Rx-7$4$me

which do you all think are the best for autocrossing, look the best, best handeling improvments etc are for the FD? anyone have pics of their setup? I want to purchase one of these sets within the next few days. Does the m2 and H&R work with the stock struts? any feedback comments welcome please!

Stevo

martini

any of those will be good choices..

Personally, I would go with the H&Rs, and that's not just because they are one of my sponsors, and I have good friends that work there.

Yes, they will work with stock struts, but it's not advisable.

RX7Elmo

look would be racing beat since they drop the rear more than the front. my car looks jacked with the eibachs. H&Rs are something that i would prefer personally.

danny

MAESTRUL

H&R no question. One and a half inch drop NICE!!!
They are specificaly designed to work with stock shocks.
Ask SleepR1 he'll tell you the same thing.
DAN

mako

iTrader: (5)

I will have a used set of H&R springs forsale after this weekend $160 shipped.

I liked them, but i just got a set of hks coilovers and wont need the springs anymore. let me know if your interested.

thanks,
James
mako@nationwide.net

93 mb

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

The Racing Beats are the Best for Auto Crossing, they are the only ones that are linear and not progressive.
I also think they look the best, because they bring the jacked in the back look down. They also don't lower the front as much as the others.

DomFD3S

I would choose either the Eibachs or H&R. The H&Rs are still made in Germany while the Eibachs are now made in Mexico (this is from what I have heard...haven't called Eibach or H&R to verify).

rynberg

They are designed to work with stock R-model shocks, not the base/touring shocks.

RB seems to be the best for auto-crossing, the others will do better for road racing or street driving. Also, the RB will probably ride the hardest.

Jason

iTrader: (5)

M2's are the best for autoX.

Jason
www.rx7store.net

Rx-7$4$me

ok first off. idiot question... I Thought autoxing and road racing were the same thing? also, what is the lowering on the H&R's and Eibachs? also whats the spring rates? I want the HARDEST ride. hehehe

STevo

Rx-7$4$me

oh and whats the difference between linear and progressive? thanks alot. STevo

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I hate to quote JoeD, but there are the lowering numbers.

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

Aren't M2, just Ground Controlls?

yy4u

If you want a stiff ride, don't get the RB's they are only very slightly stiffer than the stock ones, I switched from RB to eibach. But if you want something really stiff, the M2 might be your best bet, from what i understand their spring rates are in the ~500 range, much hihger than some of the others, but won't be very comfy on the street.

just my $0.02, do some research, jason has a lot of info on his website and h&r, eibach, and m2 all provide good info on their sites.

cartervs

I went with the Eibachs... Billstien HD's, and HKS "purple sway bars.. with the "Widefoot " front bar mounts...very nice piece!!! Awaiting return from paint shop with fresh paint as well as suspension mods... Stock FD3's were tested at .95 G's....wonder what i will pull on pad now???? Good luck... i chose the Eibachs because of the progressive design of spring compression.... Billstien's of self adjusting feature and durability and bars and mounts because i drive as hard on street ( up and down the coast) as i can.... Carter

SilvioRX7

I have H&Rs on mine with stock struts. My shiet is slammed!!! But it looks bad a$$

matwey

I have the Racing Beat w/ Tokiko 5 way shocks. VERY harsh ride, but handles great! Only problems is with the front end lowered my front left tire rubs the fender well. I am running stock wheels and stock size tires. The big problem is that the main wiring harness is under there! If you go too big a tire or wheel you can rip it out..... happened to Peter Farrell while attempting Pikes Peak Hill Climb a few years ago. I've had this setup over 4 years and no problems except a hole in my plastic fender cover.... just be aware.

Rx-7$4$me

so whats the difference between linear and progressive? Im thinking im gonna go with the H&R's at this point... what do u all think? I have a black 93 with no spoiler. it looks mean as it is, and when its lowered it will look meaner.

Rx-7$4$me

so whats the difference between progressive and linear. Road racing and autoxing, and can these be installed by yourself? I mean, im 17, ive installed my apexi intake, boost gauge, downpipe ( took 3 days, had to take a torch to that ******, 150 pound impact wrench didnt do ****), taken apart the engine a few times hehe, ummm some body work, brake jobs lots of stuff, but ive never worked with suspension.....

Stevo

artowar2

Linear vs. Progressive Springs: Per unit of compression, linear springs require the same amount of force to compress, while progressive springs require an increasing amount of force to compress. For example, a linear spring may take 200 lbs to compress 1 inch, and another 200 lbs to compress another inch. But a progressive spring could take 200 lbs to compress the first inch, and 250 lbs to compress the second inch.

Road Racing vs. Autocross: Road racing generally refers to wheel-to-wheel racing against other cars at the same time on a paved track (e.g., Formula 1 racing, or CART racing, except at the oval tracks). Not usually used to refer to racing on ovals (e.g., IRL races or televised NASCAR races). Think of road racing= racing against other cars on a closed paved course with lots of turns.

In fact, using the term "racing" generally means competing against other drivers and/or against a clock simultaneously. And from your posts, I'll guess that isn't what you want to start out doing. Instead, it sounds like you are probably interested in some type of driving school or lapping event at a racetrack. Basic driving schools (and sometimes lapping events) include instruction on how to drive fast, and time on the track to practice what you've learned. Any "competition" is with yourself, but not against other drivers or the clock (at least not officially). If you can afford the time and money, a Russell or Barber or Bondurant school (look in the back of C&D) is the high-end ticket to driving schools. But smaller, regional groups and car clubs offer driving schools, and instructional events all over the country.

Autocross generally refers to driving one car at a time, through a set course of pylons in a large parking lot or similar area, where drivers compete to be the fastest through the course.

Since you didn't ask my advice is to try autocrossing, which is cheap and easy to find around a major city. If you like it, try a driving school at a race track where you bring your own car. Leave the suspension alone and enjoy the car as it is for now. Assuming your shocks and bushings are in good shape, a stock FD is one of the best handling production cars ever made, and you will hit your limits as a driver before hitting the car's limits. If you get bit by the go-fast-crack-pipe, then work on the suspension next year...

93redFD

is anybody running H&Rs on base model struts??? btw is there a diff between struts and shocks??

cartervs

Suspensio work is .... just R&R.... with your experience you can do it easly...

White94RX

I plan on getting springs in the next few weeks. I don't have the money for struts. I want to get Eibach's for the 1" drop front/rear. Can I expect a rough ride?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Not at first, once they settle in, yes.

93redFD

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