My EGI fuse is pulling 200mA when it's plugged in. It's pulling a total of 240-250mA when I run the ammeter in series with the battery. I remove the EGI fuse and the current pull drops to around 30-40mA which is normal. It's causing my battery to drain.

My fuel pump is wired in for a constnt 13.5vdc, and the replay isn't pulling any current when the car is off. The EGI main fuse seems to be the only problem, but I can't figure out why it's constantly pulling 200mA by itself.

The fuse is also a little burnt on the bottom, so you can see that it's constantly receiving current.

The line that i drew is where the 30A relay sits to directly connect my fuel pump to the battery when the car is running. The circled EGI relay on the left is what is drawing the 200mA.

 

Well I wire tested the fuel system.. it checks out ok.

Going to start unplugging the boost controller, wideband, yada yada yada...

here we go =P

 

It seems that the EGI relay coil is energized from the ignition switch through the 15 Amp Engine fuse. With the ignition switch OFF there should be no voltage on this 15 amp fuse. Use a voltmeter to check from the fuse to a negative chassis connection. Also, try to remove this 15A fuse and see if your 200 mA read drops off. It should.

It suggest to me that when you made your wiring changes to bypass the Circuit Opening Relay contacts and run full voltage on the fuel pump you may have created a parallel path for the EGI main relay to be energized with full or partial voltage. Appears that under this scenario either the injectors or the diagnostic module are pulling that 200 mA.

Albert

Edit: on further examination of your red lines in your post you must have done something different to run the fuel pump on full voltage. Just bypassing the Circuit Opening Relay contacts will not do it. The resistor is still in the circuit as you have it drawn and the Fuel Pump Relay is still being operated by voltage through the ignition switch, the 15A Engine fuse and the 1K terminal of the ECU. I guess, when ever the ECU senses conditions for full voltage pump run, it transmits and negative signal to this 1K terminal and then the Fuel Pump Relay coil becomes energized with full batt voltage, closes the relay contacts which, bypass the resistor, giving full voltage to the Fuel Pump.

To provide full voltage to the Fuel Pump all the time you should have removed the wire from the ECU 1K terminal (or the relay) and replaced it with a solid negative. Then, when ever you turn the ignition ON you have the Fuel Pump Relay energized and the resistor bypassed.

 

I am not sure if my schematic is accurate.

The EGI fuse is pulling 200mA from somewhere.

I disconnected every single fuse inside of the car, i disconnected my ECU, my wideband, my methanol system, my twin power... still.. it was pulling current.

I tried pulling my additional 30a relay fuse for my fuel system, and my 30a fuse for the other things.

I have some relays under the dash but thats going to be a mess to start disconnecting all of those.

I can't figure it out, I had literally all the fuses pulled and something was still pulling the 200mA.

 

Only thing i can think of is disconnect every single electrical load that could possibly run through the EGI, and then hook them back up 1 by 1. Ugh.

 

Darren

Two possibilities:

Either:

1) the EGI Main Relay is stuck closed allowing current to flow through the EGI fuse. Remove relay and check with an ohm or continuity meter that there is an open circuit between contacts B1-02. It should be open when pulled from the car.

or

2) Somehow in the wiring of the fuel pump a hot wire was placed on the EGI relay coil energizing it all the time. This is what I THINK is likely. As I suggested before to comfirm this, pull the 15 A Engine fuse from Joint Box JB-04 (location is on page Z-29 of the Manual). That should drop off your 200 mA. Or you can try pulling the EGI Main Relay itself (X-02 Relay & Fuse Block) and that also should drop off the 200 mA. Either of these would comfirm that something was mis-wired making the EGI Main Relay hot all the time, when it should not be.

Albert

 

When you turn the car to the AUX position does it prime the fuel pump or are you constantly primed since you EGI fuse is doing this?

 

No my schematic is incorrect.

The pump will prime after i turn the car to the acc position.

The pump isn't always on, it's relayed from the battery and the ignition sense wires.

 

I pulled all of the relays up front (fuel pump relay, etc etc)

Still no change.

WTF?!??!

 

Darren

Just for reference purposes I climbed into the back of my car to check the currents out of my PC 680. It is located in the passenger bin compartment.

The total leakage current is 11 mA. So, you are way over with 200+ mA and it is the reason why your battery is going down all the time.

You said that with the EGI fuse pulled the your current disappears. Since you removed the EGI relay and the current was still there that leaves you with two possiblities:

1) miswired circuit

2) faulty Diagnostic Module. With the EGI relay pulled, according to the drawing, only the Diagnostic Module is in series with the fuse, therefore it is a likely cause of your drain.

You can only do things one step at a time. Try disconnecting the Diagnostic Module in a process of elimination. If current is still being drawn after that it MUST be a wrong wire somewhere, which will be harder to troubleshoot.

Albert

 

I pulled one of the connectors near it.. it's one of the two bigass grey connectors and it went away. Looks like that connector runs across the engine.. so it's probably tied in everywhere. I don't see how it's going to be possible to disconnect the whole diagnostic box.

 

Yes, it is tied into the crash sensors, the air bag module, the instrument cluster, horn relay, starter switch interlock, main fuse block through the EGI fuse. So, disconnecting it is probably not the best solution although may be a livable alternative to finding out what exactly in that module is drawing the current. You may try disconnecting it and see what works and what not. First thing to try would be the starter to see if that interlock is being monitored only or actually going through the module.

May have to replace the module to fix it.

Albert

BTW - Congrats for sticking with it. Looks like we got the current draw isolated to the Diagnostic Module. Why don't you see if you can only disconnect that single wire that comes from the EGI fuse to the module and see if any error codes or engine light comes on? Should be a W/G wire (means white/green???) and it should either be coming off of the EGI fuse or the B1-02 connector of the EGI Main Relay.

 

dhahlen, I think you owe albert a beer for this one

[GoodfellaFD3S posting under his little bro's account]

 

Hey, a cold beer sound really good just now. I'm shuffling between some yard work and the PC back and forth and it is HOT in CA right now. Still near 90F.

Albert

 

Well... I didn't find it when I had posted that.. but after doing my own investigation.. it seems I I just found the wire in a different spot. The white/green wire albert was referring to is also in the engine bay at the connector I removed. He was correct, and with his information and my hands on.. I was able to confirm the problem.

Check it out.. this white/green wire from this connector is pulling my 200mA... now the question is... Why?

 

Damn, my hawker is taking a beating... look at all the crap I have connected to it...

LOL

 

except i just started looking for it yesterday, and found it today.. turns out the main (egi) relay had been pulled out by someone and aparently they clamped it with some pliers... the cover was cracked and broken on both ends, opened it and the little tab inside was smashed against the contacts..... now i just need to find a new relay and i'm back in buisness!!!! now i just need to clean up the spaghetti under the dash and hood.....