EGI fuse blows when key is in "ON" position.
08-26-03, 02:34 AM
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EGI fuse blows when key is in "ON" position.
Hi guys,
It seems I am having problems with my EGI fuse blowing out. I have searched the entire forum for the words "EGI FUSE" and I have found likely sourece for the fuse blow-out.
It sems that a short is the likely cause for the EGI blowing out, but I just wanted to tell you all about a few things I've noticed about the car. I wanted to know if these things may help to find out what is causing the short. Just recently I installed a new M2 stg III ECU and M2 DP. I dont think the new ECU is the cause of the problems, but I will swap back to my stock ECU anyways. I think there may be a short in the ECU harness itself, so that rules out the M2 ECU.
Here are some things that I have noticed about the car over the past month:
-fuel gauge is not accurate anymore, it was good when I first got the car 6 months ago...(possible gauge ground problem)
-during a hard run, car would seem like it was 'out of breath' at higher RPMs. Plugs were replaced with 7's and 9's 2-3K miles ago.
-short wire going from battery positive to FD02 fuse box was loose. Tightened it down, and puit key to ON position but did not crank motor---EGI fuse blew.
-some oil leaking on plugs--dont think it is the problem
-ECU harness--some wires were soldered--possible problem?
EDIT: also forgot to mention that ALL the fuses in the fuse box next to the clutch pedal are ok. Same thing for the FD01 and FD02 fuse box. The EGI is the only one that keeps blowing.
Do you guys think it matters that I didn't have a 30A fuse in the HEAD or RETRACTOR slots in the FD-02 fuse box?
It seems I am having problems with my EGI fuse blowing out. I have searched the entire forum for the words "EGI FUSE" and I have found likely sourece for the fuse blow-out.
It sems that a short is the likely cause for the EGI blowing out, but I just wanted to tell you all about a few things I've noticed about the car. I wanted to know if these things may help to find out what is causing the short. Just recently I installed a new M2 stg III ECU and M2 DP. I dont think the new ECU is the cause of the problems, but I will swap back to my stock ECU anyways. I think there may be a short in the ECU harness itself, so that rules out the M2 ECU.
Here are some things that I have noticed about the car over the past month:
-fuel gauge is not accurate anymore, it was good when I first got the car 6 months ago...(possible gauge ground problem)
-during a hard run, car would seem like it was 'out of breath' at higher RPMs. Plugs were replaced with 7's and 9's 2-3K miles ago.
-short wire going from battery positive to FD02 fuse box was loose. Tightened it down, and puit key to ON position but did not crank motor---EGI fuse blew.
-some oil leaking on plugs--dont think it is the problem
-ECU harness--some wires were soldered--possible problem?
EDIT: also forgot to mention that ALL the fuses in the fuse box next to the clutch pedal are ok. Same thing for the FD01 and FD02 fuse box. The EGI is the only one that keeps blowing.
Do you guys think it matters that I didn't have a 30A fuse in the HEAD or RETRACTOR slots in the FD-02 fuse box?
Last edited by ludeowner; 08-26-03 at 02:48 AM.
08-26-03, 02:38 AM
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Tomorrow I will take off the UIM and start checking the solenoids, ALT wiring, AVC and coil packs.
What all are the names of the solenoids that I should check? I got a few of the names like port air, port air bypass. But I'm not sure if those are the right ones. I'm looking at the electrical wiring diagram but I cant make out some of the solenoid names.
Do I look for frayed wiring? loose or corroded connections? other wiring or metal closeby that may cause an arc?
keep in mind that the fuse blew when I only put the key in the ON position, I did not even crank it. Should I ge a voltmeter to check for current through the wires? If so could someone give me a brief explanation on how to use a voltmeter?
Anyways if you guys can offer any input I would appreciated it.
Thanks
What all are the names of the solenoids that I should check? I got a few of the names like port air, port air bypass. But I'm not sure if those are the right ones. I'm looking at the electrical wiring diagram but I cant make out some of the solenoid names.
Do I look for frayed wiring? loose or corroded connections? other wiring or metal closeby that may cause an arc?
keep in mind that the fuse blew when I only put the key in the ON position, I did not even crank it. Should I ge a voltmeter to check for current through the wires? If so could someone give me a brief explanation on how to use a voltmeter?
Anyways if you guys can offer any input I would appreciated it.
Thanks
08-26-03, 03:38 AM
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Ok guys,
Here is an update on the situation...I had 4 fuses 30A fuses left, and I needed to use two of those for the HEAD and RETRACTOR fuse. That left me 2 chances to find the problem until tomorrow morning when NAPA recieves the 10 extra fuses that I ordered.
I ordered 4 fuses of differing brands, this was because NAPA only had 2 while this other nearby store also had 2. Now on to my troubleshooting process.
TIME: 3:00 PM ~normal NorCA weather ~90+ degrees
I started at the FD-02 fuse box...as stated earlier I immediately discovered a short and thick wire was loose going from the positive terminal on the battery to the FD-02 fuse box. I tightened the battery terminals, did a quick check for shorts around the FD01 and 02 fuse boxes. BEfore sticking in the fuse I did the procedures for unflodding the engine (just incase. 10 seconds cranking followed by 20 seconds cool off (X 3). Everything looks good so I pop in a 30A fuse from NAPA. put the key to the ON position, fuse blows...and I have no idea why.
Possible causes (most probable to least probable): unseen short (solenoid, ALT, etc), non-existant fuses in the HEAD and RETRACTOR slots, hot weather.
TIME: 1:00 AM ~normal NorCA weather ~60 degrees
Been researching EGI fuses for the past 5 hours. Thinking about the problems my FD has exibited over the last month along with my current problem. I had 4 fuses left, the one I used earlier was swapped over from the HEAD slot.
I was getting impatient and worried...finally I got ballsy and went ut to look at my FD. re-checked FD-02 and 01 fuse boxes as well as crew cab fuse boxes. ALL fuses are ok, except there are fuses missing from EGI, HEAD and RETRACTOR. I decided to put the two NAPA fuse into the HEAD and RETRACTOR slot. I did this because the NAPA fuses were the same exact type as the other 3 fuses that I had used to test the EGI. I used the different 30A fuse from the other store wand put that in the EGI.
Rechecked all wires, jiggled a sensor or two...ok good to go. Key in ignition put it to ACC and checked fuse, all fuses are good. Put key to ON but did not crank it...fuses still check out good. The moment I had been waiting for...clutch in, gear in first, cranked the motor and VROOOOOM!!!!!. Yes, car started...fuses still good (obviously). Got out to check exhaust smell...no smoke or odd smells.
Car was left running for 20 minutes, during which I did not drive it, but I tested out the car. Turned on fan to 4, AC on, radio on, parking lights on, flipped headlights on-off, and finally turned headlights on. Everything looks good, no abnormal idle.
One thing I did notice, was my headlights...before I could hear an audible sound when the headlights flipped up. Now the headlights flip up without making a sound. Does anyone know why? only thing I had done to the car was #1 new battery #2 tightened wire from positive terminal to FD-02 fuse box and #3 used different type 30A fuse for EGI.
It also looks like my fuel level is displaying the correct amount. I will know for sure when I go to fill up if it is good, but I think that either the tightening of the positive-FD02 wiring may have fixed it. Or maybe even The trip back on the flatbed truck may have done it. The car had to be winched ***-end first onto a flatbed truck at a 30 degree angle, so maybe taht did something?
I will start the car again in 2 hours to see if it is still ok. Then I will do it again when it gets warm out to make sure heat is not a factor. I will also be going back to NAPA to get 5 30A fuses from them and another 5 30A fuses from the other store. I always drive around with a basic 3/8" ratchet kit, but now I will also be carrying around a bag of 30A fuses as well as some leather gloves (in case I need to play with the battery).
Here is an update on the situation...I had 4 fuses 30A fuses left, and I needed to use two of those for the HEAD and RETRACTOR fuse. That left me 2 chances to find the problem until tomorrow morning when NAPA recieves the 10 extra fuses that I ordered.
I ordered 4 fuses of differing brands, this was because NAPA only had 2 while this other nearby store also had 2. Now on to my troubleshooting process.
TIME: 3:00 PM ~normal NorCA weather ~90+ degrees
I started at the FD-02 fuse box...as stated earlier I immediately discovered a short and thick wire was loose going from the positive terminal on the battery to the FD-02 fuse box. I tightened the battery terminals, did a quick check for shorts around the FD01 and 02 fuse boxes. BEfore sticking in the fuse I did the procedures for unflodding the engine (just incase. 10 seconds cranking followed by 20 seconds cool off (X 3). Everything looks good so I pop in a 30A fuse from NAPA. put the key to the ON position, fuse blows...and I have no idea why.
Possible causes (most probable to least probable): unseen short (solenoid, ALT, etc), non-existant fuses in the HEAD and RETRACTOR slots, hot weather.
TIME: 1:00 AM ~normal NorCA weather ~60 degrees
Been researching EGI fuses for the past 5 hours. Thinking about the problems my FD has exibited over the last month along with my current problem. I had 4 fuses left, the one I used earlier was swapped over from the HEAD slot.
I was getting impatient and worried...finally I got ballsy and went ut to look at my FD. re-checked FD-02 and 01 fuse boxes as well as crew cab fuse boxes. ALL fuses are ok, except there are fuses missing from EGI, HEAD and RETRACTOR. I decided to put the two NAPA fuse into the HEAD and RETRACTOR slot. I did this because the NAPA fuses were the same exact type as the other 3 fuses that I had used to test the EGI. I used the different 30A fuse from the other store wand put that in the EGI.
Rechecked all wires, jiggled a sensor or two...ok good to go. Key in ignition put it to ACC and checked fuse, all fuses are good. Put key to ON but did not crank it...fuses still check out good. The moment I had been waiting for...clutch in, gear in first, cranked the motor and VROOOOOM!!!!!. Yes, car started...fuses still good (obviously). Got out to check exhaust smell...no smoke or odd smells.
Car was left running for 20 minutes, during which I did not drive it, but I tested out the car. Turned on fan to 4, AC on, radio on, parking lights on, flipped headlights on-off, and finally turned headlights on. Everything looks good, no abnormal idle.
One thing I did notice, was my headlights...before I could hear an audible sound when the headlights flipped up. Now the headlights flip up without making a sound. Does anyone know why? only thing I had done to the car was #1 new battery #2 tightened wire from positive terminal to FD-02 fuse box and #3 used different type 30A fuse for EGI.
It also looks like my fuel level is displaying the correct amount. I will know for sure when I go to fill up if it is good, but I think that either the tightening of the positive-FD02 wiring may have fixed it. Or maybe even The trip back on the flatbed truck may have done it. The car had to be winched ***-end first onto a flatbed truck at a 30 degree angle, so maybe taht did something?
I will start the car again in 2 hours to see if it is still ok. Then I will do it again when it gets warm out to make sure heat is not a factor. I will also be going back to NAPA to get 5 30A fuses from them and another 5 30A fuses from the other store. I always drive around with a basic 3/8" ratchet kit, but now I will also be carrying around a bag of 30A fuses as well as some leather gloves (in case I need to play with the battery).
