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maybe i'm an idiot, but i can't find anywhere on the forum on HOW to add a ground strap. what do i connect it to, and where do i run it to? what gauge wire? i did searches, but nothing useful came up....i really have a feeling that's my problem, too. it's definately an electrical system problem!

evot23

iTrader: (17)

All you have to do is attach another wire from the negative terminal to a good ground (engine or chassis...I used chassis)

Used 6 gauge stranded copper wire from Home Depot and just added the connectors.

Thats all there is to it.

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that's pretty much what i figured, but wanted to make sure. guess i'll have to skip outta work early tomorrow and pick me up some wire the bucking was terrible tonight...god, i hope this works!!!!!!!!

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I was smooth sailing again today...hope it works for you...post if it does.

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I added a ground wire Wed night...no problems at all since. Today was the first night I had the ***** to try the A/C at night with fog lights and stereo...again, no problems, AT ALL!!!!

I'll give it a week or so before I declare 100% success, but I'm liking it so far. The car has been much smoother overall

duckyjp

How long should the wire for the ground strap be? And what kind of connectors do you use? Maybe I will take a look at the stock one.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I used 6 gauge stranded copper wire. The length isn't important, just that you ground to a good site (chassis or engine). If you go to chassis be sure to file some of the paint away for solid metal to metal contact.

I used a 6 gauge ring connector. You'll find it easily at Home Depot in the wiring section.

I'm running good so I think the ground strap solved my problem.

good Luck!

boostedyellow7

im thinkig this could be a link to the problum the grounds that we ran when you put the bat in the hatch for some reson does not end up with a good enough ground let me no what you guys think

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nope. my battery's in the front, still. the grounds on these cars just suck is all.

did you sand down to bare metal?

boostedyellow7

ya im going to try and put mine in wed and going to see what happens i hope it works thanks for the info p.s. how is your car runing now any better thanks jason.

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so far, still running great. haven't used the air again, though, since it's been a lot cooler here lately. ran okay with the heat on, though.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Still running good.

CheezeFrog

Hey, what's that part # for that upper clutch switch? I just bought a "Clutch Switch" and by looking at the part and looking at the shop manual it looks exactly like the Starter Interlock Switch (the lower switch)! Grr... But the package (part #HF05-66-4D0) says "Clutch Switch" on it. This sux. I just bought the wrong part for $35! What's the right part # for the upper clutch switch? TIA!

boostedyellow7

tried the ground strap drove the car a little today seemed great tried it tonight every thing seemed good went down the hwy went around clover leaf came out the bottom and put in 2nd gear and it started doing it again and got more worse and i took off some of the acc and seamed a little better i just dont no what to do any more any ideas please help. the only thing i have not checked is the tps but reading the pms it lookes good.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Possibles:

injectors clogged
fuel pump operating incorrectly
plugs fouled

boostedyellow7

fuel pump is new could be injecktours but seems more elec to me to much varyince but thanks .

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still going good, even tried the air again the other night with no problems.

(sigh). now, however, i have bigger worries. my oil sending unit is leaking - no biggie. but so is my secondary turbo. doh!

CURSE THIS CAR!!! then remember why i love it so damn much once i get it fixed gotta sit down and evaluate my options/willingness to dive into deep debt. keep it twins or go single? one thing's for sure, this car sure does keep things interesting!

evot23

iTrader: (17)

I know what you mean, its seems that as soon as you fix one thing, something else rears it ugly head.

I figure that if it breaks, its time to upgrade it. 2mm - 3mm seals
twins turbos to single, etc.

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i'm (hopefully) going to be talking to someone today to get an idea of cost for keeping it twin vs going single. my main concern is keeping things as reliable as possible since it's my daily driver - although i may be buying my dad's escort for a backup. i also don't want to go way overboard on cost, seeing as how there are other things i'd like to buy in life other than stuff for my car

but this is all for another thread, i suppose!

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Who misled you with that thought....

Cliff Hiatt

CheezeFrog,
Sorry for the late reply! The part number for the Clutch (disengaged) Switch is: LA01-66-490A. It should cost @ $15.

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sorry i didn't reply sooner, i missed your post until now....

i'm not sure length really matters, i just used a 12" negative battery wire i bought from autozone for five bucks. both ends have O-ring connections for a bolt to go thru. i connected one end to my negative terminal clamp, and ran the other to the front of the engine bay frame where there was a handy bolt hole from the old stock intake system. it was already rubbed down to bare metal, but if you don't have something that convenient make sure you sand down to bare metal, or you probably won't do any good.

it's been what, two or three weeks? still no problems. it's kind of weird, though...one time i can accellerate smoothly through the rpm range, and other times i get minor hesitation around that 3k mark. before i added the strap, i ALWAYS had the hesitation at 3k, even before it started the whole bucking thing. i may check the bolt hole and make sure the entire thing is connected to bare metal and see if that gets rid of it completely.

my car now runs the same whether i have my headlights, foglights, A/C or whatever on, which, considering how god-awful the bucking was, is a miracle!

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anyone know where the ground is for the fuel injectors? i think i have a dirty/leaking primary injector, but someone else also thought the same thing and it turned out his injector ground was bad.

i'm tempted to reground my whole damn car after the good luck i had with my first attempt!! it looks like the OEM grounds are only 16 gauge wire.

Cliff Hiatt

Something else to look at: check the neutral switch on the transmission. This sends a ground to the ECU when the car is in any gear. This has been the cause of many bucking problems according to a Mazda tech that a buddy of mine talked to at MADS. There are three connectors on the side of the transmission, they are: reverse switch, 1-2 switch and the neutral switch. I think that they terminate at the #1 ECU connector, can't remember pin numbers you'll have to look in the book. Unfortunately, the neutral switch is located at the top of the transmission housing. According to the book, you have to remove the tail housing to replace it. The reverse and 1-2 swtich look like they can be replaced without pulling the housing.

evot23

iTrader: (17)

AAAGGHHH!!! the bucking has returned...!!



Think my fuel pump is going haywire....