Can anyone identify for me
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2 Rotors of Fury
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Can anyone identify for me
In effort to finally redo my bay from previous owner's design, im starting first with new piping.
While removing the piece holding the BOV I came across this
Which had a hose running to the Boost senor as shown here
My question is, couldn't it simply be attached from boost sensor to here
Advice/Information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jim
While removing the piece holding the BOV I came across this
Which had a hose running to the Boost senor as shown here
My question is, couldn't it simply be attached from boost sensor to here
Advice/Information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Jim
#2
Always Under Construction
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First things first you should fix the piping so that the BOV is on the hot side of the I/C piping. For one you dont want it venting already cooled air and you dont want it venting so close to the throttle body. As for the vacuum line that is the vacuum source for the boost controller it is needed and should be pre IC as well and as close to the compressor housing as possible. You can not use the one from the BOV. Hope that helps at all.
Chris
Chris
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Always Under Construction
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Well first off you are taking away from the efficiency of the IC doing its job if you are allowing the cooled air to escape... And the whole purpose for upgrading the throttle body elbow is to allow for better flow and less restriction having the BOV close to the throttle body will not only disrupt flow but does not allow the air to flow smoothly through that area. Its really debatable either way. But I believe there are less cons having it on the hotside.
Chris
Chris
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Thanks for the assistance and good luck wishes
toomuchboost - I understand your logic behind the BOV being on the hot side. But wouldn't it make a tad more sense to have the air being released when its going to be its most dense in order to prevent surging? Since the air will go through the intercooler and condense...
Also, Should this boost line be placed after the BOV on the piping?
BTW: The car was formerly owned by a moderately active member on here, I will not disclose the name though
Jim
toomuchboost - I understand your logic behind the BOV being on the hot side. But wouldn't it make a tad more sense to have the air being released when its going to be its most dense in order to prevent surging? Since the air will go through the intercooler and condense...
Also, Should this boost line be placed after the BOV on the piping?
BTW: The car was formerly owned by a moderately active member on here, I will not disclose the name though
Jim
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#10
RX-7 Bad Ass
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Wow. That is shocking how hack jobbed that is.
That nipple on the BOV pipe is simply the boost reference going to the boost controller. As Rich said, you want the boost reference to be as close to the turbo's outlet as possible. With any turbo system you have pressure loss across the piping and intercooler, making the pressure signal the boost controller sees lower. This can result in running more boost, but you should always have as much pressure signal as possible then use the boost controller to turn up your boost. To me, it seems more like this was the only pipe Mr. Ghetto Fab could figure out how to drill/tap for the fitting.
Also, it looks like there is a plastic hose joiner or T just before it goes to the wastegate solenoid. This is right over the turbo. Once this bakes in the heat and gets brittle and breaks, your boost goes through the roof and you blow your motor. All because he was too cheap to get the right length of hose.
The boost control solenoid should be relocated to a cooler place, like near the front of the car. That location is just too hot, you can cook the solenoid, causing runaway boost or at best having to buy a new solenoid.
The 90 degree elbow off the stock turbo plumbing by the alternator there is REAL class, btw.
Glad you're fixin' it up!
Dale
That nipple on the BOV pipe is simply the boost reference going to the boost controller. As Rich said, you want the boost reference to be as close to the turbo's outlet as possible. With any turbo system you have pressure loss across the piping and intercooler, making the pressure signal the boost controller sees lower. This can result in running more boost, but you should always have as much pressure signal as possible then use the boost controller to turn up your boost. To me, it seems more like this was the only pipe Mr. Ghetto Fab could figure out how to drill/tap for the fitting.
Also, it looks like there is a plastic hose joiner or T just before it goes to the wastegate solenoid. This is right over the turbo. Once this bakes in the heat and gets brittle and breaks, your boost goes through the roof and you blow your motor. All because he was too cheap to get the right length of hose.
The boost control solenoid should be relocated to a cooler place, like near the front of the car. That location is just too hot, you can cook the solenoid, causing runaway boost or at best having to buy a new solenoid.
The 90 degree elbow off the stock turbo plumbing by the alternator there is REAL class, btw.
Glad you're fixin' it up!
Dale
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Dale, Come over!
So aside from relocating the boost sensor to a cooler location, I need to
1. Call PFS for new piping
2. Replace vaccuum lines
3. Mount BOV and boost sensor line in a pre-intercooler location
Anyone know what the red line is that looks super glued right to the FPR right above the oxodized alternator?
I have too much to do before Mazdafest
So aside from relocating the boost sensor to a cooler location, I need to
1. Call PFS for new piping
2. Replace vaccuum lines
3. Mount BOV and boost sensor line in a pre-intercooler location
Anyone know what the red line is that looks super glued right to the FPR right above the oxodized alternator?
I have too much to do before Mazdafest
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