I am really sorry for you - I think the frame is not damaged which means the structural rigidity of the car remains intact - I would look to get someone send you a cheap front clip from Japan and fix it

 

I would like to take your hatch if you want to part out

 

Im no doctor, but in my medical opinion the wheel isn't supposed to be crushed into the back of the fender like that.

To the OP; Condolences man, I hope it gets sorted out for you.

 

Since when is the upper frame rail and core support not part of the frame of the vehicle?

 

My experience is that you don't really get to push one way or the other on 'if' they total it or not.. Their adjusters will get some numbers on getting it back and then it becomes academic.

Sorry for your loss man, it looks like you have a lot of heart, love and $$ into that car. Great job on it too, beautiful ride!

Does anyone have any idea of how good State Farm is on these situations? I'll put a call in and check but I'm finally at a point where my FD is where I want it and I have WAY more than 'retail' into it...

Thanks and sorry again!

 

^Get collector's insurance. Standard insurance won't provide enough value for a nice/low mile/modded FD so in the event of an accident the car gets totaled out very easily.

 

Agree with this^ Collector's insurance is the way to go for a non-DD

 

I was recently contacted from the other drivers insurance company and they compared my car to 2 others found in different dealerships and estimated the value of the car to be 20,400. Waiting to hear back from them about the Maheim auction price that I could buy the car back for. Still waiting to hear back from my insurance rep on what they will estimate the value to be..

My big decision comes down to either buying another FD with around the same mileage or spending the money on getting my car fixed.. I would love some opinions on what the best choice of action is, I'm leaning towards fixing and updating to 99 spec and possibly upgrading the turbos. Is getting a new front section of frame rail possible?

 

I would just buy a low mileage one, buy the car back if you can, keep what you like and part the rest out.

 

They are going to struggle to establish wholesale value through Manheim, because very few FD RX7s go through auction. In the last six months there have been four. 34k miles for $21,100, 44k miles for $17,500, 51k miles for $14,900, 73k miles for $13,200, all shown as "average" condition so obviously not accident damaged.

 

Thanks for this info! I looked in to Hagerty a year or two ago and was dismayed at all the 'restrictions' they had in regards to mileage.

 

Got the confirmation from the other drivers insurance, looks like these are my 3 options:

A) The offer I made you Monday which is to pay you for the Total Loss @ $20,418.67 in exchange for the vehicle title

B) I pay you for the total loss, process the title as a rebuildable title which I would send back to you, and you retain ownership of the vehicle. If we do this I would be paying you the market value of $19,262.90 (I do not owe for sales tax if you retain the vehicle) - $5,000.00 (what I would expect to get at auction for the vehicle) = $14,262.90

C) I pay you for the repair estimate (attached to the email) of $11,844.37 and 12 days loss of use (rental) @ $30 a day in exchange for a Property Damage Release. I calculate the loss of use time based on the estimated 46.5 hours to repair / 4.5 hours a day that a technician would spend on the vehicle = 10 days. Plus 2 days for a weekend when the shop is closed = 12 days.

I'm between B and C..

 

I'm not sure if you're asking for an opinion... but I would go with B.

A is obviously the cleanest path. Get money, buy a new FD (...and you might be able to talk them into letting you swap wheels for stock). $20K will get you something equal if not better then what you have. Add some cash on top and you can have something really special. Nothing beats cash in hand.

C is a risk. If that repair estimate isn't spot on, you're going to be on the hook. Once those papers are signed and the check cut, all bets are off.

B, however, puts you in the best financial position and keeps all your options open. You can pocket the $14K and get waaaaay more then $5K out of the car if you decide to part it out. Downside being the time investment to actually part it. You can also put that $14K into fixing it however you want (99 spec conversion?). However, you still do run the risk of having the repair bill creep up like in scenario C.

Personally, I would be stuck between A & B at this point and leaning towards B.

All that said, this seems like a much better scenario then what you were initially expecting, so kudos on that.

 

I second Matt on option B. You could make a small fortune on the part out, the community could use these parts as our supplies on various parts are running thin and you still have a good chunk to put at a nice FD. Down side one less FD in the states and you'll have to window shop for a while to find a nice one with all the stuff you really want...

Either way things are looking good for you and you weren't seriously injured which is the best part! Sorry for the loss I'd be a little hurt inside if I were in that position lol.

 

Sorry for your loss, I almost had a close call in the summer. I think financially, your best option would be option B. Like Matt said, the only downside is time spent on parting it out.

 

Why would you ever choose C? Even if you wanted to repair it you would be better off with the 14k.

 

I would go with B as well. 14k and you keep the car for parts or sell off everything... you will make good money on that one!

 

go with option B and hurry up and make a part out thread Seriously though sorry for the loss.

 

You have progressive?
im in a similar situation. some lady tried to pass on via going into the oncoming lane, but she came up short and hit me, and spun me into a parked truck. my car is also in much worse shape than yours is, so im sure its totaled. im pretty worried on what they are going to offer as far as a pay out. i feel your pain man, if i were you i would do options b and find a roller, but ive been having a hard time finding a clean roller. goodluck with that part. keep us posted on everything!

 

Wow. So many totaled FDs, I'm very curious to know how many are currently registered in the USA..... I'm thinking my super low mile MB is worth hanging onto.

 

Agreed! I'd love to find out how many are left and registered on the road. This would not count the track ***** that really dont have much value to the everyday person.

 

I left out a minor detail, with B the title is considered a repair title where as with C it would be kept clean.

Yes I have progressive, their estimates were off compared to Florida Farm Bureau. They offered me 15k for the car vs 20k...thinking it might be worth while to switch if the rates aren't too different just to know they can evaluate true car worth more accurately in case something like this were to happen again. Good luck man, this process sucks.

 

I say go with option B. Yes, it's a 5k hit, but like most others are hinting, you can sell some parts and buy an FD roller to swap into for under 10k.

 

No brainer, option B. You can part the car out for over $10k if you have the time and space.

If you dont have the ability take the money. You can find another FD just as clean for $20k no problem.

 

YEP

Even if you don't have the time to part (which is some serious work) take option B and sell the wrecked car for at least 7500 and more likely 10k depending upon condition and aftermarket parts etc....

Good luck