reach up there you should find it. After that every thing worked fine.

miatrx

Right on the money superfast93. I was looking for that white connector last night, but i guess it was so far up under the dash I just assumed I had not noticed the male end when I disassembled the harness last week. I now have all instrumentation including the correct oil pressure. No more code 23 either. I thought I had those green connectors right, but you know how it goes. Glad I dont have to take off the UIM again to swap those connectors.

CantGoStraight, Thanks for the help. I still would like a confirmation on the black male connector if you can take a look while you are in there. After losing the large white connector I still wonder if there is a connector lurking up under there for the black one.

Thanks guys. Finally I can go for a drive. (Gotta stay off the boost, GOTTA STAY OFF THE BOOST.......)
Tom

CantGoStraight

Tom,
The wire should be hanging by that little black box, and it's not a pure black wire (if I remember right) it's black with yellow and should be all by it self. That's the one you run through a switch to ground for the fan mod (one way to do it any way) if you want to try it to see just turn the key on (make sure the ac and fan for the ac is off, no parking lights, and no rear window defroster) if you ground that wire two (2) minutes later the fans come on (medium I believe) leave it grounded for at least 10 to 15 seconds after the key is turned off fans should drop to low speed. They should stay on for ten minutes after the wire is ungrounded with the key off. If you disconnect the wire too soon (before 10 to 15 seconds) the fans will turn off right away. Any way if you found the white connector the black one can only be the fan test lead. Jack

miatrx

Jack

Thanks for the info on the black connector. The fan mod will be a good thing to play with now that the car is running right.

Tom