when you hooked up the PFC, did you look in the sensor check menu to see if anything seemed off?

 

Yes, nothing was out of the ordinary.

 

What about the turbos ?? Could the wastegate be stuck shut, you'd get more than 5 PSI on stock twins in sequential mode when reving, all you need is enough exhaust flow... I'd put the turbos back to stock before I'd chase down the electrical faults... Just a Thought...

 

If everything checked out fine on the sensor check, then there can't be a continuity problem with your CAS, can there.

 

problem isn't with the turbos. The turbos would not be causing a rev-limit-kinda thing.

You sure there's not an MSD box in there, Gargamel?

edit: what about whne you drive it? what happens in gear?

 

Along the lines of what others have said -- are you sure the leading and trailing wires aren't swapped?

I'm not sure what the effect of this would be as I'm not willing to experiment. Just a thought...

 

yep, this is how you test for leaks, you rev your car up to redline in netural and if you can get 4psi boost, you dont got a leak in your intake/intercooler system.


oh yeah, did you try reseting your ecu?

 

do wat this gentleman tell u to do.. try it in gear, any issue durin boost?..

 

I had the same issues in the past. Well, not exactly the same. It was the map sensor and wasn't reading the cprrect pressure so the ecu was trying to match that pressure and i had almost the same issues, the rev limit comes from the ecu due to overflow of the injectors or a boost cut.

Check your map sensor and let us know

 

Already checked. Not swapped.

 

It's impossible to drive. I can't get it above 2G rpm's.

 

Many times.

 

Already tried. I can't rev it past 2g rpm's before it backfires and acts like it's hitting the rev limiter but it's boosting to 10 psi

 

It's already been swapped out for a good one. No luck

 

I agree with DCrosby, it seems more related to the turbos than to anything ECU/electrical related.

 

It had nothing to do with the turbos. The turbos are brand new. This was happening originally when the car was sequential. It's now non sequential. Something has to be wrong with the ignition to be putting such a load for the car to boost at 2,000 rpm's.

Thanks anyways.

 

I'm pretty sure it's not the turbos.

A two-step is simply a secondary rpm limit that can be activated (usually with a manual switch or the clutch switch). If it sounds like it's hitting a rev limiter, then someone may have very well added a 2 step, but not likely, and I don't think you could hit 10 psi with a 2 step. Will it rev over 2k with the clutch out and the transmission in gear?

An antilag system works by retarding the timing until it fires after TDC and dumps in a lot of fuel. Do a search if you want to know more.

Check your timing and fuel system, the black smoke obviously means that it's very rich.

 

Sounds like your timing is retarded or (as happened to me), the HOME sensor wasn't being triggered because the little tab that sticks out of the wheel on the pulley , was bent forward away from the magnet , my turbo was boosting to 10psi hile "free" reving , when driving it wouldn't go past 3k rpm (felt like my foot was on the brake all the time) and lots of unburnt fuel was coming out of the exhaust causing your eyes to burn.

 

We replaced the crank angle sensors, main pulley pickup, coils and ignitor with no improvement. I've noticed that when I try to give it gas, the fans click on for a split second then kick off.

I still haven't checked the continuity from all the wires to the ecu yet.

Anyone have anymore advice?

Thanks.

 

What is the home sensor? How can I see if it's been triggered. I changed out the main pulley with a good one with no luck.

 

Yup - check the wire continuity (like you said) and especially the grounds. They are known to go bad and cause all sorts of trouble.

 

check the home and trigger sensors at the crank,see if they havent been switched,
its defenetly a timing problem , electrical not mechanical

 

How do I check the home and trigger sensors?

Do you mean the crank angle sensors?

 

^

 

you should see a slight voltage fluctuation when the piece of metal passes by the magnet, (induction) so a voltmeter will tell you what voltage fluctuations you're seeing, now all you need is to find out what those reading are supposed to be