So this is interesting. I won't jump to conclusions as all seemed perfect. I was on 595 down south here doing a 4th gear pull and I let off the throttle and car just died. I heard a big blow off from the bov and that was about it.
Looked at the logs since I was "logging" at the time and everything is perfect. Knock, AFR, Voltage.... when I crank it shows RPM (is that not spark on these?) And I show injector duty... does duty not mean I have fuel pressure? Rating the motor seems normal... I can't hear like a missing apex or anything... could be flooded by at this point. I have no reason to think I warped 6 apex seals with 13psi on twins and water injection with low temps intake, water, oil.....DAMNIT!
I am sitting waiting for AAA with 0 too ls. Just curious of anyone has any ideas of 1st place to look?
Thanks!

 

no, fuel pump can be dead and injectors will still cycle

if the ecu sees RPM it will fire the coils and injectors and turn on the fuel pump. you still can have a dead fuel pump, or bad main relay or something
if you crank it and don't smell fuel, its probably not flooded and a fuel problem

 

Check the fuse for your ignition coils and does your fuel pump prime? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

 

the hook up is there, but I never installed it so it's at home damnit.

 

Sounds just like me experience on track. Depending on what fuel pump you're running, and of you're using the stock wiring or not. In my case my 2 Walbro 450s were drawing too much amperage and blowing my fuse. I'm lucky I didn't burn my car down before figuring that out.

 

I hope so.

 

I've been running this way for quite some time. I have a Supra pump with sakebombs' harness with an extra ground and power wire. Very small wires, but extra non the less.
I just hope it is nothing catastrophic lol... I really don't see how it could be, but who knows!

 

Considering it died instantly, it sounds like an electrical issue (or the FP died as said above), not mechanical. Most mechanical issues at least make noise or don't stop you instantly.

 

this seems like a pretty easy issue to diagnose honestly... step 1 would be to check the fuel pump and see that its working. a fuel pressure tester will give you all the answers or you can jump it at the diag box and listen. you can even squeeze one of the lines. it wouldn't hurt to pull the pump anyway to check the wiring going through the factory bulkhead connector if you're still using it with the sakebomb kit. also if you're using the factory o-ring attachment at the feed pipe, which you SHOULD NOT be, make sure it didn't blow out. if you're using a hose, a SUBMERSIBLE hose, make sure a clamp didn't come loose or that the hose blew.

everything after that would be standard troubleshooting. if you're using a power fc then don't rule out that it could actually be the problem.

 

happened to me once, HKS twin power died. Removed it, put it back to stock, all was well.

 

This! Check that bulkhead connector! Its not rated for aftermarket pumps that pull more amps!
Goodluck, Steve

 

This sounds like an electrical issue, either no spark or no fuel. I doubt you blew the motor, as that is typically very noticeable when it happens, and they typically continue to run like crap on one rotor or start on one rotor if it does.

When you tried to start it, did you smell fuel after a few unsuccessful starting attempts? That would indicate the fuel pump/injectors are likely OK, so then I'd start looking for an electrical failure that would result in no spark. What kind of coils are you running? Separate fuse feeding power to the coils?

Forgot to add - when you key on the car without starting, can you hear the fuel pump running the first few seconds to prime the fuel system? If not, it's your fuel pump or associated wiring.

 

Ouch

 

At least that will be an easier fix than a new motor! What circuit is powered thru that fuse? Need to figure out why it pulled enough current to go Chernobyl on you.

 

Yeah, it could just be the fuse holder itself. Also I only had a 20amp fuse in there... I thought it was a 25 or 30. Supra TT pump.
​​​​​​3scary to think something so simple can blow the motor. This happened I shut off the throttle abruptly. Could have been worse and happened with my foot down. Car idles the same as it did before. Smooth and power seems normal... out of boost lol I just rigged up a quick fix to drive it home. Can you believe AAA never came?

 

yes lol

 

Lol I had time to leave, go get an inline fuse and take it back home... i called AAA at like 1240pm.. I got the car home around 630pm lol wtf

 

When this happened to me on track, it was a bad GM 3-bar map sensor.

 

We're you in boost? I am just happy all was when I was off the throttle lol..... i still may go to the Dragon this year and I have a track even on the 16th this month. This could have put a tad damper on all that.

 

Yup. I was doing 150mph at the end of the straight at Watkins Glen, and it just died, and I coasted through the bus stop and down to the bottom of the hill. It wouldn't restart at all, and I was towed in. Wouldn't start in the garage after a couple hours work. I packed it up, and a day later I tried to start it while on the trailer. It fired but ran terrible, jumping all over the place, readings all off.

It reminded me of BITD when the vacuum, line would come off someones OE Map sensor. So I spliced on a longer line and ran it to the internal map sensor on the Haltech and changed it in the software. Started and ran normal.

It was (I believe) a cheap Chinese knock-off GM 3-bar originally installed by Speed1. I've since moved to the Haltech motorsports external. See if you can swap yours, its worth a shot. EDIT: I see you've found the culprit.

 

I have an apexi 3 bar.
I found the problem. I just need to see how to proceed so this definitely never happens again.

 

Hasn't everyone had a story of their car dying during a pull and finding out it was something completely minor?

Mine was that a fuel sock fell off during during a race.
I drilled the pump and put a safety clip on it so it wouldn't happen again.

 

I actually didn't know this was common lol. Not good. I will be giving a lot of thought ....again, to my fuel pump wiring.

 

a melted 20 A fuel pump fuse ended my 2013 Texas MIle. it happened in 4th gear at 160. 26 psi, around 575 hp. the engine would barely restart.and needed to come apart. the only damage was flattened corner seal springs. i do run a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump in the fuel system and the 20 A fuse should not have been onboard.

 

That's right I remember that story. I guess I will put in a maxi fuse and a 30amp ... or I may go back to the 2 step oem system and add some wire. I like my setup now, but obviously this didn't work. I did like this setup lol.