Clutch Not releasing when I press Pedal....
#1
Lawn Ornament
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Clutch Not releasing when I press Pedal....
It started last night after a long night of runnin her hard... The throw out bearing is still in tact with the ring on the pressure plate... The pedal still feels like its there, but every now and then when i press the clutch in, it wont disengage. I am starting to think that this is the cause of my third gear grind all the time, and 2nd gear when im runnin it hard. Because it only seems to grind when this is happening.
Would my slave or master cylinder be bad? or clutch pedal not adjusted properly
Would my slave or master cylinder be bad? or clutch pedal not adjusted properly
#2
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slave or master cylinder went south. cant realy adjust a hydrolic system.
start with these 2. look around for brake fluid leaking. sounds like one of the 2 above.
start with these 2. look around for brake fluid leaking. sounds like one of the 2 above.
#6
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Location: ASI Racing in Ft Lauderdale 954-566-2472
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Is there still a little play in the foot pedal(1in up and down)if not theres an adjustment on the rod off the back of the foot pedal,I think its 2 twelves,... try adjusting this and it may buy you some time. Lack of fluid or a bad slave is unlikely becuse when these 2 happen it usually will have a prob in-gaging and you cant seem to get it dis-engaged,which prob is disc and p.plate trouble.
#7
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THere is the same amount of movement on the disc and plate, so im pretty sure its not that, ill give the adjustment another try, i know for a fact its way off,
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#8
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Originally posted by ejmack1
THere is the same amount of movement on the disc and plate, so im pretty sure its not that, ill give the adjustment another try, i know for a fact its way off,
THere is the same amount of movement on the disc and plate, so im pretty sure its not that, ill give the adjustment another try, i know for a fact its way off,
#9
I had something like this go wrong with my tolan after "racing" in it the clutch felt like it would go out no pressure what so ever. Till it got to the very bottem. It was my clutch master cylinder. I've also heard that a kids flywheel was loose in his car and had something like the same problems.
#10
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I hope the flywheel isn't loose! I tightened the **** out of that ******!
I drove the car tonight after getting my differential in, and it seemd fine... hmmmm who know! lol
I drove the car tonight after getting my differential in, and it seemd fine... hmmmm who know! lol
#11
My guess is that the clutch hydraulics are bad, the slave cylinder is loose, or you broke the clutch fork.
You aren't leaking fluid, so it isn't the hose. Though you can get SS ones for $20 from Mazdatrix if you want to do some upgrades while you are in there.
If the slave isn't simply loose, it is probably one of the cylinders or a broken actuator arm. I don't know anything about the arm/fork, but... You can get a master cylinder rebuild kit for not too much money, and it is not very hard to rebuild. The slave cylinder can also be rebuilt, but they are pretty cheap as remans, so that may be easier.
If you replace the hydraulics, get a pressure bleeder from http://www.motiveproducts.com/ or just leave the slave bleeder screw open a bit for 24 hrs. I had a hell of a time trying to bleed mine with a vacuum bleeder and it just didn't work. I left it open a bit and it was much easier the next day. I have since used a pressure bleeder for the brakes (it rules!) and I imagine it would be great for a fresh clutch installation, too. Speedbleeders don't work with a lot of air in the lines and my clutch Speedbleeder did not fit in my reman anyway.
-Max
You aren't leaking fluid, so it isn't the hose. Though you can get SS ones for $20 from Mazdatrix if you want to do some upgrades while you are in there.
If the slave isn't simply loose, it is probably one of the cylinders or a broken actuator arm. I don't know anything about the arm/fork, but... You can get a master cylinder rebuild kit for not too much money, and it is not very hard to rebuild. The slave cylinder can also be rebuilt, but they are pretty cheap as remans, so that may be easier.
If you replace the hydraulics, get a pressure bleeder from http://www.motiveproducts.com/ or just leave the slave bleeder screw open a bit for 24 hrs. I had a hell of a time trying to bleed mine with a vacuum bleeder and it just didn't work. I left it open a bit and it was much easier the next day. I have since used a pressure bleeder for the brakes (it rules!) and I imagine it would be great for a fresh clutch installation, too. Speedbleeders don't work with a lot of air in the lines and my clutch Speedbleeder did not fit in my reman anyway.
-Max
#13
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you might look into shimming your flywheel. i had a mustang come into my shop and after a flywheel resurface and new clutch, it wouldnt disengage. never seen anything like it. i would try the $10 fix first.
#14
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Don't know if this will help much but, my truck did the same thing, it wouldn't engage or disengage. It turned out that the bracket in the firewall that held the clutch line in had come out. All I had to do was put it back into it's hole in the firewall and it was fine. I hope it is as simple as that and nothing major. Good luck.
- Steiner
- Steiner
#15
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Originally posted by maxcooper
My guess is that the clutch hydraulics are bad, the slave cylinder is loose, or you broke the clutch fork.
You aren't leaking fluid, so it isn't the hose.
My guess is that the clutch hydraulics are bad, the slave cylinder is loose, or you broke the clutch fork.
You aren't leaking fluid, so it isn't the hose.
#16
Lawn Ornament
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yes the pin in the slave would come out and leak, i know its not the fork, because i can see it moving the throw out bearing. I have been driving the car the apst two days, without any other problems. Could it have just been from me running it hard for a good 4+ hours . Does the fluid heat up at all?
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