Debut Picture of Rotary Extreme FEED Type II Replica
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Holy Sheep ****, Bacon!
I had *no* idea your fd would turn out looking like this when we spoke on the phone and I bestowed all my (vast
) knowledge of the fd upon you 
That kicks serious *** man....can't wait til I get out of the army and make some serious bucks to afford that kind of stuff
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Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 971
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
wow, very very nice! how much did you pay for everything???
I'd definately say that it's a close runner up against the Mazdaspeed GT-C series
AWESOME!
P.S. combo lights are the only way to go ;D
I'd definately say that it's a close runner up against the Mazdaspeed GT-C series
AWESOME!
P.S. combo lights are the only way to go ;D
Originally posted by DRAG0NEER
is the paint perfectly straight instead of wavy due to it being a replica?
is the paint perfectly straight instead of wavy due to it being a replica?
Just because its a replica does not mean you will have waviness. All hand-laid fiberglass parts, whether original or replica, will have its final finish determined by how much care and skill the FG shop puts into the product.
BTW, excellent job Kyle!
Photo Diety
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Doh! I hate you...the car looks great. I hope to have a pic of mine up next week (black car this time) if the body shop ever gets their heads out of their collective asses! :-)
The shop did say it needed a lot of finishing work. The surface was pretty rough and needed a few coats of primer with sanding. Still, after four weeks of having it, you'd think it'd be painted by now and ready to install, no?
The shop did say it needed a lot of finishing work. The surface was pretty rough and needed a few coats of primer with sanding. Still, after four weeks of having it, you'd think it'd be painted by now and ready to install, no?
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,833
Likes: 493
From: Stockton, CA
Michel:
I am not writing this to flame you but I want to clear up a few things.
1. The bumper is smooth and not wavy. The roughness you feel at the mold joint area is the white primer. There might be some overspray of the white primer on the bumper to create that roughness feel but it's not important, because you need to sand the whole bumper before you spray the primer.
2. To prep the bumper right before painting, you will have to sand it with a 400-600 grit sand paper. Even if the gel coat is smooth as silk, you will still have to sand it with a 600 grit sand paper before you put a layer of primer so the primer can stick. The lip area shouldn't have any white primer spray on it. Touch it with your hand. it's smooth as silk. Most bodyshops that I know that deal a lot with fiberglass bodykit parts actually prefer a little rougher surface so the primer can stick better. If you just spray the primer without sanding the bumper first, your paint will fall off within a couple of months. Yes, then the bodyshop will blame on the bumper, not the paint job they have done for you. I have heard too many of those stories. Watch out! Ask them how they are going to prep your bumper. If you are paying, they should give you the details. There is no secret about painting. Careful preping is the key to quality paint job.
3. Waviness and roughness are two different things. If the bumper is wavy, you will have to do a lot of bodywork to get rid off the waviness. If it's not smooth as silk, it shouldn't add any cost to the painting because sanding the whole bumper is part of the painting process regardless the smoothness of the bumper.
4. A lot of bodyshops lie to you to get more money out of you. If you really want to know about the painting process, there are some books on www.amazon.com. I urge you to buy one of those booklets for around $10-15 so you don't get ripped off by those dishonest body shops.
5. Most shops I know in California only charges between $200-350 to paint a whole bumper inculding paint and installation. I notice most East Coast bodyshops charge a lot more and their work is not as good. Shop around and make sure the shop you go to has done some fiberglass bodyworks. Even if they can match a factory Porsche paint job, that does not necessarily mean they can paint your fiberglass bumper and paint it right. Metal factory parts and aftermarket fiberglass parts are really different. It's sad to say this but true. If they can put on some Honda bodykits and make those fit, they will think your FEED replica bumper is a piece of cake. Those are the shops you should go to. Before you decide, go to the shops and see if they have any cars with fiberglass bodykits. If you see all factory cars, don't go there. You will end up with a big a$$ bill and a screwed up paint job.
Chuck Huang
I am not writing this to flame you but I want to clear up a few things.
1. The bumper is smooth and not wavy. The roughness you feel at the mold joint area is the white primer. There might be some overspray of the white primer on the bumper to create that roughness feel but it's not important, because you need to sand the whole bumper before you spray the primer.
2. To prep the bumper right before painting, you will have to sand it with a 400-600 grit sand paper. Even if the gel coat is smooth as silk, you will still have to sand it with a 600 grit sand paper before you put a layer of primer so the primer can stick. The lip area shouldn't have any white primer spray on it. Touch it with your hand. it's smooth as silk. Most bodyshops that I know that deal a lot with fiberglass bodykit parts actually prefer a little rougher surface so the primer can stick better. If you just spray the primer without sanding the bumper first, your paint will fall off within a couple of months. Yes, then the bodyshop will blame on the bumper, not the paint job they have done for you. I have heard too many of those stories. Watch out! Ask them how they are going to prep your bumper. If you are paying, they should give you the details. There is no secret about painting. Careful preping is the key to quality paint job.
3. Waviness and roughness are two different things. If the bumper is wavy, you will have to do a lot of bodywork to get rid off the waviness. If it's not smooth as silk, it shouldn't add any cost to the painting because sanding the whole bumper is part of the painting process regardless the smoothness of the bumper.
4. A lot of bodyshops lie to you to get more money out of you. If you really want to know about the painting process, there are some books on www.amazon.com. I urge you to buy one of those booklets for around $10-15 so you don't get ripped off by those dishonest body shops.
5. Most shops I know in California only charges between $200-350 to paint a whole bumper inculding paint and installation. I notice most East Coast bodyshops charge a lot more and their work is not as good. Shop around and make sure the shop you go to has done some fiberglass bodyworks. Even if they can match a factory Porsche paint job, that does not necessarily mean they can paint your fiberglass bumper and paint it right. Metal factory parts and aftermarket fiberglass parts are really different. It's sad to say this but true. If they can put on some Honda bodykits and make those fit, they will think your FEED replica bumper is a piece of cake. Those are the shops you should go to. Before you decide, go to the shops and see if they have any cars with fiberglass bodykits. If you see all factory cars, don't go there. You will end up with a big a$$ bill and a screwed up paint job.
Chuck Huang
Originally posted by rx7tt95
Doh! I hate you...the car looks great. I hope to have a pic of mine up next week (black car this time) if the body shop ever gets their heads out of their collective asses! :-)
The shop did say it needed a lot of finishing work. The surface was pretty rough and needed a few coats of primer with sanding. Still, after four weeks of having it, you'd think it'd be painted by now and ready to install, no?
Doh! I hate you...the car looks great. I hope to have a pic of mine up next week (black car this time) if the body shop ever gets their heads out of their collective asses! :-)
The shop did say it needed a lot of finishing work. The surface was pretty rough and needed a few coats of primer with sanding. Still, after four weeks of having it, you'd think it'd be painted by now and ready to install, no?
This is the most beautiful FD I have ever seen
Holy ****
And where can I get that front bumper replica I love it
and I need a new front end since I'm having the car repainted any way
hook me up
once again omg how does it feel to drive that car??
-Snook
Holy ****
And where can I get that front bumper replica I love it
and I need a new front end since I'm having the car repainted any way
hook me up
once again omg how does it feel to drive that car??
-Snook
Originally posted by GoodfellaFD3S
....can't wait til I get out of the army and make some serious bucks to afford that kind of stuff
....can't wait til I get out of the army and make some serious bucks to afford that kind of stuff
Originally posted by Snook
thats waaaaaaaay to expensive for me
not even preped, painted or installed , without turn lamps, and not even shipped for $750
thanks for the info but hell no
thats waaaaaaaay to expensive for me
not even preped, painted or installed , without turn lamps, and not even shipped for $750
thanks for the info but hell no
Was the sunroof not painted the color of the car in 94 and 95 or what?
I am getting my car in a week and having it repainted and if it is possible I'd love to take the paint off the sunroof and have it look like that
If Ive made a huge mistake here in how the sunroof operates don't make fun of me haha
Ive never seen a touring up close before just r1s
It looks sweet being able to tell that you have a sunroof without it being opened though
let me know
_Snook (doin my fd research)
I am getting my car in a week and having it repainted and if it is possible I'd love to take the paint off the sunroof and have it look like that
If Ive made a huge mistake here in how the sunroof operates don't make fun of me haha
Ive never seen a touring up close before just r1s
It looks sweet being able to tell that you have a sunroof without it being opened though
let me know
_Snook (doin my fd research)
Originally posted by Snook
Was the sunroof not painted the color of the car in 94 and 95 or what?
I am getting my car in a week and having it repainted and if it is possible I'd love to take the paint off the sunroof and have it look like that
If Ive made a huge mistake here in how the sunroof operates don't make fun of me haha
Ive never seen a touring up close before just r1s
It looks sweet being able to tell that you have a sunroof without it being opened though
let me know
_Snook (doin my fd research)
Was the sunroof not painted the color of the car in 94 and 95 or what?
I am getting my car in a week and having it repainted and if it is possible I'd love to take the paint off the sunroof and have it look like that
If Ive made a huge mistake here in how the sunroof operates don't make fun of me haha
Ive never seen a touring up close before just r1s
It looks sweet being able to tell that you have a sunroof without it being opened though
let me know
_Snook (doin my fd research)
I managed to snag one for my 93 hehe.Daniel