I assume I should drain and blow out with compressed air what little water it has left, change the oil, and add some ATF to the rotors and spin it by hand so it doesn't corrode ?

According to my AutoMeter water-temp. gauge which has the sensor in the same area as the coolant buzzer sensor, it got to 240-F.

But since there was no water left, I assume it was hotter.

BTW: the engine was a brand NEW factory engine with less than 10K miles on it.

:-( neil

 

Why did it lose all the water? Leak??
Fill it with coolant, and see how it runs. Its probably fine.

 

Adam, I would think you would know better regarding these things. Remember your "Denial, Anger, Credit-Card" post on coolant seals

It lost all the water due to a bad cap.

I did fill it with coolant, it starts up sputters, and spews white smoke from the exhaust, then it clears up. When it sits, coolant now comes out somewhere . . .

:-( neil

 

When you say coolant comes out somewhere, what do you mean? A leak? If it is a leak, then you have to track it down.

When you say it sputters, smokes, and then clears up, is that once, or several times?

Fix the leak, drive it, and see how it runs.

 

The white smoke out the tail-pipe is only during start-up. It clears up after about 10-seconds of revving.

However, if I wait another 5-minutes and try to start, again it is hard start, and when it catches, white-smoke out the tail-pipe.

Now, after sitting about 3-hours, she won't start at all.

And I just added about 1-pint of water, and it leaked out somewhere. . .

I need to get some coolant dye. . .

:-( neil

 

Ah, for want of a cap the engine was lost. It's an old rotary story I'm afraid. One that keeps coming around and around. It's like that old poem:


For want of a nail the shoe was lost.
For want of a shoe the horse was lost.
For want of a horse the rider was lost.
For want of a rider the battle was lost.
For want of a battle the kingdom was lost.
And all for the want of a horseshoe nail.

 

Sounds like you lost the water mostly due to a leak, not a bad cap. Best to fix both.

 

Yep...and if it were mine I'd get it up to operating temperature, wait 30 minutes or so for it to cool a bit then drain all the water out. That way the residual heat will help get rid of the moisture in all the little nooks and crannies in the water jacket.

I dunno if ATF or plain 'ol motor oil is best for preventing corrosion in situations like this.