kru510

iTrader: (1)

the only way i can keep the car running is on light throttle ...my tps is in spec but i have to give it gas to even start the car. and when i let go of the gas the car just dies because of a weak idle...any ideas?

IWINULUZ

iTrader: (10)

checked boost sensor up by firewall drivers side, also vacuum leaks can cause issues.

kru510

iTrader: (1)

my boost sensor is plugged in and for vacuum leaks i am running a single turbo ..so my vacuum lines are limited. I did check everything and seems to be ok. I have been searching on the forums and I cant seem to find a solution. I did notice that the bottom hole on the the throttle body is closed all the time and only opens when i hit the throttle..is the tps supposed open that up for idle purposes?

IWINULUZ

iTrader: (10)

that should be correct bottom butterfly shouldnt open until then. I understand your boost sensor is connected but it could have gone bad it has gone bad on mine and my father's FD's and gives you speratic <(sp?) ideling issues when it goes bad.

IWINULUZ

iTrader: (10)

opps , double post

kru510

iTrader: (1)

ok so I just started it again and checked my pfc and went to the sensor option. when i hit the gas the pim reading goes off. but only when i hit the gas..could that be a bad boost sensor?... My fuel pressure is about 38psi..should i bump it up a little more maybe?

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

I don't think you have a fuel pressure problem.
When you say the pim goes off, do you mean zero or no reading?
Does the car feel like it has the same power while driving?
What is the lowest rpm you can get it to idle at with part throttle?
Does the engine run rough?
Is it running very rich at low rpm?

IWINULUZ

iTrader: (10)

i wish i could tell you for sure. but when mine and my father's went bad we check tps and when it was good. we changed boost sensors and fixed our problem. but on that same note my father is running stock set-up and im running parallels dont know how or if it would effect single set-up.

kru510

iTrader: (1)

the pim circle turns black on the pfc when i hit the gas...while i was at it I got a few more codes..
ntr-neutral switch ...
eld-electric load switch
hvc-exhaust temp warning
pac-port air control
ccn-charge control..

now i dont know if those are going off because of the single turbo conversion....but i think the neutral switch will explain the 4-5 times clicking before it turnos oover but i could be wrong....engine does run rough at idle sometime..i got it to idle a few times but that was when i adjusted the nuts on the throttle cable to the max wich doesnt seem right to keep it within spec of the tps range.

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

I would do a compression test.

2jzge

double check your spark plug wires aren't switched. check that your primary and secondary clips aren't switched up.

hope that helps, good luck

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The sensors highlight when there is an open circuit (disconnected or failed). There is no circle for PIM. It is a sensor, not a switch.

The switches highlight to tell you whether they are "ON" or not. The Neutral switch would be ON of you are are idling in neutral, which it sounds like you are on. It has nothing to do with the click click start problem, which is common and unrelated. The ELD indicator comes on when the fans come on, or if the blower is at max speed, or if the defroster is on. The port air is for the smog pump, that usually runs at idle to lean out the mixture when it leaves the exhaust ports. The charge control is used in sequential operation. It is normally ON until the secondary turbo comes online, at which point it turns OFF.

It sounds like it just needs the idle adjusted properly. Did you take off the fast idle system on the TB? the car will struggle to idle when cold without this, not unless you make significant adjustments to the adjuster screws. You don't need to adjust tension in the throttle cable. There is a stop screw on the front of the TB (locknut on the bottom of it) which opens the throttle plates. There is also a bypass air screw under the TB elbow, located between the two TB elbow studs.

kru510

iTrader: (1)

i have adjusted the air bleed screw and the tps to spec...i did remove the fast idle ...but i was thinking if the neutral switch is bad ..would that cause idle issues due to the car thinking it is in gear and not in nuetral hence the no idle..just a thought?..also i pulled my spark plugs and they are black...the spark plugs are brand new installed today and the car only ran for a total time of 20 min. Lots of carbon build up...i will post some pix

grimple1

iTrader: (1)

if the neutral switch it bad, it won't start. I'd be surprised if that is the culprit.

what happens when you adjust the exterior idle screw? the one opposite the dashpot and at the 11'o clock position above the throttle linkage?

kru510

iTrader: (1)

good point on the neutral switch theory...i havnt adjusted the exterior screw yet i will look into that tommorw..but i cant even turn the car on to get it to idle without stepping on the throttle...if i let go it dies..here are some pix of the spark plugs..these are less than 24 hours old...i have been running the ngk NGK BUR-9EQ's the whole time and this is the 3rd set due to fouling them out all the time. Keep in mind I havnt even driven the car yet.I am wondering if I need to run NGK BUR-9EQp"s or even 10's. what do you guys think? I dont have a twin power yet.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Sigh. you pulled off a system that's designed to automatically open the throttle plates when the engine is cold, and now you are frustrated that you have to manually hold the throttle plates open when the engine is cold. What did you think was going to happen?

kru510

iTrader: (1)

i was told i could remove it when i got the block off plates. I have started the car before without this issue.Its getting frustrating. I have not even driven the car once since I have had it. The cars tires have not even seen pavement and I have fouled 3 sets of plugs. I wanted to learn this car on my own but this is a different ball park from any piston engine I have worked on. I am just gonna have it towed to a shop ..I give up

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

Fast idle is designed to get the car warmed up not to make it idle when cold.

I haven't read every word in this thread but have you looked into your IAC? It's job is to control idle.

Better yet, have you tried creating a vacuum leak to see if the car will idle then. Pull off one of the vacuum lines connected to the UIM near the turbo side of the engine and try it. It's a VERY quick thing to try.


--another thing I'm thinking is that if the car is dumping fuel (aka tune or leaking injectors) it would explain the hard start issue as well as why it's running rough/dieing/fouling plugs when you don't manually hold the throttle open.

Just throwing out possibilities.

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

I have removed the iac, double throttle, and the fast idle. My car idles great, 850 to 900 rpm and no need for throttle on start up. This is a new engine from malloy so it may start easier due to higher compression.
Now back to the problem.
I think some more history will help solve the problem.
You said you have not driven the car yet.
Is this a new engine install?
What changes have been made since the car was last driven.
Is the PFC new to the car and has it been tuned?
Has the fuel system been changed upgraded?
Do you have a datalogit or wideband?

kru510

iTrader: (1)

man chris..i appreciate your insight..anyway..i drove the car once when i initially bought the car and that same day it was on jacks.Its more of a project car.Its has a reman in it with 23,000 miles on it documented. I did upgrade everything...fuel system 850,1600..,intercooler, gt35r,pfc with dataloggit w/ a tune from jason at rx7 store and a full exhaust. I have the aem wideband a/f at at idle is between 10.5-11.5.
I may have figured it out. The whole throttlebody was out of whack from the tps to all the screw adjustments. The bottom circle on the throttle body was stuck shut with grime from burning rich. That would mean less air and more fuel wich would cause to burn rich and flood out my spark plugs. The idle air bleed screw I also adjusted to about 1/2 a turn.I took the tb of and cleaned the hell out of it with carburetor cleaner and adjusted the screw below the tps that opens the bottom. Readjusted the throttle cable and tps to spec. It actually takes some time. Hopefully it fixes the problem. Oh yeah ...my pfc is saying my neutral switch is malfunctioning. Should i just replace?

kru510

iTrader: (1)

well everyone...i got it to start and idle but i idles kinda rough...im just happy i got it to idle. A/f at idle is 11.5. I also cleaned the spark plugs. I think I may need to do the idle relearn process to get a decent idle. The olny thing that bothers me is that I had to adjust the throttle cable pretty much all the way to get a 900-1000 idle.

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

Now we are getting somewhere!
1. Instead of adjusting the throttle cable, use the stop on the throttle body to adjust idle.
2. Use the air screw under the throttle body to adjust for idle.
3. The neutral switch is a common problem, search for some threads for the best fix.
4. I had to run #9 plugs in mine until I tuned my idle, it would foul the 10s.
5. You may need to adjust your injector lag (because of the 850's)to get a leaner idle. My car idles better at 12.5 to 13 afr
Good luck with the fix, let me know how it goes.

kru510

iTrader: (1)

ok the problem i have got all the down to the injectors. the injector lag currently on the pfc is ..0.06,0.40.chris what injector lag settings are you running to get those nice afr's...my injectors are shooting too much fuel for sure causing the flooding. There is no leaks either. I did a compression check and both rotors are at 120 psi..

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

I am running 550/1680 so my numbers wont work. Understand that when you change the lag settings this will apply to the whole map which will change your whole tune. But since you have a generic map and probably need a complete tune, try a negative lag of -0.04. This should help lean out your idle. The map you have is probably rich over the whole range, but you need to be very careful and pay close attention to the afr and knock readings. If you plan on tuning the car yourself I would recommend Chuck Westbrook's tuning notes, he is a forum member. Chucks notes are not designed to give you a specific value to plug into your map, but they will help you understand the relationship between all of the settings available with the PFC and datalogit.
Good luck keep my posted.

FixableUnknown

iTrader: (8)

One more question, what is your injector percent for the primary's? This is also in the settings 5 tab. The front and rear primary injectors should be set to 64.5. This lets the PFC compensate for larger injectors.