Over the last few months, gradually my girlfriend's automatic 93' FD
has been having gremlins.
The first thing to go was the odometer display, sometimes it's on, sometimes it's off, sometimes the backlight is on, sometimes not.
The next thing that started happening recently was that the hold light on the speedometer started flashing and the check engine light comes on.
We read on here that this is indicative of the transmission computer sending signals which are indicated by the hold light.
The car is running fine, fluid levels are ok and tempeture is perfect.
We were worried that there might be something hidden mechanically wrong with the car, but then the next thing happened.
A few days ago, the speedometer itself stopped working.

At this point I suspect electrical gremlins, we've had a long history of electrical trouble with her car, a previous owner decided that they wanted to wire in a remote starter, and we've had trouble with the fusing in that as well.

Has anyone had similar experiences that is able to offer some advice?
Thanks
- TW

 

Check the ground on the dashboard.

Next, try pulling the error codes from the ECU. Open the engine hood, locate the diagnostic module (next to battery) using a paper clip, short on terminal #10 and ground.

Turn on engine switch (do not start) and read the flashing code. It will start with a long pause, then either followed by quick flashes or long flash. It repeats itself

The quick flashes represent 1, long flash = 10

go to section K-217 on the manual for description of codes.

 

Are you running a Amp for subs or speakers? I'll never run a amp in a sports car. I've noticed when i had a high output amp for my subs in my sedan, i noticed my headlights would dim when the bass hits. I also had a problem with how my aftermarket alarm was hooked up when i had a automatic FD. The installer just found a 12 volt supply and tapped into it. Well he tapped into my tranny ecu and it caused my car from going into overdrive. I took my mechanic 4 hours to find it, and he cut my alarm wiring and everything was good. Cost alot of money, but it was weird it was fine for a year or so, then it acted up. If you have any aftermarket stuff, it might be tapped into something else and robbing it's power. I won't let anyone tap into anything, needs to be hooked straight to the battery, I couldn't imagine if they tapped into the fuel pump and took voltage away from that, it could cause it not to flow enough, then you would run lean and then knock a new motor is needed. GL with your electrical nightmares, they are the hardest to find.

 

Had a similar problem with an aftermarket alarm w/remote start installed incorrectly years ago. Some of the wiring was shotty and was causing your so called gremlins. Best answer and easiest answer (although not the most cost effective) is to get a new main dash harness and get ride of the remote starter. Thats if you've got the money.
New dash harness = no electrical problems.
First run a diagnostic, as said, before going with the harness.
It may be the comp.
good luck

 

Hmm.. It doesn't have any aftermarket audio, that stuff will be coming after I get the electrical problems worked out.
At the nearest opportunity I'll try to do the diagnostic that was recommended and look up any resultant codes.
I'll start pricing out a main dash harness too, for some reason I doubt this stuff will stop happening.
At first, when it was just the odometer going on and off for a while I thought it might be the electrolytic capacitors in the cluster like in one of the threads I searched that seemed to be a common problem, so hopefully this will not be the case.
Well, wish me luck.
-TW