Every other day, my add coolant starts to beep. I notice that my coolant filler neck(by the fender) is always full. Coolant is always missing from the water neck on the water pump housing and the AST. Is my thermostat not opening up? Why is my full on the coolant fill cap side and not in the water neck?

 

Maybe the valve leading to the overflow tank is bad. Either way, check the coolant level at the filler neck not the overflow tank.

 

Make sure you have the caps on right first. The flat cap goes on the filler neck, the pressure cap (with spring on inside) goes on the AST.

Otherwise I have a FD with the same issue right now. The hose to the overflow tank is not original, someone replaced it with a hose that does not reach the bottom of the overflow tank. When the car warms up it naturally will spit a little coolant out (thermal expansion of coolant) into the overflow tank. When it cools down it is supposed to suck some coolant from the overflow tank into the engine. Well if the hose doesn't reach the coolant, it sucks up is air. This will cause the add coolant buzzer to beep when the car is cold, buzzer shuts off when warm.

Otherwise if the coolant tank is filling up your O-rings can be going bad, the combustion gases will get into the coolant jacket and spit the coolant out. This should be a constant thing and not just something that happens when cold.

Jeff

 

Well, im thinking that I might have a bad O ring. I opened the filler cap, and saw what looked like a soft drink when you open a can up. It was fizzing with white bubbles(when the car was immediately shut off). So im gonna take it in to have the coolant system pressured tested and Ill go from there.

 

Is there any way to tighten up some bolts and hopefully stop the leak pass the water jacket (like tightening up the head gasket, so to speak). Is there no other fix than a rebuild?

 

yeah, you can tighten up after you crack it open and rebuild it.

try disconecting the engine harness from the coil harness. crank motor and then remove a plug. look at it. is it all wet with coolant? (a litte gas would be normal if no spark is present) but see what else is on the plug...
is it harder to start after an extended sit?
i highly doubt it on your motor, but i have actualy had a motor that was so bad that the "wall" caved in around the water seals.

 

Actually yes, everytime you have the tranny off you should also retorque the main engine bolts. This is something I recently learned about. What happens is when the engine gets hot the difference in thermal expansion between the side housings and rotor housings causes the bolt tension to loosen. This is one cause of premature coolant o-ring failure. If you wait until you have o-ring failure symptoms it may be too late however.