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broke spark plug "head" in housing

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Old Aug 28, 2002 | 09:26 PM
  #1  
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From: Schuamburg
broke spark plug "head" in housing

hi gang... as i was removing my trailing spark plug off..the spark plug broke off!!! the 4 strap "ground" threaded hollow head is still threaded in the housing, anyone have any suggestions on how to "extract" it out?? im thinking about using a hammer-in style extractor...theres nothing i can drill as the head that stuck in there is hollow

any tips please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 02:22 AM
  #2  
duboisr's Avatar
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From: Nashville Tn
try a large twist in extracter not a hammer in ,if you hit it to hard it can expand the plugs shell and mess your threads. be slow and carefull , soak the threads with penitrateing oil first .how ever you spell it
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 04:16 AM
  #3  
jspecracer7's Avatar
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
wow, that really blows goat *****. Even though I have no suggestions for you, Good Luck!
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 04:21 AM
  #4  
rotorbrain's Avatar
fart on a friends head!!!
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
see if a #4 screwdriver will fit in the end of it. you know how they have the 4 ground plates at the end? well, see if you can fit a screwdriver into that area and then put vice-grips on the other end of the screwdriver and see if it will twist out. be careful not to shear anything though. that would be very bad for your motor. hose the threads down with some "pb blaster". its the best penetrator on the market. go get it at pep boys or something.


paul
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 06:06 AM
  #5  
Flybye's Avatar
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From: Miami - Given 1st place as the POOREST city in the US as per the federal government
Here is the Number 1 reason why I ALWAYS use anti-sieze material.....

Good Luck.
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 06:28 AM
  #6  
rotorbrain's Avatar
fart on a friends head!!!
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From: sheppard AFB, TX
Originally posted by Flybye
Here is the Number 1 reason why I ALWAYS use anti-sieze material.....

Good Luck.
noooooooooooooooooo joke flybye!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 29, 2002 | 07:20 AM
  #7  
RonKMiller's Avatar
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From: Altezzaville
Bum-mer. Whatever you do don't hammer on it or stick a screwdriver in there. All you'll do is make it worse.

Shoot some PB Blaster or Kroil around the OUTSIDE of the plug base (or whats left of it) several times over the next 24 hours to give it a chance to penetrate. Then, as suggested, insert a screw extractor in the hole and gently try to unscrew the base. If you get it to move, turn it in and out a little before unscrewing completely. If it binds shoot more oil and wait a couple of hours.

If you don't take your time and let the oil work you will end up with a mess which will require the motor to come out. You may need several different sizes of extractors to see which one "bites" the best without spinning. They are expensive but so are engines. There might be some specialized tools out there designed to do this - check with Snap-On or Napa. **** Pep Boys - all they carry is junk. Oh, and don't forget shop goggles, there is nothing worse than metal or ceramic particles in the ol' eyeball.

You can also try to heat the exterior of the block around the plug with an electric heat gun on high to try to get it to expand and loosen it's "grip". Pull off the other plug wires and push them to the side so you don't burn them. If you use a propane torch be extremely careful and use it on a really low setting, you've got gas lines close by. As a last resort, run the engine for about 10 minutes to get it hot, and then try to extract.

Always, always, always use anti-sieze on any threads in contact with the block like spark plugs, exhaust manifold bolts, etc. You only need to "seat" the plugs when you put them back in enough to compress the washer at the base.

Good luck, and maybe someone else here can chime in with another method?
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