Hi guys. I have a 93 RX-7 R1 that has some bolt-ons and converted to a single turbo. It was running about 12 years ago when it was parked and it has been sitting since. I want to bring her back to life and was putting together a to-do checklist. The idea is to get her running again and then take it to a tuner.

So far here is my preliminary checklist:

fuel system flush (drain fuel, new filter, check fuel lines)
oil + filter change
compression test
new spark plugs
coolant flush
transmission flush
differential flush
battery
new tires

What am I missing? Any belts or hoses that are prone to cracking? Motor mounts? Should I pull the motor and take a peek inside? If that's necessary I will do it but hoping to avoid this. Should I pull the plugs, squirt some oil in there and turn it over by hand a few times? Thanks guys... long-time lurker.

This was the first time the cover was peeled back in about a decade...

 

My FD has been parked in the garage for 8-9 years as well. Some things I'd consider beyond what you have:

- Definitely may want to squirt some premix/MMO in the rotor housings and rotate by hand to check and ensure nothing bound up or potentially rusted.
- Coolant flush
- Brake/clutch fluid flush
- Pull and check your brake calipers for binding/seizing.
- Check e-brake for the same
- Check suspension bushings
- Power Steering fluid
- hvac levels?
- any old rubber vac/boost hoses?

I'm by no means an expert in my own mind, these are all things my shop is addressing in the process of resto/building mine.

 

Was the car store dry or was all the fluid still in it from 10yrs ago?

 

Thanks good list. I'll definitely add some of this to my checklist.

Still has the fluid from about 12 years ago in it. :\

 

Replace the belts.

 

Aside from what was mention I would also pull the fuel pump and inspect the tank, make sure no rust has develop, if it is all rusty inside then you'll have to get a new tank and pump assembly.

Not sure if you'll be able to tell if there's rust when you drain the coolant, sometimes corrosion can occur at the seal groove with coolant sitting there for that long.

 

All good points. Gas tank rust is a BIG problem, you definitely want to pull the fuel pump and have a look. It's easy to do from the hatch, you don't have to drop the fuel tank or anything.

Also the tank has a drain plug FYI.

Get some oil in each rotor and turn over by hand. You will also want to pull the EGI fuse and crank until you have oil pressure before starting. Starting on dry bearings is REALLY bad.

Do you know WHY the car was parked/not run for so long? I'm wondering if the engine is good. Most times when these cars are parked it's due to a blown engine.

Take baby steps on it - go over everything and see what it needs from a visual. May want to do a compression test before going too far off the deep end getting it to run - may just be worth pulling the motor if it's blown/major problems.

The car looks great, this FD needs to be saved!

Dale

 

All good points guys.

I did read about the fuel tank drain plug. I'll definitely check out the fuel pump and maybe even replace it depending on cost. I'll lube up the motor and hand crank it. I'll also let it build oil pressure before I try to start it. I may get an RCT-V5 so I can compression test it too. Is that worth it?

I'm actually posting this for a really good childhood friend of mine. I'm going to help him with this journey. He's not an online/forum guy. We made a deal if I buy a GT-R he'll get his RX-7 back on the road. He is the second owner, purchased in about 2001. We grew up in a neighborhood with a lot of gang violence and the car started attracting too much attention. Combine that with failed emissions, a poor tune, and the car was taking up all of his income and priorities in life changed (girls). It was driven and parked without any major mechanical issues. A rebuild due to apex seals was done about 1000 miles prior.

 

Yeah, the RCT is awesome. I saw Steve this weekend at Deal's Gap, awesome guy and that tester does an amazing job for a good price.

Just take baby steps. Also worth doing a fuel filter as well. But, start with an assessment of how things sit right now - figure out if you have a rusty tank, go ahead and change oil and coolant and see how they look coming out.

Others know more about what is needed to pass emissions in California, obviously that will need to be addressed to eventually get the car on the road.

The way I see it -

Phase 1 - assess car, check systems over, get ready to try and see if engine is good - oil, gas, coolant.

Phase 2 - get the engine to start, hopefully get it to idle. Make sure oil pressure is good, coolant seals are good, car isn't leaking anything. If you notice things it needs at this point, address those.

Phase 3 - Car is running well, get it ready to drive. Brakes will probably be rusted up, go through the whole braking system, flush brake fluid, make sure calipers are good and not rusted shut. Make sure parking brake works. Drive around the neighborhood and again assess what the car needs.

Phase 4 - Car can run and drive well. GET NEW TIRES, old tires are a HUGE safety risk. See what needs to be done to get the car to pass emissions and get tagged/registered/insured and legal for road use.

Phase 5 - work on any cosmetics and fine-tuning things.

I hope this works out well for you guys!

Dale

 

Completely agree with your list. But I think Phase 4 is most often overlooked.

Tires at least 12 years old probably should be replaced before driving.

The tires I had on my FD that was parked for 6 years were still holding air, how I have no idea. They were over a decade old and although I am sure I could have driven it home I bought new tires (on the OEM wheels) and swapped wheels before driving it home.

Was fortunate that with a new battery that the engine started on the first crank instantly, and was pretty quick to idle smoothly.

Agree with all of your recommendations but in the OP's case would move tires near the top as part of Phase 1.

 

New tires are important but they aren't necessary until you get to the phase where you can drive it. If you find out you need a new engine, pay that money then move forward. That way you aren't putting out a ton of cash at the beginning. Also could be the car is more of a basket case than it seems to be at first glance and would be a better project for someone else to tackle, if so you aren't out a lot of money.

Dale

 

Tires will definitely be at the top of the priority list. The car owner has a nice little chunk of change set aside for this project and I already caught him shoe shopping for some nice wheels so tires are near the top of the list before it's driven. Same with trans flush, diff flush, replace anything rubber, new brake pads, maybe new brake lines, etc. We do want to hear it turn over and run before we dive all the way in.

Here is my checklist so far. Maybe somebody in the future can use this and I'm still adding to it and changing it around:

Phase 1 - assess car, check systems over, get ready to try and see if engine is good - oil, gas, coolant.

• drain fuel using plug
• remove fuel pump & inspect (replace sock at minimum)
• new fuel filter
• blow out lines
• inspect inside tank for any signs of rust *big issue with rx-7's*
• inspect fuel lines
• coolant flush
• oil change + filter

parts list:

• fuel pump or fuel lines? inspect first
• fuel filter
• new coolant
• oil filter
• oil

Phase 2 - get the engine to start, hopefully get it to idle. Make sure oil pressure is good, coolant seals are good, car isn't leaking anything. If you notice things it needs at this point, address those.

• new spark plugs
• spray in oil and hand crank (marvel mystery oil, 2 cycle or motor oil in lower plug holes)
• with plugs out hand crank and let sit
• remove EGI and crank until oil pressure is built (do not start on dry bearings)
• compression test? if so buy a RCT-V5 (worth it)
• build oil pressure and start it. keep rpms up do not let die. get to full temp. do fans kick on?

parts list:

• spark plugs
• marvel mystery oil
• RCT-V5

Phase 3 - Car is running well, get it ready to drive. Brakes will probably be rusted up, go through the whole braking system, flush brake fluid, make sure calipers are good and not rusted shut. Make sure parking brake works. Drive around the neighborhood and again assess what the car needs.

• brake line bleed
• new tires
• power steering flush
• pull brakes check for seizing
• check ebrake for same
• check suspension bushings
• check rubber vacuum and boost hoses

Phase 4 - Car can run and drive well. GET NEW TIRES, old tires are a HUGE safety risk. See what needs to be done to get the car to pass emissions and get tagged/registered/insured and legal for road use.

• transmission flush
• differential flush
• replace belts
• inspect rubber components

Phase 5 - work on any cosmetics and fine-tuning things.

 

Good point from that perspective.

In my case, no plan on selling, and tires were being purchased regardless.

But you are correct, that if the car doesn't start/drive/move then less an issue to get tires at that point.

 

I'm just pointing that out because I've seen more than one case where someone gets a project car then immediately fills a credit card with "fun stuff" - exhaust, rims, body kit, big stereo, etc. etc. etc. Then they don't have any money to rebuild the engine, replace a rusty fuel tank, repair a shot wiring harness, etc. They take the car all apart, maybe mock up the fancy parts, then lose interest.

I don't think this is the case here but it's just sound advice. With any project car, take baby steps - don't spend money on Phase 5 stuff right off the bat. It also keeps you from having too much into the project if you find something that requires you to pull the plug - major frame damage, major rust, etc. or just simply some major life change/event that requires the money goes elsewhere.

Dale