California ECU----question
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California ECU----question
I recently did not pass the emission test here in my
home state of Connecticut. I think...."I think" I found the coolant temp is bad and running rich. Anyway, I have a california ECU which I know stricter than any states. My state is also very strict but not as much as Cal. I replaced a new catalytic and deleted my primary cat. My air pump is working, changed new plug and wire and oil. I have last chance to bring the car to the Dept. of Motor vehicle for test again.
I plan to put my California ECU rather than the ECU that I currently using. I am suspecting that the original owner of my car must have messed around the ECU...
What do you think?....Is it a good idea to put the California ECU?
MY Co & HC & NOX are very very high.
home state of Connecticut. I think...."I think" I found the coolant temp is bad and running rich. Anyway, I have a california ECU which I know stricter than any states. My state is also very strict but not as much as Cal. I replaced a new catalytic and deleted my primary cat. My air pump is working, changed new plug and wire and oil. I have last chance to bring the car to the Dept. of Motor vehicle for test again.
I plan to put my California ECU rather than the ECU that I currently using. I am suspecting that the original owner of my car must have messed around the ECU...
What do you think?....Is it a good idea to put the California ECU?
MY Co & HC & NOX are very very high.
#2
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how do you know that the coolant temp. is not working?
it could be the O2 sensor.
if the engine is running good, you might need to put the primary cat back on.
because all your #s are high.
it could be the O2 sensor.
if the engine is running good, you might need to put the primary cat back on.
because all your #s are high.
#3
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Re: California ECU----question
Originally posted by lotus7racer
I think...."I think" I found the coolant temp is bad and running rich.
I think...."I think" I found the coolant temp is bad and running rich.
Originally posted by lotus7racer
I plan to put my California ECU rather than the ECU that I currently using. I am suspecting that the original owner of my car must have messed around the ECU...
What do you think?....Is it a good idea to put the California ECU?
MY Co & HC & NOX are very very high.
I plan to put my California ECU rather than the ECU that I currently using. I am suspecting that the original owner of my car must have messed around the ECU...
What do you think?....Is it a good idea to put the California ECU?
MY Co & HC & NOX are very very high.
Basically, the difference between the Cali and non-Cali ECU is the operation of the EGR Switch. If you car is a non-Cali, putting a Cali ECU in will only trigger an ECU as you won't have the EGR Switch there for it to operate.
Last edited by Mahjik; 04-06-04 at 12:07 PM.
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mAHJIK
So, what are you trying to say....
Since I lived outside California, my RX7 don't have EGR valve, so therefore I can still use it without having a problem? I also don't know how the California ECU has been mapped (air fuel mixture) vs the other states.
I am assuming that their standard are pretty strick therefore the Mazda will conform to that strict emission.
How do I know that my coolant temp sensor is no good?
Because I saw the plastic head is busted and the connection internally is rusted.
So, what are you trying to say....
Since I lived outside California, my RX7 don't have EGR valve, so therefore I can still use it without having a problem? I also don't know how the California ECU has been mapped (air fuel mixture) vs the other states.
I am assuming that their standard are pretty strick therefore the Mazda will conform to that strict emission.
How do I know that my coolant temp sensor is no good?
Because I saw the plastic head is busted and the connection internally is rusted.
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There is no difference between the fuel maps. If you use a Cali ecu in a non-Cali car, you will get a Check Engine light due to the lack of EGR valve.
For your test:
*did you have new plugs?
*did you get the car FULLY warmed up? The main cat has to be HOT to pass emissions without the pre-cat.
I passed Cali standards last July by a mile with the mods in my sig and with the stock non-Cali ecu. I pulled into the smog station after boosting on the freeway for several minutes.
For your test:
*did you have new plugs?
*did you get the car FULLY warmed up? The main cat has to be HOT to pass emissions without the pre-cat.
I passed Cali standards last July by a mile with the mods in my sig and with the stock non-Cali ecu. I pulled into the smog station after boosting on the freeway for several minutes.
#6
Mr. Links
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Originally posted by lotus7racer
How do I know that my coolant temp sensor is no good?
Because I saw the plastic head is busted and the connection internally is rusted.
How do I know that my coolant temp sensor is no good?
Because I saw the plastic head is busted and the connection internally is rusted.
There are many components for the car which control emissions. What rpm does your car idle at? What's your vacuum reading?
What has been done to the car? Is it all stock?
When/if you go back for another test, do as rynberg said and make sure the car is warmed up so the catalytic converter is working at it's best.
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Rynberg---Majik thank you.
I bought this RX7 from someone else. The NOX-CO-HC
is very high. I passed the idle but not the 3000 rpm run.
This is the reason I would like to try the California ECU since I am not too sure if the original owner messed around the ECU because of too high emission.
The compression are both 100psi.
The coolant temp sensor I am talking is the green one, that controls and goes to the ECU. I belived this control the fuel when cold and shutdown the extra fuel when the coolant and the switch is hot. (Green switch)
Its bad and broken.
In regards to the EGR valve, you said if I plug the California ECU the ECU will send engine code. How about if I do the same thing I did to my Toyota Mr2 where I plug a piece of wire with resistor on that light purple connectors for EGR valve that is not use?
(1/2 watt 10k ohm resistor )
My Mr2 does not send engine light anymore.
The reason I don't want any engine light is because the motor vehicle will right away fail you if there is an engine light. This is mandatory in CT..
New plug, new wire, all vacuum hose replaced, new oil,
new catalytic and new o2 sensor.
YES! I will run the car in the hi-way to make the catalytic hot, then I will go back to the testing area.
I bought this RX7 from someone else. The NOX-CO-HC
is very high. I passed the idle but not the 3000 rpm run.
This is the reason I would like to try the California ECU since I am not too sure if the original owner messed around the ECU because of too high emission.
The compression are both 100psi.
The coolant temp sensor I am talking is the green one, that controls and goes to the ECU. I belived this control the fuel when cold and shutdown the extra fuel when the coolant and the switch is hot. (Green switch)
Its bad and broken.
In regards to the EGR valve, you said if I plug the California ECU the ECU will send engine code. How about if I do the same thing I did to my Toyota Mr2 where I plug a piece of wire with resistor on that light purple connectors for EGR valve that is not use?
(1/2 watt 10k ohm resistor )
My Mr2 does not send engine light anymore.
The reason I don't want any engine light is because the motor vehicle will right away fail you if there is an engine light. This is mandatory in CT..
New plug, new wire, all vacuum hose replaced, new oil,
new catalytic and new o2 sensor.
YES! I will run the car in the hi-way to make the catalytic hot, then I will go back to the testing area.
Last edited by lotus7racer; 04-06-04 at 02:18 PM.