TimeMachine

iTrader: (10)

Start with the fuel and ignition... the flywheel and airbox aren't really a problem. If an eBay ecu blows your motor, then you will be much worse off than now.

mdpalmer

iTrader: (24)

Just try to eliminate one thing at a time, I know how frustrated you probably are. Just take a deep breath and try not to let this bother you too much. I've been pretty frustrated too with some other stuff lately but now I can breath a sigh of relief... because I got my horsepower back thanks to new OEM coil packs and an updated ignition harness My car runs leaner by almost 0.3 AFR than before when it's idling! It feels great, I'm so stoked.

IOW, double check your ignition, plugs, wires, wiring to the coils, coils themselves, ground strap on the ign harness, igniter, etc, among everything else people suggested. In case you didn't know, the old ign harness has a ground strap, the new updated one does not. Pics

OLD:


NEW:

twan

iTrader: (2)

Guys, Thanks i really have lost almost all my patience with this but I will try to fall back. In fact , thats why I've been MIA for a minute. I just couldn't take it anymore. In my down time, however, I was thinking; aside from all of your suggestions, which I really, really appreciate, I tried to lay out the actual prob which seem to be the air/fuel ratio after warmup. I mean if I can drive the car fine when shes cold, but everything falls to s**t after warmup, then it's either air or fuel. So 1 thing I was thinking was that if I could measure the resistance of the thermosensor while cold and find a resistor of that value. Well, I would disconnect the plug and put the resistor across the plug connectors. My thinking is that the ecu will think shes always cold.
Then I thought, and this probably makes more sense; I didn't block off the ICS with a plate. in fact, it's still active. Maybe when the engine warms up, it's opening and throwing the ratio off. So if I use the blok off and eliminate the ICS, My prob might go away. What cha think???

twan

iTrader: (2)

I really dont want to eliminate my ICS because I have read some other post and the cooperative idea is that she will idle so much better with it. The problem is, however, I cant tell if it's that which is causing my problem or not. Here are the symptoms again!

When I start her cold, (Which ist that easy. I have to turn the idle screw down to open the plates a bit so she'll run.) She idles a little low but she starts. At this point, Iam able to drive her. And she runs great. Meaning I can actually move the vehicle down the street. Although she is running really, really rich. When she warms up, however, the idle surges. Like shes getting a major amout of air. I have to back the idle screw out to lower the rpm to a more normal level but I cant move her. She stalls when I put her in a forward gear. Reverse is ok but when I try to more forward, she dies. It's almost like the ICS is working in reverse with the idle and I don't even know what when it comes to the drivability problem. I assume that at this point, the AFR is to lean for any power!!!

Thats where the idea for the resistor on the water sensor came from. If I can trick the computer into thinking she cold all the time, well the AFR might stay where it is and allow me to drive her.

TimeMachine

iTrader: (10)

Dude, no offense, but the old "I appreciate your advise, but I know better" routine is bullshit. Don't keep guessing. Work backwards until it runs well. Use OEM parts. "Tricking" the ECU is only going to make things worse- two wrongs don't make a right. Honor your car and fix it right. Report back.

twan

iTrader: (2)

No offense taken and I definitely agree but heres an update. I got her started and drove her to the nearest gas station which is about 3 to 4 blocks away. Kept her ideling while I filled up and then drove her home. She ran great. Then once I got her home, I disconnected the ICS and took her for another spin. She ran great again. she behaved like this for about 30 to 40 minutes. maybe even longer. Then I realized, There was something I neglected to mention. When I was having issues with the MSD, Something happened to the B+ supply to the solenoids under the UIM. This was before I moved them. So i think thats why I forgot about it. Well anyway, I created a bridge supply directly to their common positive from the yellow relay in the fuse box under the hood. (cant think of the name of the realy at the moment,) which I think also supplies the power to the ICS. Now this is just a thought but maybe I created a problem by not finding the burned out wire vs. just creating a bridge. Maybe I'm causing it to open completely rather that a percentage like the ecu would control. Gonna do some schematic studying. Needless to say, after that long period of behaving well, the idle did change and the same symptoms came back but at least i think im getting closer.
BTW this is how I work backwards. I'm trying to think of all the things that i've done as well as the suggestions you've made. Ex. I know it's a fuel or an ignition issue. Im leaning more towards fuel and air ratio. She runs rich but drives great when cold then not at all when warm. So something that controls the mixture is acting wacky!!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

BTW!! One other thing, I DONT KNOW BETTER!!
All the knowledge I've attained about this vehicle came from and continues to come from this site and the suggestions from experienced owners. I am constantly searching and reading post. So when I say I appreciate your input and advise, Please don't add any other thought, words, or implied meanings to my mouth. Any and all suggestions are absolutely taken seriously!!!!
I love this car of mine and have put countless hours of effort into getting her back to normal. Countless amounts of blood, sweat and even tears. You can't imagine how desperate i am to get her back on the road after "EIGHT" long years!

twan

iTrader: (2)

Ok heres a thought. Correct me if I'm wrong but when the vacuum line to the map sensor is disconnected, the engine should stall! Well, it doesn't. infact there's no change at all in idle or anything else.
also,
I was correct in my thought about the jumper/bridge wire to power the solenoids. It seems that when I have that wire inplace, the ICS as well as the other solenoids are getting over 13 volts constantly, which I havent determined as of yet to be more that the ECU would give it at any given time but I'm gonna study the electrical schematic to verify.
also,
Is it possible that my stock air box mod is affecting the AFR? I doubt it but just thought I'd ask. I read in a few other threads, after the fact of course, that it might not be such a great idea until it's tuned with a wideband.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

It won't stall. Many new owners pop that line off all the time. The car will drive like crap, but it won't stall.

twan

iTrader: (2)

ok, thanks. thought i might have something to do with regulating the AFR somehow. Oh well, guess i gotta keep looking!! What does it do actually? I mean if nothing changes when its disconnected, what does it control?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, it doesn't "control" anything. It's simply a sensor which reports the manifold pressure. I'm no expert (not even remotely close to one) when it comes to tuning, but I doubt the manifold pressure is used for idle control which is why you don't see a difference with it connected or not.

twan

iTrader: (2)

ok good enough. I'll mark it off my list. THX

twan

iTrader: (2)

heres a thought; Is it possible that since i have the oil jet kit installed when i did the rebuild, and the fact that i am still using the OMP, could I possible be smothering the combustion process after warmup? I know that it leans out the mixture or changes the pulse cycle, or something; thats my thought since my vacuum is at 17Hg. and my fuel Pressure is a steady 35/36, with no leaks thats the only thing I can think of short of finding that issue with the wire.

twan

iTrader: (2)

OK, sOMEONE JUST TOLD ME THAT THE ECU IS SUPPOSED TO INCREASE THE FUEL WHEN IT SENSES THAT THE CAR IS IN GEAR. sOMEONE PLEASE CONFIRM THIS FOR ME!?! Cause that means I don't have a problem with the engine. I may have an issue with the ecu or the connection between the trans and the ecu!!!!!!

twan

iTrader: (2)

ok, i got up this morn and tried to figure this out. I have a few things going on here and i think they're, in combination, the problem.
1. ISC is getting alternator charge voltage of > 12volts and the FSM says 5 to 11 volts so I have to see why the EGI relay is putting out that much voltage. Thinking ALT regulator!

2. My ICS doesn't seem to be working. Not getting any change in idle with it connected or disconnected. Gonna have to remove the UIM AGAIN to test it. If confirmed bad, I may just delet it since I do have a block-off plate for it! NEED OPINIONS about that though.

3. My fast idle cam, after shrinking myself and squeezing behind the TB, doesnt seem to be disengaging. Even after warmup. This may or may not be contributing in a major way to my overall issue of not enough power. Gonna get at it tonight if I can.

Still need your opinion about having both the OMP and oil jetting together. Should it make a difference in engine performance?

twan

iTrader: (2)

OK, well the ICS works when I apply battery voltage to the prongs. That leaves the other issues to verify before I just trash the ecu. Again, The fast idle cam doesnt seem to be disengaging from what I can see, and finding the reason for the excess voltage within the system. Not sure if the amount of voltage would cause such a negative affect vs. no voltage at all but i'm not done yet!

Still need your opinion about having both the OMP and oil jetting together. Should it make a difference in engine performance?

twan

iTrader: (2)

ALRIGHT GUYS, HERES the final verdict!!
Not because of her, but because of a family emergency!!!!!!!!!
I'm SELLING HER!! 9g's
HOLLA!!!!