what are th signs of a coolant seal going bad or gone bad and the only way to fix it is to have engine rebuilt right if so where can i get the best deal

 

you would be puffing white smoke, You would be smelling a semi sweet smell.. Coolant would be disapearing.. If your Fd is letting off whitesmoke after its at normal operating temp.. you got a blown seal more then likely

 

it makes blueish gray smoke at start up then no smoke when it reaches normal operating temp just coolant isnt being sucked up back in the system from the overflow and ideas

 

1. Replace your radiator cap.
2. Check for leaks in the lines to/from the overflow tank.

The bluish smoke is oil burning off, either your oil control rings are going or your turbos are going. You should be able to wait a while to fix either.

 

I agree with ryneberg, replace your radiator cap. I had a problem with coolant not being returned to the engine and a new cap fixed it. Also read this thread, it may answer some more of your questions.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=260200

 

ok i am going to the dealer to get new caps also should i replce the overflow hose that goes to the ast also just to be safe mine has a plastic connector conecting the 2 hoses i dont no if that is factory or someone esle did it before i bought the car thanks guys for all ur help i will let u no if it fixes it

 

I always feel sad when I read these threads about the coolant seals going. So many of us have been through this already with our own FD's.

Good luck to you! If your coolant seal is shot and your like me or so many others on the forum, you'll rebuild a stronger and faster car then you had before!

 

well see i will rebuild a better motor but now money is involved i bought a new motor this time last year from a guy for 2500 and the guy never sent me the motor so ihad to save to buy another one and now i hope this one isnt shot so if it is i am going to wait for awhiel anyone no anybody who can do a good rebuid cheap

 

would their be water in the oil if a coolant seal goes bad???

 

Yes, if it pops on that side you may have sludge in the oil.

Other wise I agree with everyone. It's not likly to have poped on that side because that is the cold side, but it could.

I would go get a coolant system pressure test done and look for leaks. If pressure does not drop over time, the system is good. If it loose pressure watch for leaks, no leaks, check for hard start and white smoke.

 

And if you get another engine, GET A REMAN. From Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda. Look around here to see what it has, and it really WILL come to you!!

 

i put the new caps in and it started up just fine like it always does a little smoke but it is blueish grey but it leaks out the overflow still even when it is not warm it just doesnt make any sense to me i will to a coolant syste check tommorow can i do it myself or do i have to take it somehwere???

 

There is not necessarily ANY sort of smoke. My coolant seal(s) went out and all I had was the cooling system being pressurized by the compression of the engine, resulting in coolant being forced out the overflow.

The 'block sealer trick' DOES work. I drove my car several thousand miles after successfully sealing the leaky 'O' rings.
I also COMPLETELY stopped up my heater core though....lol.

Do you have gurgling sounds coming from the heater core? It will sound like it is coming from the passenger side floorwell.
Sure sign, along with the coolant forced out the overflow.

 

what is the block sealer trick please explain more to me on how to do this is it good or bad thing to do

 

There are a couple of products out there such as CRC Blockweld that use a suspended copper amalgam in sodium silicate solution. You use this product to effectively seal leaky coolant systems. It really does work wonders.
You MUST drain out ALL your glycol based coolant prior to using this. This involves a laborious multiple flushing of your car's cooling system. When I did mine I drained and refilled it about 7 times, and in fact used a Castrol Super Clean flush-and-fill one of the times. You have to have ALL the antifreeze out of the system or it will clog your radiator and turbo-cooling lines.
Once you have all the coolant out, you simply add the Blockweld and fill with water. Use distilled water only, by the way. Run the engine for a few hours or longer.
I had to seal mine twice, actually. I didn't have a full seal until I just left the product in over the summer. Drove it a couple of thousand miles, and only drained it out and put antifreeze back in when the first freeze hit last fall.
It is a cheap fix for the coolant 'O' rings failing, some (like me) have had it work for thousands and thousands of miles.
It is worth a try if you don't have the money or time for a rebuild right now.
Do a search about "block sealer" and you should find a WEALTH of information.

 

ok what is the easiest way to flush the system do i just keep putting water in it until i see no anitfreeze?? also when i put the blick sealer in it and i add distilled water how long do i run the mixture like when can i drain it and put antifreeze in it also how will i no when it has worked and sealed my seal?? thanks for all ur help

 

You start by taking off the undertray at the front of the car so you can get to the radiator drain. Drain the coolant after letting the car warm up to operating temperature, refill and drain again a few times. This is the time consuming part, as you have to allow a little bit of time to where you aren't scalding the **** out of yourself when you drain the water out. Once you have done SEVERAL flush and fill cycles (and I recommend doing one with some conventional radiator cleaner or good old CASTROL SUPER CLEAN, use about 4 oz. of Super Clean in a gallon of water) you can mix up your sealer and water (distilled only) and add it to the car.
It is extremely important that you have all the antifreeze out. This means you have to flush the overflow reservoir also. Some guys also take the drain plug out of the block to make SURE all the residual coolant is out.
Anyway, once you have your sealer/distilled water mix in, you need to run it for several hours. I would heat-cycle the engine several times. Do some light driving, stay off the boost!
Now, as I said before and others will agree, sometimes the best thing to do is to leave the sealer in for a LONG time. Some folks that don't have to worry about freezing conditions just leave it in, though there are waterpump lubrication issues and corrosion issues that can pop up doing this. I for one didn't have much luck the first time I did the sealer. Within a few weeks of draining the sealer and going back to antifreeze I was having a leak problem again. So, the second time I sealed it was in the spring, and I just left the sealer and water in all spring and summer. Then when fall/winter came I drained it out and went back to antifreeze and it has held just fine. My heater core IS plugged now though, which really sucks. I will be changing it while I am waiting on my new engine.
Hope this helps!

 

This sounds like a blown seal on the combustion side. You will often get combustion pressures in the cooling system when that side goes. This is why you push coolant out the over flow cold or hot. If you watch the over flow tube when you rev it, most likly the amount pf coolant coming out will increase with RPM.

This is just a device that take place of one of your radiator caps. It has a hand pump so increase the pressure of your cooling system with out the car being warm or on. You should try for 15-16 psi.