Sorry to bring this up, but currently interested in what hose clamps most are running with silicone hoses. I have the N-flo with mishimoto hoses. The engine and everything is only has maybe 1200-1500 miles (gotta check). It appears with these cooler temps in south FL I developed a couple leaks which are quickly solved by tightening the clamps (regular cheapy worm gear hose clamps).

Curious to what others are running. Should I get the mishimimoto T-clamps?

 

For radiator hoses, small t bolts are what you need. Using perforated worm clamps on silicone isn't really advised for obvious reasons. Any rolled edge stainless or aluminum t bolt is acceptable

 

Stock spring clamps with stock hoses. I only used silicone for vacuum lines. I never saw any need for silicone radiator hoses etc. I’ve also heard some aren’t really sized right for the FD....could that be your leaking issue?

 

If you *really* want to do it right, get some spring-loaded t-bolts. You may need to change size, I don't know/remember the radiator piping size since I went to AN lines about 7 years ago..

https://vibrantperformance.com/catal...1b65947149c22f

 

Some of the aftermarket silicone radiator hoses don't fit that well. Unless you have a distinct need for them for some reason, OEM is better - better fit and most likely longer life.

That said, I use OEM spring clamps on all coolant hoses. They fit right, provide the right amount of constant tension on the hose, and don't cut into the hose. They may work on aftermarket silicone radiator hoses if the OD is the same.

For worm-drive type clamps I love Norma-Torro clamps. All stainless, they have a rolled gear on the clamp so it doesn't bite into the hose and they are fine thread allowing you to really get some tension on a clamp. I use them on all my intercooler and intake plumbing. They also have a "soft" trailing edge so you don't cut yourself on them. Amazon and Clips and Fasteners sells them. They are rated for very specific sizes, though, so you do have to make sure to buy the size that's in the clamping range you need.

Dale

 

Cheapy worm gear clamps will tear silicone. You'll want a constant tension clamp. Stock is good, but not sure how it will pair with the silicone hoses. I stumbled across this which looks pretty good

https://precisionbrand.com/products/...er-pack-of-10/

If you need to replace your hoses, go with stock

 

Thanks all. I ordered the mishimoto hoses when I bought the N-Flo. I was going to go OEM, but figured I will get everything from this vendor on his recommendation. I wasn't sure about the stock clamps on mishimoto so I had the builder supply clamps.
I will try to figure out something soon. I may be putting my AST back on and if that is the case I may change the hoses back to stock.
Now will the stock hoses work just fine on the N-Flo radiator? I forgot with all the threads I've dead at this point.

 

I just re-used the stock spring clamps when I changed over to silicone coolant hoses and have not had any issues.

 

Thx Mecman I was thinking Bout giving that a try.

 

The OEM Mazda hoses will fit the Koyo N-flow perfectly. I got a set of new OEM upper/lower hoses from Ray Crowe when I did my Koyo install. Can't say how well the OEM AST hose fits though, as mine is deleted.

 

Thanks Pete. I will order OEM from Ray tomorrow.

My overflow hose gets kind of kinked up with the IC hose so I am not sure it is "breathing" or expanding properly. The last thing I want at this point is an issue with freekin hose clamps or over heating because of an ast delete.


I just turned the IC pipe around a tiny bit, but not sure it it will help.

 

I'm using Breeze constant pressure hose clamps with oem hoses on a Koyo. no issues thus far.

 

If for some reason you have to go aftermarket hose clamps (like silicon hose on a custom vmount in my case...), these are good clamps to use. Otherwise, stock hoses and stock clamps are the way to go.

 

Thank you guys for all the help. I pretty much finished up the tune this evening and it will be time to get all the other odds and ends taken car of. This being one of the 1st.

 

I prefer Murray clamps now.

They are worm gear with a spring built in around the band for constant tension.

T- bolt clamps I used for decades tighten unevenly so you have to really crank them down and damage the hose.

 

Hard to tell from the pic if it’s pinched or just “crowded” by the crossover. If you must, source a (S6 OEM?) housing w/o the integrated extension and add a Banzai filler neck. The nipple is clocked pointing forward and should solve the problem.

 

Awesome thanks for the info. I will definitely get on that. I would prefer to keep the ast deleted for clutter, but so want to address this semi quickly. Yours looks perfect.
I still have my new Pettit AST if needed.

 

I prefer this OEM piece for the filler neck, it has a 90 degree bend tube so the overflow tank hose goes straight up to it.



+1 on the Breeze constant pressure hose clamps, I use them on OEM or silicone coolant hose with good result.

I actually use them on the power steering reservoir hose as well and they are doing a good job.

 

Thanks for the input.... now if I could only get them on without taking the hoses off

 

So the OEM filler neck has no nipple, the nipple for the overflow is on the AST. When you bypass the AST most people have traditionally gotten the FC neck -

http://essexrotarystore.com/wp-conte...DeleteKi-2.jpg

It's plastic, but it works. Banzai has an aluminum copy of it now.

All that to say I've NEVER seen one like that before, maybe it's from some other Mazda? Any idea on that?

Dale

 

Gates PowerGrip heat shrink clamps are pretty nice. I'll probably do those next time I remove my hoses in a few years and there should be no problem with silicone hoses.

 

^ Forgot about those. A good friend of mine uses those and loves them. They look great and I’m thinking fewer bloody knuckles than previously when working in area of the spring clamps. I may try them at some point too. The only downside is they’re one use only. it’s just that I’m thinking a guy should keep spares in the various sizes just in case.

 

Yeah, one use only and around $5 each so not good if you pull things apart regularly but definitely could help reduce bloody knuckle occurrences!

 

I'm not 100% sure, the first time I saw it was at a local car show, the owner told me it was from some old school rotary but it is OEM. I like it more than the FC neck because the nipple is pointing down so no bent on the hose, and it is made out of metal. The original color is actually kind of bronze, I just painted it silver to match the rest of the neck.

I never really found out what car it came from, I bought the one in this picture from the FS section here 5-6 years ago, I think from someone who was selling a bunch of random part and I just happen to spot it in the picture. I do have another one that I bought on eBay last year, same thing, the guy was just selling a filler neck that he no longer need and this piece was attached to it so I snatched it up for the R1 I'm restoring.

So I do have 2 of these, one of them is just sitting in a box so I can definitely take more picture of it if you like

 

I found on my racecar that using a light coating of silicon grease between the hose and the hose clamp minimizes the uneven tightening issue and makes getting a leak-free joint MUCH easier. With the silicon grease one also does not have to tighten the clamp nearly as much to get a leak-free joint as w/o it. The silicon lets the clamp slide over the hose while tightening and minimizes the bunching-up you would otherwise get at the clamp overlap.

On the racecar, repeated hose R&R with no lube was a recipe for damaged hoses and leaks. Since using the lube, they last essentially for ever.