az_lynx

What measures have to be taken to make a normal engine stand work? Where do you hook it up?

I know there is a part from Mazda Trix but I'm not paying $90.

I have my motor out and sitting on 2 saw horses right now (w/ the oil pan off). It's quite stable and thats not an issue but I was thinking some things might be eaiser if it was on an engine stand. I know their not that expensive and was wondering if you can put a FD motor on an engine stand.

tia, chris...

spigot

iTrader: (4)

Here you go... http://www.pineappleracing.com/Prod-resa.html

Matt

az_lynx

Thanks... I'll keep that one in mind. I could have sworn that I read somewehre the you could make it work w/out any adapter. I guess not

What I have will work... just would like to have a better solution. That $70 will be better spent on new lines or somthing I may break . I'm only doing hose stuff and cleanup anyways.

aReX-7

iTrader: (3)

You do not need any adaptors if you just want to put an assembled engine block on an engine stand. No problem. Just get 4 long bolts that match the threads of the bolts that hold on the tranny, and voila! Bolt that sucker up just like and other engine. The plate from Rob is for stacking an engine on an engine stand. You don't need (or want) that to do basic R&R stuff on an engine out of the car.

I just recently put a Mazda reman in one of my FD's, and I used an engine stand while switching over all of the bolt ons. It was very handy to be able to spin the engine around to work on it. Much faster, and easier on the back!

I say go for it!

Jeff

az_lynx

Great! Thats what I wanted to hear!

Only a couple of more questions.... you say to bolt it up like any other engine. This is my first engine I've ever worked on Where exactly do I bolt it up? How long do the bolts need to be that I get? I'm prob going to pick one up on my way home.... then I'll grab one of the tranny bolts and swing over to Home Depot and get some long ones.

tia, Chris

aReX-7

iTrader: (3)

There are 5 bolts that hold the 5 speed transmission to the back of the motor (1 long one and 4 short ones). I think an auto tranny has one extra. Anyway, these bolts thread into the rear housing of the engine outside the perimeter of the flywheel. Use four (4) of these threaded holes to bolt the engine stand to the engine.

Well, the length of the bolts will depend on the engine stand that you buy. There will be four adjustable "arms" on the engine stand to be bolted to the rear of the engine as I explained above. The long bolts will need to go through the engine stand "arm" and then thread into back of the engine. For some engine stands, this may take 3 inches, others may need as much as 6 inches. You will need to make sure that you get at least 1/2 inch of bolt threraded into the engine, and they need to be tight.


I am sure you will be able to buy/rent an engine stand on the way home, but finding the right bolts might prove to be much harder. Remember, everything on an FD is metric, and these are metric fine thread bolts. Home Depot might have some metric fasteners, but I would bet that their selection will be minimal. If they do not have what you need, I would start by checking with the largest fastener shop you can find. If they do not have the length bolt you need, I would suggest ordering some metric all-thread from them and just cut some peices to the proper size. Then, you would just need to thread a washer and nut to them on the back side of the engine stand "arm" to attach them.

Go look at your engine and an engine stand, and it will all make sense. Just pretend that the engine stand is being bolted in place of your transmission.

Good luck!

Jeff

az_lynx

Thanks for being extreamly through and informative! That is exactly what I needed to know.

I'll try Home Depot or Lowes tonight... if they don't have it there is a Copper State Nuts and Bolts up here next to my work

Thanks again!