IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I have done a bunch of fd diffs and have always replaced it. Never had any noise/problems.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I kept the same crush collar in there and tightened the nut back up, it feels like the same amount of pinion preload as there was when I took the nut off, unfortunately I don't have a beam style torque wrench, all I have is a small inch-pound torque wrench that reads down to about 17 inch pounds. The torque needed to get the pinion started is more than 25 inch pounds but then once the pinion is spinning the torque wrench doesn't go low enough to see what that torque is to keep the pinion spinning, but my guess is it is close to 7-10 inch pounds. It feels tight, but not too tight. And the torque on the nut is 130 ft/lbs now. The pinion preload also felt tight when the nut torque was at 95 ft/lbs, the preload wasn't too loose like it was when the nut was around 50 ft lbs. So I think it feels good and wasn't a problem reusing the crush collar, what do you think?

Also with this T2 LSD, I need thicker carrier shims now, it looks like I need about 1mm more thickness of shims, its real loose in there, the carrier preload was good with the FD LSD in there but this T2 LSD must be close to 1mm smaller, with the bearings that came with it. Do you know where can I get some carrier shims local? Any ideas? I am also getting a dial indicator to set the backlash once I get shims. thanks.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

The TII housing is threaded and has spacers that you can screw in and out to shim it. I don't understand why Mazda didn't carry the idea over as it makes it much easier to shim the diff. There are like 20 or something different shims. I usually take some measurements to get a close idea then order about half the shims that are close. I get them from Mazda. I have about half of them in stock. The pinion nut being too loose probably caused the play you had before.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I used two feeler gauges on each side of the carrier to estimate how much additional thickness of shims I need on each side(had one feeler gauge on the top and one on the bottom in between the housing and the shim, on both sides of the carrier), so I will order a bunch of shims close to the size I need from Ray at Mally mazda, but as of now it looks like I need .4mm thicker on the right side and .5mm thicker on the left side. It would be really nice if they were adjustable like the older rx7s.

I don't know why you said the pinion nut being too loose probably caused the play I had before, I don't think it was too loose and don't think I said it was loose.

Thanks.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Sorry, misread your last post.

tom94RX-7

iTrader: (5)

I got the car back together and everything seems all good after driving it a bunch of times and accelerating full throttle a bunch of times. The damper on the companion flange did not move out of place and the rear end sounds good. I did not replace the crush collar, I got the pinion preload set good and the backlash is .005" with a 6.5mm shim on the ring gear side and i used a 6.30mm shim and another Shim i had to make from a really thin piece of metal I had that is .013", I could not get enough carrier bearing preload or the gap filled completely without this extra shim, or with any of the shims from mazda, a 6.5mm shim was not thick enough.