Well i thought my turbos were bad but discovered oil coming from the far left runner. I have probly 5k on my rebuild, used all new seals. I am wondering if this could be a oil ring seal or something different. All the other runners are clean. I think i am going to tear down the motor and figure out what it is i just figured i would see if there is anything external that could cause this. Maybe the omp?

 

check to see if perhaps one of your omp lines is causing the oil leakage..

 

Well no leaking must be a control ring. I did have like double the oil in the engine for a few start ups. Thought i had drained the oil before winter put 4 quarts in which usually is perfect then i figured out i had double oops.

 

Check the OMP lines and the Oil Metering Nozzles nder the UIM.

 

Yeah that's what i checked and no oil. It seems weird that it would be just out of the one runner though, but i guess the omp line only goes in the one side. I wounder if the pump could have malfunctioned and fed too much oil? I would think it would be both sides then.

 

I wouldn't put too much emphasis on the one runner, it could just be the other side is sealed up better.

If you overfilled oil and ran the car at one point that's quite likely it. The PCV system will barf a lot of oil into the intake when it's overfilled so the engine will be sucking in oil. Extra oil puddled there and leaked out.

Dale

 

do not overlook the oil pipe for the turbo. I just finished a rebuild and i found a hole in the oil pipe to the turbo. When I tightened it it got worse.

 

Well i only ran it like twice before i figured that out but i probly put 2k on it since then. I will check all the lines to the turbo. I am going to pull it anyway cuz i was getting like 10psi of vac at 1100 rpms and no vac leaks. Although the compression test was like 105 but only so accurate with the piston tester. I might have one side that is not sealing well. Probly have my irons lapped.

 

if it's not smoking like a train then your internals are fine. i'd have to assume the oil in the runner was from running the engine with excessive oil which has yet to cycle through the system. running that much oil i can easily envision it getting into all of the crankcase ventilation system which has to purge all that oil over time..

also do not put much emphasis on aftermarket vacuum/boost gauges. i have seen a number of people's cars come through lately reading 10-12"Hg on their name brand gauges when in fact the vacuum readings were quite off, at the ECU reading 15-18"Hg. with 105PSI you have already verified the internals are sealing up just fine.

 

Well maybe your right but when i was building my engine i was filing down one of my side seals and broke it. I made a dumb decision to re use an old one instead of ordering a new one. It was a little loose. Thats why i was thinking maybe that had something to do with the low vac numbers. I also hooked up a auto meter gauge and got about the same readings. It this compression test if you look close you can see one rotor face drop off to like 60psi. That rotor had a collective psi of 100 the other 105.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylgVtJokR9A

 

if that is your current compression then yes it is pretty low. it actually looks even but it is at about 80psi on all faces which will be borderline for starting issues and result in low vacuum and weak low end performance.

but i doubt it is due to the reused sideseal, unless it was super sloppy.

 

I though without the shrader valve it would not be as high as your overall number?

 

This is from the rotary Resurrection site

observe the needle bounces. You should see 3 in succession without skips, even bounces, in roughly the 30-35psi range.

 

that is the figure if the release valve is removed from the side of the tester(or held open), if the schraeder valve is removed from the hose at the plugs then that figure is certainly low.

i don't like that test anyways, it relies on how well air is escaping the port on the tester and doesn't give a good idea if you have a weak face or not as the figures are low.

 

So what would be the problem a bad irons or rotor housings. I did not have my irons lapped they were in ok shape passed the finger nail test, and housings had no flaking. I guess i may be sending you my irons for lapping.

 

difficult to say, what kind of apex seals did you run in it? pay close attention to any wear patterns on the housings and apex seals as well place the apex seals on a flat table together and measure the total length of the seal and compare it to the narrowest width of the rotor housings and double check your rotor housing thickness variations.

 

Im not sure what kind of seals they were, they were a two piece but not super seals. I work in a big machine shop and we have big granit flat tables so i will check them out there. Still got to get the motor out, sometimes i think its faster to just take the tranny out with it.

 

Well I cracked her open tonight and much to my dismay i found why i had bad compression. I had grooving in almost all my irons, and major grooving in the housings, but they didnt seem to be chipping much. They were not the best to start with but sure seemed like they didnt last very long. Is there some reasons why this may have happened it was my first rebuild and i am trying to learn from my mistakes. It might have been that my stuff was already close to its worst Torrance.

 

Take pics of the housings..... I'm guessing one or more of the metal oil control rings were not locked in place and were spinning freely.

 

Don't you mean take pics of the irons, aren't they the only thing coming in contact with the oil control rings?

 

The engine has 5 housings. Take pics of all of them, regardless of whether they're made of iron or aluminum.

 

Sorry for the delay here are the pics. They are a little hard to see but the grooving in the side housings looks to be corner seals or maybe apex seals and undersized rotor housings. I still have to get a new battery for my calipers so i can measure it.

 

Pictures are kinda hard to see not a very good camera

 

^^You can say that again.

 

I will try again tomorrow with a different camera. What causes grooving in the rotor housing? Detonation?