Coolant Pressure Testing
I don't think the radiator position has any bearing on your problem. Many people with FMIC's run the radiator straight up and don't have serious cooling issues.
As for the AST, I did eliminate mine. However, it does make getting the air out of them system much more difficult. IMO, remove the AST if you plan on running a zero pressure Evans system; keep it if you plan to run normal pressurized coolant/water mixture system.
As for the AST, I did eliminate mine. However, it does make getting the air out of them system much more difficult. IMO, remove the AST if you plan on running a zero pressure Evans system; keep it if you plan to run normal pressurized coolant/water mixture system.
I don't think the radiator position has any bearing on your problem. Many people with FMIC's run the radiator straight up and don't have serious cooling issues.
As for the AST, I did eliminate mine. However, it does make getting the air out of them system much more difficult. IMO, remove the AST if you plan on running a zero pressure Evans system; keep it if you plan to run normal pressurized coolant/water mixture system.
As for the AST, I did eliminate mine. However, it does make getting the air out of them system much more difficult. IMO, remove the AST if you plan on running a zero pressure Evans system; keep it if you plan to run normal pressurized coolant/water mixture system.
Thanks for the info.
7-23-07 *UPDATE*
Over the weekend I fabed up a shroud for my radiator.
There is now no way air coming through the intercooler can bypass the radiator.
So, I got the coolant topped off, installed the new 13psi cap and took a drive around town.
It was about 9 PM and still about 80 degrees F outside.
Temps held great around town. PFC didn't rise about 87C. Stop and go driving, 25 to 40 mph.
Then I took it out on the highway doing about 65 mph in 5th gear up a hill the temps climbed a little (up to 94C). So I turned around and came back into town. As I got back into town and slowed down to about 45 in 4th gear the temps dropped back down to about 89C.
I drove around in town for another 15 minutes with the temps holding great.
Then I started south of town on the highway. Just outside of town is a large gradual hill that is about 1.5 miles long. Going up the hill in 5th gear at about 65 mph I am pushing about 1 to 2 psi just on a steady pull. The temps started climbing again. They rose up to about 100C before I turned around.
One thing about highway driving is that when I crest a hill and start leveling out, the temps don't drop back down for me. They will just hold and then the next hill they will climb a little more.
As where in town they are pretty consistant, even when getting on the car pretty good.
So, the ducting did drop the temps a little, but it still hasn't solved the highway heating problem.
So, whats next? Does this pretty much mean a rebuild?
If the engine is under a load while climbing a hill and exhaust gases are escaping into the coolant system, would this heat up the coolant more rapidly? Could the exhaust gases be causing the overheating of the coolant system?
One more thing to mention. Before I went for a drive the overfill tank was just under the "F" at normal cold conditions. I checked it after the drive and it was about 4 notches over the "F". I checked it again Sunday morning before driving it and it was at the same level as the night before. So I think that while driving the exhaust gases are pushing some of the coolant into the overfill tank and not letting it return to the system. I may have a bad o-ring that is allowing exhaust gases to escape into the coolant, but not necessarily letting coolant into the engine while its shut down.
Thanks, Josh
Over the weekend I fabed up a shroud for my radiator.
There is now no way air coming through the intercooler can bypass the radiator.
So, I got the coolant topped off, installed the new 13psi cap and took a drive around town.
It was about 9 PM and still about 80 degrees F outside.
Temps held great around town. PFC didn't rise about 87C. Stop and go driving, 25 to 40 mph.
Then I took it out on the highway doing about 65 mph in 5th gear up a hill the temps climbed a little (up to 94C). So I turned around and came back into town. As I got back into town and slowed down to about 45 in 4th gear the temps dropped back down to about 89C.
I drove around in town for another 15 minutes with the temps holding great.
Then I started south of town on the highway. Just outside of town is a large gradual hill that is about 1.5 miles long. Going up the hill in 5th gear at about 65 mph I am pushing about 1 to 2 psi just on a steady pull. The temps started climbing again. They rose up to about 100C before I turned around.
One thing about highway driving is that when I crest a hill and start leveling out, the temps don't drop back down for me. They will just hold and then the next hill they will climb a little more.
As where in town they are pretty consistant, even when getting on the car pretty good.
So, the ducting did drop the temps a little, but it still hasn't solved the highway heating problem.
So, whats next? Does this pretty much mean a rebuild?
If the engine is under a load while climbing a hill and exhaust gases are escaping into the coolant system, would this heat up the coolant more rapidly? Could the exhaust gases be causing the overheating of the coolant system?
One more thing to mention. Before I went for a drive the overfill tank was just under the "F" at normal cold conditions. I checked it after the drive and it was about 4 notches over the "F". I checked it again Sunday morning before driving it and it was at the same level as the night before. So I think that while driving the exhaust gases are pushing some of the coolant into the overfill tank and not letting it return to the system. I may have a bad o-ring that is allowing exhaust gases to escape into the coolant, but not necessarily letting coolant into the engine while its shut down.
Thanks, Josh
Blithering Idiot
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 354
Likes: 5
From: NE Pa
That's exactly how the system is supposed to work. The coolant expands when it gets hot and the pressure cap lets the excess flow into the expansion tank. The coolant gets sucked back into the engine as it cools down.
I don't think it would return to the same level if you had a significant coolant seal problem.
I don't think it would return to the same level if you had a significant coolant seal problem.
