Came out to warm up my car this morning. Turned it on and 30 seconds later, BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP!
OH ****! I turned it off and checked the filler. I could not see any coolant in there! WTF!
I removed the hose on the TB and topped of the filler neck. Used about .5 litre (water bottle amount).
Put the hose back on the TB, turned on the engine and topped off the filler neck again.
I let it warm up and drove to work. It drove fine and everything. I got to work, parked and check around the engine and under the car with the engine both on and off. I didn't see leaks or anything.
I'm scared...

 

Just keep topping it off every mourning and see if it goes away in a few days.

Why did you take off the hose on the TB?

 

To help release any air bubles that might be in the system.

 

Yeah, I have had this happen to me also! Does it continue to buzz as you are driving or does it shut off? It could be one of the two sensors! When it happened to me on my FD, I replaced both sensors and the problem still wasn't solved, but my problem was apparently the owner before me had installed an extra, aftermarket sensor! I guess he was alittle scared about the car overheating!
Can you see if you are losing any coolant and how are your temps?

 

Checking the coolant lines wouldn't hurt either. I had th same thing happen to me a while ago, and it turned out that one of the lines leading from the AST to the overflow tank had gotten loose by one of the connectors. While I was upgrading my radiator I found this, so it's good to just do a check.

 

I just turned the car off right away when I heard it.
I just checked the filler neck again and it's down only about an inch now. Topped it off and drove.
My temps are normal according to the PFC Commander...
About 83 C when I'm crusing.

 

Does your car make a perculating sound when you turn it off after driving?

 

Perculating sound? Wha?

 

Check and make sure that their is no coolant underneath the car after it has been sitting for a while!
So when you topped it off and drove away did the buzzing continue? Hit me up on AIM if you have it, that would be a lot easier! AIM: sexxyrx7

Nicole

 

That percolating sound is reffering to turbo boiling coolant after shutoff. It's pretty normal, but can be reduced by idling with the fans on for about 3 min.

I think there is a conspiricy against our cooling systems. Some Stephen King ghoul thing coming into the garage and sucking coolant out and destroying O-rings.

Vudoo, I think you should check your coolant level whenever it is cooled off enough to do so. If you are losing coolant on a regular basis, you need to put a pressure tester on the car and look for drool. Sources include old hoses, water pump failing, radiator leaking, and O-ring failure. Have fun!

 

O-Ring failure denial ...that's what my therapist calls it!

Water level gets below sensor in filler neck and causes light to come on. You refill with coolant/water but by the next day the same thing. Then you are filling up twice a day, then every drive. Other syptoms include bogging when taking off (cold/warm engine 1st 15 min'). ->I posted a similar thread a week or two ago (It has the links you need).


* If you get boiling sound - flush & replace, else add more antifreeze. Better yet, replace with Evans coolant.

* If water magicaly evaporates - do CRC block weld right away, while it still can be fixed.

 

hi...im jason...and i too have had o ring failure denial.

a quick solution to the percolating bubbling sound coming from the cooling system is to let the car idle after taking off the cap on both the ast and the radiator...fill the ast first and then fill the radiator the air will bubble out as you do it and you can simply keep filling it up with water til you are good to go.

flush your cooling system and keep an eye on your temps voodoo.....get a temp guage if you can...watch that cheap autometer guage like a doctor on a heart monitor.


j

 

Didn't you just replace the engine?
I think it was just a little low on fluid. Keep topping off if nessecary.
Didn't you get a mazda reman, maybe an o ring?

 

The reason why I ask is that I had the same problem as you did a month and a half back and the first thing that I noticed 2 weeks before my coolant incident was my car would make a boiling sound everytime I shut it off after driving. What Spurvo said is correct, but I'm not entirely sure if it is harmless. There seems to be debate about it in either direction.

Anyways, my coolant was boiling on a regular basis and eventually I took it for a weekend drive and the car overheated. I wasn't driving hard at all and the temps went straight through the roof, followed by steam from the passenger side headlight. It turns out that my coolant caps were switched and my system was not pressurized correctly. So, my coolant would boil over way below the norm due to there being no pressure. And I was seeing the same thing... my filler neck would be empty after being filled numerous times prior to driving. There were no obvious leaks in my coolant lines or AST.

My fix? I spent the money and bought a Fluidyne radiator, replaced the hose connecting the overflow and AST, replaced the AST with a aluminum unit, and put in a new overflow tank. It fixed my disappearing coolant problem. The combination of a possible tiny leak in my hoses along with old filler neck and AST caps probably did me in.

 

Hi, my name is (...)and I have O-Ring failure denial!
...Hello, Slim Shady.

Personaly, I think the perkalating coolant is a pre-warning. At first I would think I just ran the car hard. You know a little "alleged" Speed Racer run and it was summer. Then winter time I convinced myself it was normal, since our cars run very hot anyhow (survey says: buzz).

Anyhow, according to Robinette the boiling is from hot spots which is either air and/or he coolant surpasing it's boiling point (260f or something like that). So do you have air in the system from O-Ring failure, other reason(s) or are your temps getting hotter then your coolants max boiling point? ...you'll need an acurate water temp gauge which rules out the stock one which doesn't show the temp anyhow.

I to had a cruise a few weeks back and temp jumped to the top white line and steam from the pasenger fender/hood. My Radiator cap was a new Blitz. The AST cap is stock but I can hear the AST working. No obvious water leaks and the radiator is a semi-new Fluidyne. Hello, my name is...

 

Percolating (no really, I spell checked it. NOW I'm an a**hole ) could never be harmless, though I'm pretty sure it's why there is an AST. For the Evans coolant foks, do they ever hear the percolating (just HAD to, didn't I?) sound?

Consider the thread hijacked!!

 

Yup, I put in a reman last July. That's why I'm scared. Don't want to put in another motor so soon...

 

Well I changed my oil today. I took a look around while I was under the car. I see no signs of any leaks. Everything was dry under the car.
I hope the system was just low and needed to be topped off.
I HATE THE SMELL OF COOLANT.

 

OK, so I took off the caps for the filler neck and the AST and turned the car on. I topped them both off and put the caps back on.
Then I noticed that coolant was seeping out from the AST. It's like if the AST cap wasn't on tight or something.
I think it stopped when the car is warmed up. I got to work and popped the hood while the car was running. The AST wasn't leaking any more. I couldn't see any other leaks anywhere. I turned it off and sat there for a while, then checked under the car to see of any coolant spilled outta the reservoir. I didn't see anything.
Do you guys think it's just the AST cap? I'll stop by autozone during lunch to grab a new cap.
I have an aluminum AST BTW. My temps while driving were around 85C or so and it was around 40's F this morning.

 

Read this before CRC BLock Welding:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=174747

 

Holy ****.

 

the bubling after shutoff is normal, its the water around the turbos thats trying to get teh heat away from them

 

NO ****!!!

That was exactly what I said when I removed the top end tank of each radiator.

Car seems to run fine though even with all the clogging although it overheated twice over the summer.

Yes. I'm also in o-ring denial.

Did Malloy increase the prices on reman recently? I'm kinda leery about spending money especially when the economy is going down the ******* ... Oh well, I can always get a job pouring concrete or laying asphalt in Iraq!

 

Mazda reman = $2995, with $1000 core refund as of yesterday

The clogged **** is why I'm not even bothering with CRC deal. Yuck, and I don't want to go through the Fluidyne hassle I did last time.

 

dotn do CRC crap especailyl on a turbo rotary, u are takign too many risks , do whats needed to me done if the water seals are gone...