AssassinJN

'94 Rx7 R2
Racingbeat templated portjob, street for intake, race for exhaust.
original cast housing
used 89 turbo 2 rotor housing
89 high compression rotors from N/A (9.5/1)
Garrett T04R with 1.15 A/R exhaust housing running at 11psi
SS turbo manifold
turbonetics racegate
Greddy FMIC - 2 row
aluminum radiator
eliminated AST
type s bov
G-force ECU
Taylor 10mm wires
"running all trailing plugs"
greddy under drive kit
6-puck act disk with centerforce PP (includes a twin disc exedy clutch as well)
3inch dp, mp, magnaflow resonator - Apexi N1 duals
eibach and adjustable konis all around
JIMLAB nylon diff bushing and trailing arm (not installed)
diff brace
R2 strut brace (was this optional? i thought it was part of R2 package?)
aftermarket swaybar mounts
stock brakes with crossdrilled rotors
Boost and A/F guages
4-point bolt-in roll bar w/ G-force 5 point harness
shortshift

Will also get aftermarket front bumper, AEM engine management and the aformentioned twin disk exedy clutch setup.

Mostly I just need some help with whether the engine setup is good or not, this being possibly my first rotary. Thanks in advance for any help with determining if this thing might blow up on me. And yes I will be taking it for a test drive, as well as taking it to a mazda specialy garage near by to have it checked out, so I'll check for knock/ping and the like. Thanks.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

I personally would never buy a rotary that was modified that heavily unless the owner was a close personal friend and i knew them very well.

That being said, just looking at the list of mods it looks like things have been done right although I know nothing about the G-Force ECU.

Is this a track day car? cause it sure will be a harsh ride on the street.

And yes, the R2 Strut brace was a stock item on the R2 cars.

books

iTrader: (8)

It seems you're looking at this car, https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=524372

If everything checks out then it appears to be a good deal. Just be certain that your Mazda specialty garage is very competent with modified ROTARIES. Perhaps you could arrange a diagnosis at KDR.

AssassinJN

Thank would be the one, found it on autotrader though...

Nuvolari

iTrader: (4)

Some more questions, how many miles does the core have on it ?

Was the car raced ?

Looks like the HP should be in the 350+ range with this set up. Does the prior owner have dyno info ?

Like wise I no nothing about the G-Force ECU. You may want to find out what shop worked on this car. Especialy who tunned it .

KDR is a good idea, give Dave a call he can check it out , do a compression test.

Good luck , let us know if you decide to buy this one.

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

The G-force ECU is a chipped stocker, just like the pettit and M2 ECU's. So a standalone would be a wise move.

CantGoStraight

Why would someone put in higher compression rotors with forced induction ??? Wouldn't this require some high octane fuel to run any kind of boost at all ? ? ? Doesn't sound like much of a street setup, but I'm open to the reasons why it was setup this way.

rynberg

The car sounds like a time bomb to me.

High comp rotors with a single turbo? For street use? Bad move.

G-force ecu running a single turbo? Bad move.

Stock fuel system with single turbo? Bad move.

The AEM is a piece of crap ECU. Stick with a PFC.


If you are new to RX-7s, buying a heavily modified car like this is usually a bad idea. As sad as it is, the truth is that a lot of these modified cars are pretty hacked together by people who don't know what they're doing.

I would focus more on getting a close to stock car that hasn't been molested. Either that or you need to somehow become a lot more knowledgable about these cars before jumping in and buying a modified one.

AssassinJN

Hmm... Again I have yet to learn quite a bit about rotary engines specifically, but I had been running a high compression turbo charged boxer engine (horrizontally opposed pistons) in a 944 for a couple years with no issues. As long as the block and seals are up to spec to withstand the pressure, the higher compression will give you better low and mid range response.

From what I've researched as well, using the 2nd generation turbo II rotor house should help contain all the boost with the high compression ratio and generally keep the engine from grenading.

What is everyone thoughts on the AEM? If it would be better to go with something else then I could shave some money off the price and by something else myself.

rotaryinspired

iTrader: (3)

The 89 rotors are 9.7:1. These motors are not like their piston counter parts. There is very little margin for error on tune or boost spike on a setup like this.

If you can rip a motor out and build it every so often then great go for it. I would never run high comp rotors on a street driven FD.

Did they change the counter weights to the ones out of the 89 motor or leave the ones from the FD?

This car sounds like a recipe for disaster.

Also the housings are pretty much identical.

rynberg

It's responses like this that make veteran forum members leave....you don't know anything about rotaries (by your own admission), but you don't want to listen to advice from senior members?

Go ahead and buy the car if you want. Running the car on pump gas will likely result in a blown motor within a few thousand miles or less with that chipped ecu.

As I said above, the AEM sucks, no one uses it. I've seen several of the few members who used to advocate the AEM sell it off and go with an ECU that works and is easily tunable -- like the PFC.

Section8

iTrader: (6)

Great Avatar

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Go with a PFC and get it tuned properly by a mechanic with signficant FD tuning experience. AEM's and ordinary tuner shops can F up an FD faster that you can say spark knock.

Dave

Brent 94

iTrader: (1)

The AEM EMS is not "Crap" and you have no room to say it is. I use the AEM and with great results. The AEM is more complicated to use but thats just because it can do more than a PFC can. For the beginner I would recommend the PFC just because it is widely known and most tuners can tune it for you. The AEM is just a more advanced and indepth EMS(engine management system). The main reason people sell it is just because they don't know how to program it and end up doing things wrong with it and just like with any ECU that you use, if you program it wrong, than obviously it wont work correctly. If you use the AEM you just need to make sure you have a tuner in the area that knows rotaries and they can tune it for you.

rynberg

You are right, I used very poor wording.

It is a very capable ecu, however, it doesn't even ship with a good base map to use. There is much less rotary support for it, and fewer tuners who can deal with it. It also doesn't have a Commander that you can use for gauges and info. That is what I SHOULD have said.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

11 lbs on N/A rotors with G force ECU and its not blown up already??

I agree with rynberg, Its a time bomb ready to explode. How much is it anyhow??