When I first bought my car from the now infamous previous owner, he spoke of the a/c not blowing too cold. We negotiated him having the a/c serviced before I flew to NC to pick the car up as I would have a 700 mile trip home to New Orleans through the South East in June. He said he did, however I thought it wasn't worth a crap a/c wise when he picked me up at the airport. It seemed to work a little better the next day on the way home, though it seemed to fade by the time I got home.

I went to an a/c place found out conversion was not done properly... so I had them add freon ( I had a leak) and went on my way.

Later I traced down the leak to one of the dryer lines, replaced and did a proper conversion to R134a and had a happy few days... Then I had a new leak, this time it was the evaporator. Ouch, big job. so I replaced the evap and refilled with freon and now 1 week later, no joy.

I am not certain I have a leak but after 5 days (last time I checked) my system was still full of freon.

I am at a loss, it blows, but not cold. compressor maybe?

all help welcome.

 

Confused. Have you got freon (R-12) or R-134a? They are not compatible.

How did you determine that the freon (or R134a?) was 'full'? With a set of gauges?

Is the compressor engaging?

 

The fitting aren't compatible other than that there normally isn't a problem. There are separate parts but I did the conversion, just fittings with 40 AC no problems.

 

You need to go to an A/C professional. Ask around and find the best one in town. It appears to me your problems have been attacked piecemeal.

For instance, I have been told by A./C professionals that any time a major component is replaced the receiver/dryer should also be replaced. According to your post, this was not done. He'll also be able to find any leaks fairly quickly. The previous techs should have done this. I get the impression they didn't do a thorough job.

So bring all the paperwork you have for the services that were done and let him sort it out and evaluate your system. If valves or hoses that are on your car are incompatible with the refrigerant you're using, then that might explain the symptoms you're suffering. But ask him to check everything over and give you a full evaluation.

 

The place that helps me with my work is also a copmplete auto repair shop, 1 guy is an RX7 specialist.

Yes we checked with gauges, we vacummed out system, changed fittings to R134a, then refilled with R134a. The Evaporator went out shortly afterwards. We replaced the Evap, and 2 lines that were found to be leaking (checked with both dye and sniffer). As of last Saturday my compressor was engaging and blowing cold, however it stopped Monday.

I am beginning to think it is the compressor and if it is, I will switch the dryer out as well. The condensor seems to be fine and the evap is new.

Hoping that this will end the air issues... would love to get the a/c out of a lincoln town car and put in my FD, not sure that's feasible, but I hate being hot.... Don't guess a window unit in the rear hatch would do much for asthetics..... LOL

 

If at all possible, I'd get the system working with R12. You'll never have *cold* AC with 134a, just *cool*. If you charge up enough 134a to make it cold, the system will be short-lived - the higher pressures will cause problems.

My car had a leak shortly after I bought it. I replaced the culprit (a high-pressure pipe rubbed on a turbo actuator, making a hole in the pipe) with new O-rings and had a local shop pull the system to vacuum and charge with R12. It was $130 out the door for the freon, charge, labor, etc. - that's CHEAP. My AC is ICE cold and has been working great for some time.

I would definitely find a shop that *specializes* in air conditioning - not anything against your mechanic, but I've always found that it's better with someone who really knows AC systems. The RX-7's AC system is VERY basic, there's nothing wacky or special about any component in the system. Pretty much every Mazda uses the same basic design.

Dale

 

Mine is ICE COLD with R12 ('93 Base). On a 95 degree day on the highway, I've had to turn down the A/C because I'm shivering and my feet have lost circulation.

 

Then what did they do different on the '95 to make 134a work?

 

ICE cold really... My AC is great as long as I'm above idle speed. Even when the car was new with R12 that was the case. Mazda AC units are way under speced for there cars in 90's. Also assume that $130 didn't include the cost of replacing or repairing the hose. I had repair the same hose and less hose it was like $45.

 

There is nothing wrong with the AC (with R-12) on my 1993. My car is black on black and I rarely get beyond the first setting in 95 degree temperatures. Hold your hand next to the vent and it will hurt.

You are the first person I have seen complaining about the R-12 system on an FD.

 

Sounds like it has leaked down again. Jump the low pressure switch with a paper clip and see if it cools. Re-connect it and if the compressor doesn't start engaging, you are low again. Most common leak points are at the compressor shaft seal, valve cores, o-rings on compressor lines(especially on the high side) and evaporator.

If your ever around the baton rouge area, I'll check it out for free. I've got all the equip(vac pump/nitrogen/excellent leak detector, etc) to check it out.

 

Not looking for a pissing contest but you’re the first person I know of that doesn't run it wide open in traffic on a hot day. The factory spec for your unit is 38 my point is that’s only 2 degrees lower than my R134 converted unit. Yours may be lower or your definition of cold might be different. Now if you’re cruising I agree it does the job. However in my car with heavily tented windows black paint and glass sunroof it gets warm at the stop light no matter which you use.

 

I think it also depends on where you live, humidity/temp etc.

I am going to do some trouble shooting tomorrow and if doesn't work out I'll bring to an a/c place.

I'll let you guys know what I find.

 

For one thing, they put an extra fin on the condenser.

I hear this all the time about 134a .... that it doesn't work as well as R12. It is a half truth.
While it is true that pound for pound, R12 is the more efficient refrigerant, a 134a system is designed to blow just as cold. It's just that certain accomodations have to be made in the design of a 134a system.
I have a probe thermometer that you stick into the vent dash. The A/C in my '95 FD blows out the vent at 42 degrees on a 95 degree day.
My other car is a Jag XJ8. It blows just as cold.