dual digital EGTs
#52
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Sorry to bring this back up. teamrip.com has their egt probes on back order for another two weeks. I was wondering if anybody ordered one or two, and hasn't used them yet, and might possibly want to sell them?
If this is against the rules admins, please delete, sorry.
Thanks
~Tweak
If this is against the rules admins, please delete, sorry.
Thanks
~Tweak
#53
http://www.omega.com/Temperature/pdf/TC-NPT.pdf
Get the 1/8" NPT Exposed K-Type. Omega has great stuff.
Get the 1/8" NPT Exposed K-Type. Omega has great stuff.
#54
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Ok, well I got my probes installed in my manifold. But now I am a little confused on how to wire it up.
I have a haltech e11v2, and I'm not sure what I should have it under? Maybe just temperature.
Anyways, this is what I got figured out so far.... (here are some pictures)
I understand that in picture 2, battery positive and negative to do the + and -, and that the signal coming out goes to the haltech from the middle port.
I dont know how to connect the EGT to the thermocoupler. I see... R and Y, thinking .. maybe that means, r=positive on the EGT, and Y = negative?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
~Tweak
I have a haltech e11v2, and I'm not sure what I should have it under? Maybe just temperature.
Anyways, this is what I got figured out so far.... (here are some pictures)
I understand that in picture 2, battery positive and negative to do the + and -, and that the signal coming out goes to the haltech from the middle port.
I dont know how to connect the EGT to the thermocoupler. I see... R and Y, thinking .. maybe that means, r=positive on the EGT, and Y = negative?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
~Tweak
#55
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Very nice pictures there Tweak. Thanks for the valuable input of those. I was looking into this again, as it is something i want to do in the future. I saw on o2 simulator, they no longer sell that module, and pointed me to the following site
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index...roducts_id=185
They have a wonder picture there that depicts how to wire it up properly. Takes out the guessing Hope this helps you.
http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/index...roducts_id=185
They have a wonder picture there that depicts how to wire it up properly. Takes out the guessing Hope this helps you.
#56
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Hey guys, I got the ZT2 termocouple which looks the same as the teamrip ones... Anyways, I can't seem to get more then 1 Volt out of the unit. I have my AEM calabrated to do 0-5 volts where 5 volts is 990C according to the paper that comes with it.
I don't think the thermo couple is bad eaither......
BTW for the guy asking the question above you need R going to + on the thermal couple and Y going to -.
Then you need power for the little box device which is + and a ground which is - and then the center is a 0-5 output that you need to put in to the haltech. Under the paramaters of the sensor you map 0-5 volts for 990C or convert to F if it's in F.
Hope this helps
I don't think the thermo couple is bad eaither......
BTW for the guy asking the question above you need R going to + on the thermal couple and Y going to -.
Then you need power for the little box device which is + and a ground which is - and then the center is a 0-5 output that you need to put in to the haltech. Under the paramaters of the sensor you map 0-5 volts for 990C or convert to F if it's in F.
Hope this helps
#59
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hrm
this device does not work with my k-type thermocouple.... It's also now removed form the website, I have a feeling this thing doesn't work as it's supposed to... in talks with the store I bought it form to find out what the hell is going on... said it only works on RTD type sesnors.... which would mean it's listed wrong.
#60
Stay tuned...
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Hey guys, I got the ZT2 termocouple which looks the same as the teamrip ones... Anyways, I can't seem to get more then 1 Volt out of the unit. I have my AEM calabrated to do 0-5 volts where 5 volts is 990C according to the paper that comes with it.
I don't think the thermo couple is bad eaither......
BTW for the guy asking the question above you need R going to + on the thermal couple and Y going to -.
Then you need power for the little box device which is + and a ground which is - and then the center is a 0-5 output that you need to put in to the haltech. Under the paramaters of the sensor you map 0-5 volts for 990C or convert to F if it's in F.
Hope this helps
I don't think the thermo couple is bad eaither......
BTW for the guy asking the question above you need R going to + on the thermal couple and Y going to -.
Then you need power for the little box device which is + and a ground which is - and then the center is a 0-5 output that you need to put in to the haltech. Under the paramaters of the sensor you map 0-5 volts for 990C or convert to F if it's in F.
Hope this helps
I also have the same problem, I cannot seem to get more than 1 volt out of the unit. I'm on a TEC3 and using a 0-5V input and have the same calibration as you do (5V=990C)
I got the setup from Powertrainsolutions.com I called them about the issue and they sent me another set of probes but it did not make a difference. Currently I datalog EGT's but just to compare one rotor to another. I don't actually know the temperatures since the conversion is off.
I have the KType probes so all I need is a way to translate the output of these probes to an input that requires 0-5V, any recommendations?
Thanks for the help,
Anthony
#61
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Zazzn,
I also have the same problem, I cannot seem to get more than 1 volt out of the unit. I'm on a TEC3 and using a 0-5V input and have the same calibration as you do (5V=990C)
I got the setup from Powertrainsolutions.com I called them about the issue and they sent me another set of probes but it did not make a difference. Currently I datalog EGT's but just to compare one rotor to another. I don't actually know the temperatures since the conversion is off.
I have the KType probes so all I need is a way to translate the output of these probes to an input that requires 0-5V, any recommendations?
Thanks for the help,
Anthony
I also have the same problem, I cannot seem to get more than 1 volt out of the unit. I'm on a TEC3 and using a 0-5V input and have the same calibration as you do (5V=990C)
I got the setup from Powertrainsolutions.com I called them about the issue and they sent me another set of probes but it did not make a difference. Currently I datalog EGT's but just to compare one rotor to another. I don't actually know the temperatures since the conversion is off.
I have the KType probes so all I need is a way to translate the output of these probes to an input that requires 0-5V, any recommendations?
Thanks for the help,
Anthony
thewird
#62
rotorhead
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I bought the K-type probes from TeamRip, now I need the converters. Thewird, are you using the FJO kit? Does it come with information to make sure that the datalogit reads the signal properly, and do you think it will work with the TeamRip probes? I tried calling them up but the line is busy...?
#64
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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here's what you need to change the thermocouple v to 0-5 V
see EGT unit near bottom...
http://www.simplecircuitboards.com/Thermocouples.html
hc
see EGT unit near bottom...
http://www.simplecircuitboards.com/Thermocouples.html
hc
#65
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here's what you need to change the thermocouple v to 0-5 V
see EGT unit near bottom...
http://www.simplecircuitboards.com/Thermocouples.html
hc
see EGT unit near bottom...
http://www.simplecircuitboards.com/Thermocouples.html
hc
thewird
#67
rotorhead
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I just called FJO. Their converter reads from 20 degrees F to 2150 degrees F on a .5-4.5 V scale and should work with the Teamrip probes. It's a little more expensive (about $140 shipped on Horsepower Freaks/Amazon), but I am going to go ahead and get that.
It also has a nicer look to it:
I will update everybody when I receive it.
It also has a nicer look to it:
I will update everybody when I receive it.
Last edited by arghx; 11-19-08 at 11:02 AM.
#69
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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i suggest as close to the manifold flange as possible. mine are one inch from the flange that bolts to the block. if you do two they should of course be in as similar a position as possible. good move on the FJO setup.
hc
hc
#70
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I talked to the guy from teamrip on the phone in great length. He told me that if these probes are to see anywhere near the 1600 degree mark that they start to come apart really quickly. Given the nature of the rotary, and the fact that even Howard (if my memory serves me correctly) said to tune to 1550 degrees egt temp. The guy told me that i should mount the sensors around 6 inches away from the exhaust port. Do what you want, but as far as any kind of longevity for the sensors and or the turbo that the parts would shoot at if and when they fail, i would recommend that you go with the 6 inch route. Just my 2 cents. All be it, i still havent got mine reading with those signal converters that teamrip is using. Perhaps they are garbage. Dont know. Just following other peoples lead.
--Hank
--Hank
#72
400Rwhp Seq Twins Baby!!
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#73
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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I talked to the guy from teamrip on the phone in great length. He told me that if these probes are to see anywhere near the 1600 degree mark that they start to come apart really quickly. Given the nature of the rotary, and the fact that even Howard (if my memory serves me correctly) said to tune to 1550 degrees egt temp. The guy told me that i should mount the sensors around 6 inches away from the exhaust port. Do what you want, but as far as any kind of longevity for the sensors and or the turbo that the parts would shoot at if and when they fail, i would recommend that you go with the 6 inch route. Just my 2 cents. All be it, i still havent got mine reading with those signal converters that teamrip is using. Perhaps they are garbage. Dont know. Just following other peoples lead.
--Hank
--Hank
But my personal experience has been similar to Howard's.
My probes (K type closed element, Pineapple {HEWITT} dual EGT guage) are ~1" from the exhaust ports and have been in service for over 30,000kms and over two years. They've seen, during the initial tunes, EGT's in excess of 1800F. Also, I took this car across the continent in the spring and they saw 1500F for hours and days on end while cruising at highway speeds.
Still working fine....*knock on wood*
#74
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I'm glad that people are having good real world experience with these sensors. I dont know what kind of experience the team rip guy has with the sensors. If howard has been using them for that long with good results i would trust them.
What kind of signal converter are you using now howard? Have you gone with the fjo unit? And who are you ordering your fjo parts through now? Thanks!
--Hank
What kind of signal converter are you using now howard? Have you gone with the fjo unit? And who are you ordering your fjo parts through now? Thanks!
--Hank
#75
Racing Rotary Since 1983
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"What kind of signal converter are you using now howard?"
the outfit i bought my convertor from is no longer in biz. my post #64 sources another that should work well. 'same AD chip... $35 per channel.
Rixio... the location is fine although only 1/2 inch of my probe extends into the runner. this shouldn'y pose any problem for you however.
hc
the outfit i bought my convertor from is no longer in biz. my post #64 sources another that should work well. 'same AD chip... $35 per channel.
Rixio... the location is fine although only 1/2 inch of my probe extends into the runner. this shouldn'y pose any problem for you however.
hc
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 12-18-08 at 06:59 AM.