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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:44 PM
  #26  
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hey nah i dont have an aftermarket intake elbow, could it be that the hose has popped off or something?? where does the pipe attach??
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:45 PM
  #27  
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oh I have also read that switching the o2 sensor off on the pfc could possiably help, i did that last nite but havnt had a drive as of yet, please let me know if this is a bad thing to do lol thanks mark
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 06:44 PM
  #28  
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I went to check my TPS and noticed my air pump wasnt working. Check yours spins at idle.

If the frontal part isnt spinning at idle, this would mean the car runs rich at idle, stalls, and then is hard to start because of the excess fuel in the chambers which caused to car to stall.

Im changing mine tomorrow, ill let you know how i get on.
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 07:03 PM
  #29  
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ahh thats right will check now, does it matter if the airpump is not plugged in??
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 07:08 PM
  #30  
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just plugged it in and checked, it wasnt spinning before i plugged in and now it does but car still stalls.... thanks
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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 08:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by schwass
vta2 closed .50. so the only reading that i can see that is out and its not by much is the vta2 at .50 when the guidelines seem to want it at .75 - 1.25 . do i need to adjust the tps according to these readings or not???? thanks mark
That could be your problem. The reading should be between 0.75 and 1.25. This is the part of the TPS that will be a problem off idle. Go adjust it and see what happens.
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 02:45 AM
  #32  
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sweet as i will try for tomorrow, i dont think i need the multi meter to do the job so it will be easy, i got my last readings off the pfc commander, just might be a 2 person job, will be hard to read commander while adjusting tps, thanks
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Old Apr 29, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #33  
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I have adjusted slack out of throttle cabel, but then it started raining so will try for tps later, but have been running the car and it hasnt stalled, has been running for about 15-20mins and normally it would stall by now, will let you know, thanks

Last edited by schwass; Apr 29, 2006 at 09:43 PM.
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Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #34  
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hey there, I seem to have managed to fix the prob, so far i have adjusted dashpot, checked but not adjusted the tps, adjusted the fuel cut values on the pfc, then adjusted the throttle cable, plugged the air pump back in and also turned off the o2 sensor via the pfc commander but then turned it back on again after car was running, and the prob seems to be fixed, no more stalling, so thanks to everyone that has helped, the info was most appreicated and we have fixed the problem, thanks mark
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Old May 2, 2006 | 01:52 AM
  #35  
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well i have to take that back, i was out driving today and has stalled about 6 times which is much improved from before when it would stall every time i came to a stop, this time the idle is surging and it changes with different electrical loads, so i will try a idle re learn on the pfc and if that dont fix it i will try tps adjustment, ...... the same as all the rest i spose the saga continues lol
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Old May 2, 2006 | 07:35 AM
  #36  
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Dude, check your air pump is working. I had the EXACT same problem with mine, i put a new air pump on and now it works great.
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Old May 2, 2006 | 11:10 PM
  #37  
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Hey,

Plz find the cure to this problem I have been having the same exact problems for a while now...

At first my problems started when the car was warmed up and I turned on the A/C...But now when it gets warmed up it tends to stall at every red light...And is a PAIN in the *** to start back up...

Damn I wanna know the cure...I dont care how much it cost to fix it...Its just getting so old now...

Thanks,
Shawn
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Old May 3, 2006 | 05:42 AM
  #38  
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anyone found a cure yet?
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Old May 4, 2006 | 03:16 AM
  #39  
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nobody fixed this?
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Old May 4, 2006 | 05:00 PM
  #40  
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I have sussed out with mine that it only stalls when the ac is on as soon as i switch the ac on the idle starts surging and then stall, im going to try a relearnnon the pfc and will let u no
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Old May 5, 2006 | 02:46 AM
  #41  
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I think it may be the ISC to be honest (under the UIM, controls the idle) as i adjusted my idle today to 1000rpms with AC on. Now when i switch AC off, Idle jumps up to 1500!!!

Try the same with yours - let me know how it goes. If you have the same symptoms, i have a spare ISC i can throw in there to check if it is the problem and ill let you know how it goes.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #42  
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Mine did the same thing. I put my idle speed controller back in and it works better now. my ISC is old so i need to replace it. You may need to do the same on yours.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 06:22 PM
  #43  
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hey thanks for the info, what is the isc? idle ??sumthing control?? or ...... i have just disconnected battery and reset the pfc and have done a idle relearn with the different electrical loads and now i cant fault the idle at all, no more stalling, will know more when we go for a drive...... will let you guys know, are any of you running a pfc??
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Old May 5, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #44  
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isc = idle speed controller. Its connected to the back side of the upper intake manifold, looks like a small cylinder with an electrical connection on it. It bypasses the air to allow the car to catch idle before stalling.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 05:24 AM
  #45  
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just been out for a drive and dam it still stalling...... i will try adjusting isc as i still dont think it is the tps as the car runs fine no hunting or anything, thanks mark
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Old May 6, 2006 | 09:24 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by schwass
just been out for a drive and dam it still stalling...... i will try adjusting isc as i still dont think it is the tps as the car runs fine no hunting or anything, thanks mark
What are you trying to get the car to idle at? 800RPM? 900RPM? 1000RPM?

Let me know, i can tell you how to make adjustments and to adjust your ISC to catch it.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 06:40 PM
  #47  
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hey man, yeah that would be good, an idle of 800rpm would be sweet, that is what it is adjusted to with the pfc, what adjustments do you recommend?
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Old May 6, 2006 | 09:55 PM
  #48  
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There are 3 screws you can adjust...

1.) The main idle screw, sits right in front of the throttle body, has a small locking nut on the bottom.

2.) The small threaded bolt that moves left to right

3.) The small screw behind the throttle body


In order to fix that idle problem.. leave the 1st and the 3rd ones alone. Adjust the 2nd one, you can see it in the 2nd picture listed. You can lower or raise the idle using the 1st or 3rd.. but usually once the 1st one is good.. you shouldn't have to move it again.

Like I said, try adjusting the screw in the 2nd picture. Loosen the nut and move the screw a few turns to the right with your fingers, and then retighten the nut, take it for a drive and see if that helps. Remember to pull the throttle control a couple times after adjusting it so the car and re-settle at it's new idle. That way you know if you went too far and it idles too high.



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Old May 20, 2006 | 03:14 AM
  #49  
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hey guys thanks for that, i have been playing around for the last week or so and seem to hav it ideling sweet, a little high at 1000rmp with no electrical load, but with load it running fine at 850- 900, so thanks to everyone for there help, on to my next probs now, it has started leaking a little bit of oil from in the engine bay sumwhere, and smokes and fills the car up with smoke if fans are on when parked at intersection....... and when i park it up it is now heating up to about 108' deg c with the engine off and boiling out the ast so when i go to start up again the add coolant buzzer comes on and i have to chuck in about 1 litre, so will serarch on those and see what i can find, unless someone can shed sum light quickly for me thanks mark
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Old May 20, 2006 | 10:26 AM
  #50  
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Oil in the engine bay usually comes from a few common places... though not limited to just these places.

1.) The orange crush washers that seal the oil lines (usually near the pedestal)
2.) The oil filter not seated well on the pedestal
3.) Turbo feed lines

As for the coolant issue.

1.) The radiator hoses (check lower and upper) they tend to crack over time.
2.) The coolant feed lines that hook to the coolant filler neck and go to the turbo
3.) If you're running a plastic AST it may have cracked.
4.) Be sure to burp your coolant system... start it up and keep filling it up via the filler neck and leave the ast cracked open. Let the coolant bubble over the filler neck a little bit and then keep adding more. Eventually you'll get all the air out of the coolant system.
5.) Let the car run, when it starts to heat up, park the car and open the hood (while running) and see if you can find the source of the leak, that worked well for me. Be sure to keep an eye on the coolant temp, you don't want it to get too hot and screw up the engine.

-Darren-
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