Car won't start after new battery installation...
04-10-05, 10:48 PM
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Car won't start after new battery installation...
Hey all,
How's it going? I have an issue (haha, don't we all?). Today, I had installed a new battery (Diehard Gold). However, after battery is hooekd up, only the electronics (ac, lights, wipers, power windows,etc) work. But when I try to crank it, the car doesn't start and all of a sudden, all electronics shut off completely. If i want the electronics to work again, I would have to unistall battery connectors and then redo it again...weird. There was one instance, after so many cranks, the car would start up perfectly fine. However, my friend and I have noticed that the negative terminal head is an opened head (no ring) and looks to be crummy, old, and worn. I figure it's something to do with the battery because the car was running/driving strong and idles perfectly fine the before today after I installed new battery. We're thinking either we have a DoA battery or we should buy the cable cap that converts it into a ring so it has a firmer grip on the battery heads. Has anyone experienced a similar situation?
Also, what does the opened hose lead too in the photo below? The car has been driving around perfectly fine (...well, before this battery incident today at least) so hopefully that hose isn't a big player in the engine. Thanks for everyone's comments.
eZ
How's it going? I have an issue (haha, don't we all?). Today, I had installed a new battery (Diehard Gold). However, after battery is hooekd up, only the electronics (ac, lights, wipers, power windows,etc) work. But when I try to crank it, the car doesn't start and all of a sudden, all electronics shut off completely. If i want the electronics to work again, I would have to unistall battery connectors and then redo it again...weird. There was one instance, after so many cranks, the car would start up perfectly fine. However, my friend and I have noticed that the negative terminal head is an opened head (no ring) and looks to be crummy, old, and worn. I figure it's something to do with the battery because the car was running/driving strong and idles perfectly fine the before today after I installed new battery. We're thinking either we have a DoA battery or we should buy the cable cap that converts it into a ring so it has a firmer grip on the battery heads. Has anyone experienced a similar situation?
Also, what does the opened hose lead too in the photo below? The car has been driving around perfectly fine (...well, before this battery incident today at least) so hopefully that hose isn't a big player in the engine. Thanks for everyone's comments.
eZ
Last edited by eFini Zero; 04-10-05 at 11:01 PM.
04-11-05, 12:09 AM
#2
don't race, don't need to
Typically, this is caused by very poor ground connection to the battery with the stock cables. When I did my battery relocation, I noticed the negative cable was really corroded at the crimps. I replaced it temporarily with an extra long ground cable from the local auto parts store... helped starting immensely! Battery relocation involved ground cables every where, pulling the starter cable (hot lead to the starter, also corroded) and re-wrapping the harness. Anyway, I'd go looking at the grounds. The stock ground cable starts at the battery with that cheesey strap clamp, then runs to the bracket that holds the fuse block assembly, where the insulation is stripped for an inch or so and crimped into the bracket (first major place of corrosion). Then the cable extends down to the engine block, in the center, towards the bottom, crimped to another bracket. Second place of corrosion. Try replacing it.
The big open hose is the air source for the accelerated warm up system. There is a solenoid on the underside of the UIM that opens at cold startup and draws air through this tube. This is what causes the 3K revup at startup, which can be defeated by starting in 1st gear (clutch in of course) or blipping the throttle before the revs take off. Or unplugging the solenoid, though this throws an ECU malfunction light. If you still have your AWS system set up and running, you are drawing unfiltered air at startup, which has it's obvious problems. The hose would run into a bung in the back of the elbow if you had the stocker instead of the Greddy. Try putting some filtration on that thing, or defeating the AWS solenoid...
The big open hose is the air source for the accelerated warm up system. There is a solenoid on the underside of the UIM that opens at cold startup and draws air through this tube. This is what causes the 3K revup at startup, which can be defeated by starting in 1st gear (clutch in of course) or blipping the throttle before the revs take off. Or unplugging the solenoid, though this throws an ECU malfunction light. If you still have your AWS system set up and running, you are drawing unfiltered air at startup, which has it's obvious problems. The hose would run into a bung in the back of the elbow if you had the stocker instead of the Greddy. Try putting some filtration on that thing, or defeating the AWS solenoid...
04-11-05, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by spurvo
Typically, this is caused by very poor ground connection to the battery with the stock cables. When I did my battery relocation, I noticed the negative cable was really corroded at the crimps. I replaced it temporarily with an extra long ground cable from the local auto parts store... helped starting immensely! Battery relocation involved ground cables every where, pulling the starter cable (hot lead to the starter, also corroded) and re-wrapping the harness. Anyway, I'd go looking at the grounds. The stock ground cable starts at the battery with that cheesey strap clamp, then runs to the bracket that holds the fuse block assembly, where the insulation is stripped for an inch or so and crimped into the bracket (first major place of corrosion). Then the cable extends down to the engine block, in the center, towards the bottom, crimped to another bracket. Second place of corrosion. Try replacing it.
The big open hose is the air source for the accelerated warm up system. There is a solenoid on the underside of the UIM that opens at cold startup and draws air through this tube. This is what causes the 3K revup at startup, which can be defeated by starting in 1st gear (clutch in of course) or blipping the throttle before the revs take off. Or unplugging the solenoid, though this throws an ECU malfunction light. If you still have your AWS system set up and running, you are drawing unfiltered air at startup, which has it's obvious problems. The hose would run into a bung in the back of the elbow if you had the stocker instead of the Greddy. Try putting some filtration on that thing, or defeating the AWS solenoid...
The big open hose is the air source for the accelerated warm up system. There is a solenoid on the underside of the UIM that opens at cold startup and draws air through this tube. This is what causes the 3K revup at startup, which can be defeated by starting in 1st gear (clutch in of course) or blipping the throttle before the revs take off. Or unplugging the solenoid, though this throws an ECU malfunction light. If you still have your AWS system set up and running, you are drawing unfiltered air at startup, which has it's obvious problems. The hose would run into a bung in the back of the elbow if you had the stocker instead of the Greddy. Try putting some filtration on that thing, or defeating the AWS solenoid...
Thanks for the very important info. Yes, the car seems to have stock battery cables as the negative side looks more corroded. I'll look into replacing it definitely within next few days. Sometimes work gets in the way but I guess it pays the bills...and car. Haha. Thanks much and I will report back if any problems. Take care.
EZ
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