Clutch sometimes won’t disengage
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 230
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From: Orange County, CA, USA
Clutch sometimes won’t disengage
OK, this has happened on two occasions now. I’m standing at the lights and press down the clutch but I can’t put the car into gear. When push the clutch pedal down, it goes down normally, along with the normal slight backpressure you get due, (I think), to the work the clutch is doing to separate the clutch plate against the spring. In other words, it gives all the normal signs of working properly, except that the clutch seems to have not disengaged. This diagnosis was confirmed when I pushed harder on the gearshift forcing it into gear, which resoled in the engine stalling as the car started forward. So I am convinced that it is caused by the clutch failing to disengage and not by a gearbox problem, (happens in all the gears BTW).
Now here’s the weird part. I was finally able to get the car rolling slightly in neutral and then push it into gear (even though the clutch would not disengage) by roughly matching the revs. I then started to drive the car to get it home and found that the problem had fixed itself! It’s now working fine, but this is the second time it has happened in the last couple of weeks. Anyone had a similar experience? I’m amazed that something like this could be intermittent, considering the forces involved, and how just just getting the car into gear and driving could fix it. Help please.
Thanks
Dave
Sounds like either you have air pockets in your clutch lines, which needs to be bled or defective clutch master cylinder (top) or clutch slave cylinder (bottom).
Bleeding is same procedure as bleeding the brakes, have someone help "pump" the pedal while you "crack" the nipple at the slave cylinder, (next to starter). Use a clear tube and plastic bottle to "see" when the air bubbles stop flowing.
Now if the master/slave cylinders does not have rust or gouges in it, then it is reparable by rebuilding it yourself. Call Ray Crowe of Malloy Madza 1-888 533 3400. Kits costs less than $25 each and real easy to do.
I did both of my clutch cylinders about 6 months ago, still working like a champ! I had the same problem as what you just described
Bleeding is same procedure as bleeding the brakes, have someone help "pump" the pedal while you "crack" the nipple at the slave cylinder, (next to starter). Use a clear tube and plastic bottle to "see" when the air bubbles stop flowing.
Now if the master/slave cylinders does not have rust or gouges in it, then it is reparable by rebuilding it yourself. Call Ray Crowe of Malloy Madza 1-888 533 3400. Kits costs less than $25 each and real easy to do.
I did both of my clutch cylinders about 6 months ago, still working like a champ! I had the same problem as what you just described
Last edited by HawaiianRedMako; Sep 23, 2008 at 12:05 PM. Reason: correction
Another thought and easy to check:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU
search for clutch fork. or look in the FAQ thread for a link. It is there.
Keep pushing it into gear and you'll be on the market for a new tranny also since you're killing your synchros.
You new guys really need to read the FAQs...
Keep pushing it into gear and you'll be on the market for a new tranny also since you're killing your synchros.
You new guys really need to read the FAQs...
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