ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

I got a new one from Rich. I borrowed back the one I sold Tom too, it wasn't any louder!

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

I'd say flow is average. You want flow get a TI

You know anything you get from Rich is tore up. He has the heaviest foot on the forum

Just giving you ****. The pfs exhaust is made like a tank. The TI is just a tiny bit louder, like maybe 20 percent

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Yes logic suggests that it is more restrictive. However, I've haven't seen any data to back that up, so to me the question is by how much? I have a RB catback in my GT35R FD and there are no signs of it being too restrictive for it. In fact, @ 15 psi I was able to run down a 400RWHP SRT-4.

with that said I wouldn't go as far to say it is the wrong exhaust...

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Nothing registered on the butt-dyno when I moved to the RB DT either.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Over the past 18 months, I keep moving this 7 car forward on the Fritz Flynn De-Mod standard. Last year was a blast, issue free, and the winter down time has given opportunity forthe expert hands of Bansai to add to the De-Mod and Right-Mod approach.

Suspension and torsional support: Ohlin Coilovers, Bansai trans and diff braces and an R1 strut brace.

Exhaust: down pipe and Racing Beat dual tip exhaust.

Engine: PFC with OLED commander, dual intake filters, GReddy intake elbow, Supra TT pump, AST elimination, battery relo, vacuum line simplification including the Bansai block plate kit, lightened flywheel, air pump elimination, and a Pettit idler pulley. Result is a conservative and safe 315 RWHP.

Cooling: Pettit smic, Koyo radiator.

Interior: Recovered seats in black Italian leather (from tan), replaced seats plastics from tan to black, recovered shift **** and boot, major stereo simplification.

Exterior: R1 front lip, TrakLite wheels 18x8.5/9.5; 235/35 and 275/30. New OEM exterior door handles, 99 Spec taillights, Effini logos front and rear.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I just finished swapping back from an ORC twin plate to ACT extreme pressure plate with a performance street sprung disc. I'm so happy I switched back. The twin plate was way more than I needed on a 430whp and 355lb/ft car and completely annoying to drive on the street. I absolutely love having a more normal clutch again.

I had glazed the twin plate so engagement wasn't harsh but it also didn't hold any power over about 200hp lol. Once I rebuilt it I remembered that I hated it lol. I was either doing a burnout or killing the car about every time I left from a stop.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Exactly SJ! IMO there's nothing that makes a car more of a chore to drive than a laborious clutch. Did that on a prior car -- just a minor performance clutch, not like a heavy duty beast -- and every light was a PITA. So ya, spot on!

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I've always gone with the idea of overbuilding certain parts of the project, primarily the fuel system, cooling system, etc. I applied that to the clutch as well, although it was more idiotic with the twin plate because I got it more because of status rather than performance or ease of use lol. "Hey, it'll look cool in pics", which are only taken when the engine is out or the tranny is out. Not a great idea. Although I did get it for a great price at $800 slightly used. Still a poor choice overall though. I'm really glad it's enjoyable to drive again.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

what would you say i do to my fuel system if im only running 10 ~ 12 psi on 99twins and bnr's?
stock airbox , stock cat or HFC with a RB single tip . oh and greddy SMIC and a pfc

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Drop in a Supra pump and 1300cc secondaries, get a tune and leave the rest alone.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

^Agreed. No need to go crazy on fuel for just that little bit of change. That's even a tad of overbuilding I would say, but I would do it just because it's more change than stock and it's better to be safe.

Another thing I'd add is that those 1300 secondaries be side feed so you can still use the stock fuel rails. I'm sure that's what Peter meant but he didn't mention it specifically and I thought I'd clarify just in case you didn't know.

cib24

You need to do nothing. The stock fuel system is fine for that power level. You can make 300-325 whp comfortably on the stock fuel setup. If you rewire the fuel pump to ensure it gives 13v all the time you can make roughly 400-425 whp on the stock pump (maybe more) but the stock injectors max out around 325-350 whp.

A lot of people underestimate the stock fuel pump for some reason but it is very similar to the Supra pump everyone raves about and can flow enough for 95% of all FD owners.

I have 99 spec twins and run about 13-14 PSI on the following setup with no issues whatsoever:

• Stock fuel pump, stock injectors.
• Stock air box and stock filter - 99 spec ducting upgrades for my car given the year so don't need to changet it.
• Stock SMIC although I have a Greddy SMIC to install.
• HKS Twin Power, BUR9EQs.
• Knight Sports Twin Tube Downpipe.
• RE-Amemiya 150 CPSI 3" high flow cat.
• Fujitsubo Legalised R 3" cat back.
• Koyo N-Flow.

280PS cars like mine run about 11 PSI from the factory. You have more than enough fuel in the stock setup to run 10-12 PSI on any twins.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

thanks guys for the input. gives me an idea of which direction I want to take my FD this time around

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Completely missed this post by Goodfella

Back to back to results in a direct comparison, nice.

However, I will still take my RB duals anyday. To me 20 RWHP is a decent trade off for a low key, non droning, good sounding exhaust. Because I'm at the point in my life where being low key trumps all.

M-

jza80

iTrader: (32)

Will the stock wiring handle the Supra pump as it is, including the voltage step change circuit?

cib24

Yes, it is a Denso pump just like the stock pump. They are really close in design with the Supra pump offering a bit more overall flow capability. Up to c.400 whp you can keep the stock pump so long as it is rewired to ensure it gets 13-14v at WOT rather than how the stock wiring setup usually results in 11.5v or less at WOT.

speedjunkie

iTrader: (3)

I don't know how much power I lost going from my GReddy Ti to the RB dual, but I'm with you, I don't care much because I like the decreased noise and drone, and the more stock look. I have stock ports anyway and I'm still making 430whp on 18psi with quick spool, that's enough for me.

I'm keeping the Ti though just in case I ever want to put it back on, and because it's fairly rare lol.

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

I went from Greddy Ti which is quite raspy to an OBX-R Ebay cat back.

I modified the OBXR so it was 100% straight through and it is 3.5" compared to the Greddy Ti which is 3".

The big cannister of the OBX-R looks more stock and gives the car a deep tone with no drone.

You don't have to sacrifice performance and use Racing Beat- you can use a better flowing catback and it will sound great as long as it has a big oval muffler.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

I have a resonated mp and the St. May exhaust and it is too loud for my taste. I am strongly considering switching to the RB exhaust. I was also thinking of switching to a muffler instead of the resonater to see if that gets rid of the drone.

Blue, do you have a sound clip by chance? You got me curious...

BLUE TII

iTrader: (9)

This is what the OBX-R cat back with resonated SMB high flow cat and downpipe sounds like from inside.

This is with stock catted downpipe, stock cat and OBX-R cat back. Bad sound from a flip phone-
but it really was raspier than the above aftermarket set-up (I think from smaller stock piping into 3.5" cat back piping and no resonator after cat like SMB.)
Small piping to big piping gives you the "Honda sound" in my experience.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

off topic but if you ever decide to switch ill take the ST may off your hands

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

What midpipe are you using? Is it the one with a big magnaflow muffler?

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

Kensin, I don't know if I could ever let go of this exhaust. It looks cool just hanging on the wall even lol. Unless I find a RE dual dolphin tip, that'd be kick ***. If I do decide to sell I'll contact you ;-)

I had my welder install a magnaflow 7" round resonater in a mp I had. It sounds nice and deep at idle and cruise, just drones too much for my taste tho. Its hard to have a conversation or talk on the phone. I don't know if the mp is to blame tho.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i have a JDM rx7 magazine with a muffler test in it, and its got DB readings of a bunch of different mufflers, including stock, at a couple of different rpm points. its also got a dyno run for each one, AND the frequency chart of the sound.

big take away? the bigger the muffler the quieter it was. pipe size didn't seem to matter

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Go with the larger oval shaped canister (basically the standard Magnaflow resonated MP sold by rx7store for many years and also by Banzai) and you'll lose most of the drone.

In my experience the round mufflers and 'cherry bomb' style pieces basically do jack **** when it comes to muffling the exhaust noise on a rotary