Isn't he asking about the 13B-REW kit that is pictured in the post that he quoted?....

"found a pic of these gilmer kits, NZ$650 "


It's been stated earlier in this thread that it is made by Greene Brothers of NZ.

 

you are 100% right but you are missing the title of this thread and post #6... Gilmer kits for an FD.

No worries though thanks for your help!

 

i hope anyone can find green brothers number because i need my fd kit.

 

Richard at Green brothers email is richard@greenbrothers.co.nz

And there phone number is +64 7 5722710.
If they havnt change it the laste months..

 

It really would make a WORLD of sense for someone to fabricate a reversed water pump for the FD, just to fix the small belt contact patch. Hell someone went through the trouble of making those REMEDY water pumps. I'm just saying . . .

 

+1, Totally agree. However, on FC's (which has a waterpump that rotates reverse relative to the FD), they still experience slippage. That's why FC guys put dual belt alternator pulleys on, so they can have 2 belts spinning the water pump instead of just one (I have it setup like that on my FC). But the stock FC belt is a thin "V" belt as opposed to the wider ribbed design used on FD's, so the wider FD belt may work better in this situation.

I agree that if someone designed a reversed water pump for the FD, there would probably be more options to eliminate slipping (i.e. a full cog/gilmer belt/pulley kit that includes the waterpump pulley). Who knows..... I believe at this point, that's just wishing for some things that don't exist....

 

I was at the shop tonight tearing down an engine and remembered to inspect my old stationary gears and engine rotors.

The bearings were new back when it was built in 2003, with approx. 20k miles use on the engine. This included a few road race days, a trip from TX back to NJ, and three trips to the DGRR event. Probably ran the Dragon about 20 times over those three years, which definitely puts a lot stress on the engine.

All four bearings look amazingly good. For the upcoming customer's build, I wouldn't hesitate to use them again, and we hardly ever do that at the shop. Of course, one rotor looks like a claymore mine detonated in close proximity to it, so that one prolly *won't* be reused

I'd also like to add that there was minimal wear on the iron housings and the rotors had next to no carbon buildup. I love my Idemitsu and Aquamist

 

cog belts also aren't a good idea on a car that sees any decent amount of mileage. they are really only meant for drag cars. picture what happens when one of the ribs doesn't catch the groove just right while you are sitting in the middle of traffic... yup. now picture trying to find a replacement belt while your car is sitting on the side of the road... yup.

 

???????????

What about all of the cog-belt-driven (timing-belt) camshafts on just about every modern car?

 

The bearings will have copper showing on about 20-30% of the bearing. However, I have found no direct correlation this is caused by not running an idler pulley but it isnt worth arguing with some on here. I have seen this same exact wear on stat gear bearings on torn down factory longblocks with 25-50k miles that had ran the airpump its entire life. Not saying there isnt a benefit, just saying it isnt life or death for the bearing like some like to claim.

 

Guess I should have read the full thread before posting, however, what I said was spot on. No direct correlation when it comes to bearing wear if one runs an idler pulley or not.

 

try this link

http://www.endevourengineering.co.nz/

 

Great, thanks!

 

Thank you Sir!!!

 

your welcome guys, someone want to buy me a set?

 

Hi guys, seem like not many have one of theese. Bout $600 and 4 hours later at home= FD cogged belt drive. Had no probs with W/P or overheating/ slippage. Belt still looks new after 3000km. Trick its dont have to tight... or two loose . very easy to be tempted to make to tight thoughhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93C_y...NFbXIpOUH68d_q

 

The pump pulleys are quite a different size than the original ones = more contact area..... so in some ways its a good imoprovemnt for this. altho still small and runs on the back

 

While the Gilmer drive is pretty impressive looking, I really don't see the problem that it's supposedly fixing. Running a good idler pulley to get better belt contact on the airpump does the trick.

That's just a lot of money to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

Dale

 

FWIW, I'm using the pineapple pulley kit and I cannot spin the the wp pulley by hand either.

 

Exactly.
I guess you could argue it's personal taste, like changing from one style of wheel to another. And I'm told they make noise that some find appealing. But IMO it really is fixing something that isn't broken.

 

That is like saying a timing belt is a bad idea when most cars have timing belts and drive over 200,000 miles with no issues

 

So you have all seend the super charged v8s around that make a 'whining' sound. Its not the charger its pretty much all the belt... made even louder by the mutiple pulleys and tight bends wide belts.
The air squesing out between the cogs makes that noise. The fd kits are only small belts but defantly make a distinctive whine, mine has very quiet exhaust and can hear it a mile away at revs... just something a little different.
I never had any colling issues, even if was minimal slippage at hard high reves... hard to tell, didint get it to fix a problem as souch, always had v8s and like the noise, makes people turn their heads a bit more.
With this set up I run the delt very loose, maybe 15mm defection in the middle, can twist belt about 90 degrees.
as far as slippage on new belt, the pulley has a little more contact around the circumfrence plus its over twice as wide as standard one....

End note...... user preferance, no slip, looks good, sounds better $600 NZD, chicken feed for cool factor

 

The sound my Miata made at WOT with a Z-Engineering centrifugal supercharger was definitely not the belt.

 

i agree, at least on the older 13B engines the cogs contacted the water pump pulley, this version is just a noise maker and i don't foresee it helping with belt slippage whatsoever.

which still break and at least can be found commonly for just about any car at most any auto parts store. take your frayed/ripped unknown length cog belt (because the lettering is worn off as you forgot to write it down initially) to an auto parts store and watch the head scratching commence as they ask what make and model car you have as you stare back with a blank look on your face knowing what is coming next.... yes, head scratching because they can't punch a few keys and get you the corresponding part in stock off the shelf.

hell, these days it's difficult enough getting those lazy ***** to even special order anything or get any non model specific parts looked up. i get grief even asking for BUR7/9EQ spark plugs because they don't match their database...

/rant off

 

Aren't most of the factory cogged belts used for timing etc. covered by a shroud and sealed from dirt and debris?