DaleClark's guide to vacuum lines and your FD
#26
Urban Combat Vet
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Opportune time to consider replacing the rubber fuel lines...maybe the coil harness and plug wires depending on how old yours are. None are all that expensive. I'd also think about a new UIM to LIM gasket.
#27
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
Great link on the FPD removal. Are there any negatives to not having a the damper? I would love to not spend the money on a new one. I figured I might need some manifold gaskets. I have new plug wires to install, I'll look into the coil harness. As much as I hate replacing parts that are not broken I really don't want to have to take it all apart later for something I should have done.
#28
Urban Combat Vet
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Can't comment personally on negatives. When did my rebuild I'd bought a replacement FDP before hearing about the deletion how-to. But I respect Chris Sanders' (Banzai Racing) opinion and he claims he's never had any issues. There should be some other "longitudinal" experiences from others by now. You could try searching or a separate thread.
#29
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
IF you go in that deep you can also consider removing the FPD altogether. ---> http://www.banzai-racing.com/pd_elimination_how-to.htm
Opportune time to consider replacing the rubber fuel lines...maybe the coil harness and plug wires depending on how old yours are. None are all that expensive. I'd also think about a new UIM to LIM gasket.
Opportune time to consider replacing the rubber fuel lines...maybe the coil harness and plug wires depending on how old yours are. None are all that expensive. I'd also think about a new UIM to LIM gasket.
#30
Neck Deep
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Another good choice for silicone hoses would be Baker Precision http://www.bakerprecision.com/hosetech.htm.
#32
I luv my carbon footprint
Join Date: Mar 2002
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I definitely agree on the hosetechniques recommendation. I did the rats nest and every other rubber hose under the hood 11 years ago and all the hoses are still good as new.
#35
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
I don't think you want to lubricate the hose as it goes on, wouldn't that make it easier for it to pop off? I guess if you zip tie them all it could be fine but without a barb at the end of most of the connections on the rats nest, I don't want to do anything to make it easier for the hose to move. I would not expect any of the connections to leak, especially if you zip tie them. That is my thinking on the matter. I don't mean to be critical
#36
10-8-10
iTrader: (7)
Consider the fuel pulsation damper delete if you have not already replaced the FPD. I did it according to the instructions and have had no issues. It was also much cheaper than buying the damper. If you still have your car in 15 years you might be glad you don't have to replace it again.
#38
Total Balance is Key
iTrader: (14)
Consider the fuel pulsation damper delete if you have not already replaced the FPD. I did it according to the instructions and have had no issues. It was also much cheaper than buying the damper. If you still have your car in 15 years you might be glad you don't have to replace it again.
#39
RX-7 Bad Ass
Thread Starter
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I typically spit or lick the end of the vacuum line before installation if it's being difficult. Works like a champ.
All of my vacuum lines require work to remove, they are DEFINITELY not going to pop off. This is on "old" SVH that has been heat cycled extensively.
Dale
All of my vacuum lines require work to remove, they are DEFINITELY not going to pop off. This is on "old" SVH that has been heat cycled extensively.
Dale
#40
Lovin' my R2
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I'm about to do the vacumn hose replacement on my stock 94 R2 and I have a question on what tie wraps to use, if I need to use them during the process. I'd rather have them and not need them then not have them and need them.
McMaster Carr has different ones from the standard nylon ties with a 185 deg rating (& metal lock tab), High Temp black nylon ties with 221 deg rating and High Temp Tefzel ties with a 302 deg rating.
Any suggestions?
McMaster Carr has different ones from the standard nylon ties with a 185 deg rating (& metal lock tab), High Temp black nylon ties with 221 deg rating and High Temp Tefzel ties with a 302 deg rating.
Any suggestions?
#45
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Can anyone provide info on sizes of the caps? When I click here McMaster there are many different sizes for the chemical resistant caps. I'm going to be putting my engine together very soon and plan to use the simplified sequential diagram for my twin turbo set-up. Thanks!