KZ1

well I removed my airpump and idle got worse. It had worsened lately and I thought it must be a check valve or something. this is where I am so far.

The pipe that goes from air pump to ACV (lower one)-upper one goes directly to acv. anyway, the pipe that air pump pumps into. Manual states that with engine idle " air shoudl not flow from ACV". (through that pipe) and if it does replace the port air check valve. well, if I am to understand "air flow from ACV" to also mean a vacuum. them my port air check vlave is bad. that pipe sucks in air on my car into the exhaust port or something. when I plug it up, my car runs like ****.

so question is, should it draw air in or no? and even if the check-valve is shot wouldn't plugging it up be the same thing? so why doesn't that help?

Thanks guys, I know this has been killed to death lately, but I just want to get this bitch running properly.

ZoomZoom

iTrader: (2)

The Air pump on the 3rd gen provides secondary air injection at idle and low RPMs. Disconnecting it will lessen the air intake charge at idle and will severly effect idle and low RPM throttle response. Its Likely you have already fouled your plugs running without the air pump and this will also add to the poor idle. Reconnect air pump and replace plugs, In that order. Without proper tuning with a stand alone ECU the Air pump should be retained.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

When I rebuilt my engine last year, I took the ACV off and removed all the pieces. There was a lot of carbon buildup on all the valves and ports. I cleaned them all and varified that the solenoids worked. I also replaced the large about 1.5" main valve. Maybe you just have a clogged up valve preventing normal operation.

KZ1

th epropper tuning is what I am trying to figure out, I have a stand alone ECU. I am also try to find out wether it is normal for the lower pipe to suck air in at idle?