MAZMART

It looks like BR70-50-OZ2 (6), 9072-00-616 (6) and 9926-50-625 (3).

These would be the part numbers and quantities at your local dealership. Also the under cover itself should be FD01-56-1B0C

Paul.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

is it universal for all bumpers? i have the 99 bumper with lip...

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Should work on both but the holes may not line up. Get the 99 undertray if you have the option.

However, the undertray alone probably won't drop the temps 30*F. Something isn't quite right with your coolant system. Either you still have air in the system or a problem with your thermostat or water pump.

Did you do a coolant system pressure test as dgeesman suggested?

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

i'll do the test as soon as i put everything back together. i have it apart because i got new gaskets for the water pump housing hoping it will fix a leak coming from no where...

i also got a new oem thermostat and i soaked the water pump in CLR for 2 days and lubed the hell out of the spring thing. it spins freely and looks brand new. the CLR really got a lot of gunk and rust and whatever off of it.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

new update. everything is back together and this....

http://youtu.be/88MxxZhNeec

i checked it this morning after that happened last night and i took off the filler neck cap to check the level and there was a suction sound like when you open a pickle jar and the water level was at the top. also, the overflow bottle is now empty instead of way above full like it was last night when i shut it down.

what do i do? =[

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, that is pretty normal after you've had the coolant system apart and haven't fully bled the system of air yet. You'll hear the cap at the filler neck pop like that.

Also pretty normal for the overflow bottle to empty out after you've had the coolant system apart and haven't fully bled the system of air yet. All that coolant gets sucked back into the main system during cool down.

That is why a lot of people use that yellow funnel by Lisle to help get air out of the system. (see the coolant thread in the FAQ if you don't know what I'm referring to).

I couldn't hear what you were referring to while the car was running but will try and check again when it is quieter in here...

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

cool. i remember reading somewhere that the cap doing that isnt good for some reason... i forget..

i ordered my lisle but getting it here to an apo address takes forever. is there an alternative to it that i can use in the meantime?

the sound im talking about can be heard long after shut down. its the boiling sound that sounds like hell coming from my overflow bottle. is that normal as well since all the coolant is being sucked into the motor? im just going to keep filling the overflow instead of the neck since the water level is always at the top and i cant pour it in anyway...

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Keep 'burping' the system over the course of 5 or so heat cycles. Burp it, let the car warm up so the thermostat opens and circulates, let it cool. When cold, top it off and repeat. It will take 5 or so hot/cold cycles to bleed the air out in my experience.

After shut down, you will hear a decent amount of noise as the coolant system cools and sucks in extra coolant from the overflow bottle. Sounds like a sloppy sucking noise. If you have any leaks anywhere in the coolant system, air will also be sucked in. For example, if one of the coolant clamps are tired/loose, air will be sucked in from the joint.



Back to your vid. On warm up, I'm not sure what it means if it's pushing air into the overflow. It is difficult to isolate any noise from the overflow bottle from the background noise. At least it is for me.

You really should do a coolant system pressure test to try and isolate any leaks.


Mind you, I'm no expert on coolant seals and have never experienced a bad coolant seal. I have experienced every other coolant system problem though - worn clamps (replaced with OEM since they are constant torque), bad worm type hose clamps that keep loosening up or chewing hoses so that they leak, brittle hoses that don't seal etc.

cr-rex

iTrader: (114)

i did the bleed process a couple more times until i couldnt get any more bubbles from either radiator hoses. i noticed when the temp got up to 190F the fans werent on... blown 60A. replaced. fans are operational again. drove around all day today and even pushed it a little bit and the temp stayed between 188F and 200F. it only kissed 200 a couple times then would plummet to 195 or upper 180s. sitting in rush hour the temp dropped to 170s with the heater off. everytime i parked the car i looked for leaks and bubbles around any coolant lines i could see. neither were found. no strange sounds... nothing.

not sure what kind of witchcraft is going on with this car but its running "cool" i guess. i enjoyed having my fd back for a day before it goes under the knoife for this transplant. its been down about a month and ive been stuck driving the wifes civic.. =[

either way, ALL DAY it ran perfectly. the madness that happened in the video didnt happen as well either...

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Nice

That witchcraft is probably the result of bleeding all (or most) of the air out of the system. Air in the coolant system is bad voodoo and is a total bitch to get out.