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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 04:16 PM
  #26  
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I would also like to know if your AIT is in the stock location on the UIM...
yes
Airborne is right; it's like a front mount, but with short pipes
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 06:30 PM
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pics of this would be helpful
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 09:08 PM
  #28  
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Pic request..have some pics, how do I post?
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:17 AM
  #29  
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pic 1

radiator without wheelwell screen
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:19 AM
  #30  
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rallimike, i heard you hooked those fans up to the stock system. anything tricky there?

oh and how are they mounted?
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:20 AM
  #31  
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pic 2

from the front
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:26 AM
  #32  
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pic 3

underhood
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:29 AM
  #33  
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Dave hooked them up, I believe he used the stock system and set the temp through the PFC. He welded bolts to the body
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #34  
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Sorry for the late entrance to the thread - dont know how I missed it.

But anyway I put the Greddy 2 Row FMIC in and upgraded to a Fluidine Radiator which I moved to the standard vertical mount. I couldnt bring myself to put the AC condensor back in between the IC and Rad so I left it out at that time with plans to come back and relocate it.

My car runs a steady 83-87 C and even on the hotest days of a NC summer I never saw temps above 90. I havent had any experience with tracking it so I cant be sure this setup would hold up under those conditions (hopefully I can give some real world experience on this soon).

The next stage of the plan is to get a single larger oil cooler and keep in the stock position and then to use this AC condesor on the other side:



Capacity with 200 cfm airflow* and 150C delta T** = 2,200 watts (7,500 btu/hr)

* Actual flow through coil
** The temperature difference between the refrigerant on the inside of the tube and the air flowing over the fins (average).

Part #012-0850
Price $179.95
Size 8"x8"x.3.50"
4 5/8" tube with 1/2" flare

This is four rows deep so the cooling area is very near our stock condensor and with a fan it should do the job.

Of course I havent done all the research as this hasnt been high on my list, but it looks like I might get to it this year now...

Shawn
www.3rdgenrx7.com/index2.htm
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 09:41 AM
  #35  
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ahhh. with welding involved and him splicing into the stock fan control it sounds like kd is in line for doing installs, i was hoping it could be a home project. course a buddy of mine is getting a tig welder....hmmm

thanks a ton for sharing rallimike, are you in touch with dave as far as the kit stuff? i know they have a bunch going on.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 03:19 PM
  #36  
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Talked a little with Dave on Wednesday. I would say there has been no progress made on testing the setup on a stock front end. There is a question of room for the radiators as presently configured, but that is not an insurmountable problem. I'm not sure there would be enough airflow through the stock side openings.
Seperately, I may have overdone the cooling thing. On the way up there, it was 17 degrees F. My Commander showed intake temps of -3C, and water temps of 80C. I had to turn the boost down to prevent the Aquamist from engaging and spraying ice into the intake.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:47 PM
  #37  
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Originally posted by rallimike
My Commander showed intake temps of -3C, and water temps of 80C. I had to turn the boost down to prevent the Aquamist from engaging and spraying ice into the intake.
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:29 PM
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rallimike,

80C, and this is with the stock 80/85 (start/full open) C thermostat?
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 08:06 AM
  #39  
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80C, and this is with the stock 80/85 (start/full open) C thermostat?

As far as I know, it is
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 01:22 PM
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it should open around 85ish and back down a bit
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Old Jan 17, 2004 | 01:43 PM
  #41  
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KDR may have put a different thermostat in some time ago. Don't know/remember.
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 08:29 AM
  #42  
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it is quite an achievement if you can actually say you've overdone cooling in an fd. seriously. once the weather warms up though it'll be plenty appropriate.
bummer about the stock front end stuff, having to buy a new bumper really ups the price on the mod, and i know i like the stock look. maybe just some cutting of the stock stuff?
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 10:27 AM
  #43  
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I did run it this way last summer. Never saw temps above 87C. Turnpike driving used to show 50C intake temps, now 28C-30C. Some part of the intake temp is the ceramic coated UIM & LIM, and maybe some from the phenolic spacer.
I don't know for sure that it won't fit stock front end; I need Dave to try it, and he hasn't gotten around to it. You know how KDR is
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 07:29 AM
  #44  
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shameless bump of a topic i'm really interested in.

if you're out there rallimike, what kind of intake setup are you using?
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 07:50 AM
  #45  
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I think it would be more efficient to leave the radiator in the biggest hole and use two intercoolers. Intercooler piping leaves one, goes across to the other one, and then back up. This has been done in Japan. I looked into it once. I think I was going to use 3000gt intercoolers, cus I believe that car uses the setup I just explained.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 08:23 AM
  #46  
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Intake setup is K&N filter directly mounted on the turbo I still plan to duct air to the IC, and will fabricate some kind of cold air intake as part of that project.
Crazy Jake- By "efficient", I suppose you mean more airflow? My setup has more than enough airflow, based on the results I'm getting. The main reason for doing this was not to improve cooling, but to minimize heat soak and keep the IC pipes as short and direct as possible. My intake temps run 7-10C above ambient, with no cold air intake and no ducting to the IC. Doing those 2 things should lower intake temps even more, but probably not by much. Colder intake temps=more HP
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 08:47 AM
  #47  
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what is the biggest advantage to shorter IC pipes? is there a pressure drop with longer pipes?

i guess the filter on the turbo works to get cold enough air with that setup, i was thinking you could build some sort of box with the front end open through the nose next to the ic ducting.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 09:06 AM
  #48  
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Originally posted by rallimike
Intake setup is K&N filter directly mounted on the turbo I still plan to duct air to the IC, and will fabricate some kind of cold air intake as part of that project.
Crazy Jake- By "efficient", I suppose you mean more airflow? My setup has more than enough airflow, based on the results I'm getting. The main reason for doing this was not to improve cooling, but to minimize heat soak and keep the IC pipes as short and direct as possible. My intake temps run 7-10C above ambient, with no cold air intake and no ducting to the IC. Doing those 2 things should lower intake temps even more, but probably not by much. Colder intake temps=more HP
Dang, only 7 to 10 degrees above ambient with the filter mounted directly on the turbo. Makes me think that cold air boxes are a waste of money.
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 09:30 AM
  #49  
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I also run my filters right at the turbo and dont have air temp problems. With a SMIC that I made myself thats similar in size to the M2med I would get 15-20 over ambient, however thats in the summer. I'd suspect the rest of your air temp cooling is coming from the ceramic coatings helping to keep the hot air from absorbing into the manifold system and heating up the air. Especailly since you have the "phenolic spacer" which I assume is somthing between the engine and lim similar to a type of gasket with low thermal conductivity. If so I'm working on something extremely similar right now that should work awesome.

Its always cool to see people step out on a limb and try something different. Thats how I like to mod my car as well

STEPHEN
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Old Jan 23, 2004 | 10:21 AM
  #50  
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someone else posted phenolic spacer stuff and got shouted down a while back. is there someone out there with a template to pump some out for fd's? should try a group buy if so. and then putting that
in makes for a good opportunity to jetcoat the U+L manifolds. thats gotta help a ton, especially in the fight against heatsoak.
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