Brand new engine... WTF?..
03-21-07, 02:17 PM
#26
Rotary Freak
Originally Posted by efranklin
Trust me i know how expensive it can be. I just spent all the money i set aside for the car for the rebuild.. i have plenty of money coming next pay check..
03-21-07, 02:22 PM
#27
Fresh rebuilds often idle rough and start slowly. They are not 100% compression until broken in. This applies mainly to used rotorhousings, and many/most rebuilds are used housing. There's nothing wrong with this, it means you probably saved a grand or so. BUt it also means you'll have to tweak on it a little more until it builds up during breakin.
Bump your idle set screw on the throttlebody in a few turns.
Sounds like you need to go full nonsequential or full sequential, and not halfway between. I agree that the mechanic should have notified you of this problem DURING the rebuild/assembly, and gave you options to suit and prices for those, rather than just leaving it as it was.
My question is, why the hell are you boosting to .4 or .5 or whatever DURING BREAKIN to KNOW that you still have a boost problem?
Something here isn't adding up. Not to be an *******, but it sounds more like owner error than builder error, especially since a rotary shop is involved.
Bump your idle set screw on the throttlebody in a few turns.
Sounds like you need to go full nonsequential or full sequential, and not halfway between. I agree that the mechanic should have notified you of this problem DURING the rebuild/assembly, and gave you options to suit and prices for those, rather than just leaving it as it was.
My question is, why the hell are you boosting to .4 or .5 or whatever DURING BREAKIN to KNOW that you still have a boost problem?
Something here isn't adding up. Not to be an *******, but it sounds more like owner error than builder error, especially since a rotary shop is involved.
03-21-07, 02:26 PM
#28
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Fresh rebuilds often idle rough and start slowly. They are not 100% compression until broken in. This applies mainly to used rotorhousings, and many/most rebuilds are used housing. There's nothing wrong with this, it means you probably saved a grand or so. BUt it also means you'll have to tweak on it a little more until it builds up during breakin.
Bump your idle set screw on the throttlebody in a few turns.
Sounds like you need to go full nonsequential or full sequential, and not halfway between. I agree that the mechanic should have notified you of this problem DURING the rebuild/assembly, and gave you options to suit and prices for those, rather than just leaving it as it was.
My question is, why the hell are you boosting to .4 or .5 or whatever DURING BREAKIN to KNOW that you still have a boost problem?
Something here isn't adding up. Not to be an *******, but it sounds more like owner error than builder error, especially since a rotary shop is involved.
Bump your idle set screw on the throttlebody in a few turns.
Sounds like you need to go full nonsequential or full sequential, and not halfway between. I agree that the mechanic should have notified you of this problem DURING the rebuild/assembly, and gave you options to suit and prices for those, rather than just leaving it as it was.
My question is, why the hell are you boosting to .4 or .5 or whatever DURING BREAKIN to KNOW that you still have a boost problem?
Something here isn't adding up. Not to be an *******, but it sounds more like owner error than builder error, especially since a rotary shop is involved.
The most the car boosted on the PFC was .4 which is like what 6psi? i haven't taken the car over 4k rpms and the pedal hasn't even come close to the floor. I did use a little acceleration to get onto the highway but nothing close to pushing the car.
03-21-07, 02:26 PM
#29
Derwin
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: MTL, QC
Posts: 2,888
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by efranklin
Ok i just got my car back yesterday, with a fresh rebuild at 83000 miles. The engine wasnt blown when i took it in, my mechanic said the compression was really bad and it would be cheaper to rebuild then. So a few things i have concerns about...
1. When i asked when the good break in point was he said 500miles, would you guys agree that 500 miles is a good point?
2. Ive always had a boost issue, no boost gauge yet (ordering one next paycheck).. but i do have a power fc + commander which would never read more then .50 bar... a few times it read .70 which i believe is 10psi.. but rarely... so anyways my mechanic said it looked like the previous owner tried to do a non sequential setup and some of the vacuum hoses around the turbo were in weird places.. he didn't go into to much detail and said he didn't want to mess around with it. I havent taken the car over 5k rpm yet but it still reads .40 bar to around .50 bar.. what could still be causing this issue? bad turbo? those hoses in the wrong places?
3. Before the rebuild the car had idling problems and would stall out at idle sometimes.. well yesterday a few times when i would start off in first the idle would dip down low and feel like it was going to stall out... it happened a few times today and i took my gf home 30 minutes ago ( car was still cold ) and at a stoplight it stalled out, then at another stoplight down the road it did it again... could this have something to do with the engine? it feels like its not getting enough fuel sometimes could it have to do with the injectors maybe?
Thats most of my concerns as of now i plan on calling my mechanic tomorrow morning, and asking his opinion.. thx for the help in advance!!! -Eric
1. When i asked when the good break in point was he said 500miles, would you guys agree that 500 miles is a good point?
2. Ive always had a boost issue, no boost gauge yet (ordering one next paycheck).. but i do have a power fc + commander which would never read more then .50 bar... a few times it read .70 which i believe is 10psi.. but rarely... so anyways my mechanic said it looked like the previous owner tried to do a non sequential setup and some of the vacuum hoses around the turbo were in weird places.. he didn't go into to much detail and said he didn't want to mess around with it. I havent taken the car over 5k rpm yet but it still reads .40 bar to around .50 bar.. what could still be causing this issue? bad turbo? those hoses in the wrong places?
3. Before the rebuild the car had idling problems and would stall out at idle sometimes.. well yesterday a few times when i would start off in first the idle would dip down low and feel like it was going to stall out... it happened a few times today and i took my gf home 30 minutes ago ( car was still cold ) and at a stoplight it stalled out, then at another stoplight down the road it did it again... could this have something to do with the engine? it feels like its not getting enough fuel sometimes could it have to do with the injectors maybe?
Thats most of my concerns as of now i plan on calling my mechanic tomorrow morning, and asking his opinion.. thx for the help in advance!!! -Eric
At idle on the Power FC commander what is the VAC reading also what is the idle RPM.
I forgot to mention once you have your UIM off than the injectors aren't that much out of reach. It is not impossible to take out the fuel rail and go get them cleaned most places service them for ~50-60$ from what I see on U.S sites
03-21-07, 02:56 PM
#30
I suggest do not pull the UIM if you are not familiar with working on this car. Especially if it still has the sequential vacuum hoses. If I didnt suck at the interweb I would post the diagram with the precontrol and waste gate actuator hoses highlighted. Im sure mahjik will post soon with it higlighted, he is good like that.
03-21-07, 04:10 PM
#31
Lives on the Forum
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Lorenzo, California
Posts: 14,716
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
Ok, this needs to be addressed with your mechanic! Stop talking on here, don't touch your car, deal with the mechanic before you do anything else.
By your own admission, you are not knowledgable about cars (nothing wrong with that), don't go mucking about with the turbo control lines and such. Either your mechanic did not do his job or you guys did not have good communication or he told you about stuff that you chose not to have him do. Get this worked out with them first.
By your own admission, you are not knowledgable about cars (nothing wrong with that), don't go mucking about with the turbo control lines and such. Either your mechanic did not do his job or you guys did not have good communication or he told you about stuff that you chose not to have him do. Get this worked out with them first.
03-22-07, 01:26 PM
#34
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took the car in today he said he found nothing wrong with it and thinks its my PFC.. The PFC has an rx7store tune on it... is it possible that the tune is making it do this? It does idle really rich... is there a way to take the tune off and reset it to default?
03-22-07, 01:55 PM
#36
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im talking about the stalling out problem.... but couldnt it also give me boost problems? if its not tuned proberly? .. i have dp, cb, intake, pulley kit, 8lb flywheel and a pfc + commander.
03-22-07, 03:30 PM
#37
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Sounds to me like he's basically giving you the runaround. Does this guy know how to work on the sequential twin turbo system of the FD or not?
The stalling could be associated with the pfc. The boost problems, very doubtful.
Like I've already mentioned, I suggest you take the car to a competent rotary shop in the area.
The stalling could be associated with the pfc. The boost problems, very doubtful.
Like I've already mentioned, I suggest you take the car to a competent rotary shop in the area.
03-22-07, 03:49 PM
#38
Originally Posted by rynberg
Um, why the hell didn't your mechanic fix your boost issues during the rebuild? All of the vacuum lines should have been replaced and solenoids/check valves checked as part of the procedure, especially since you were having problems.
"so anyways my mechanic said it looked like the previous owner tried to do a non sequential setup and some of the vacuum hoses around the turbo were in weird places.. he didn't go into to much detail and said he didn't want to mess around with it."
I can't believe a mechanic would say that...and if so, why would you keep going there?!?!
"so anyways my mechanic said it looked like the previous owner tried to do a non sequential setup and some of the vacuum hoses around the turbo were in weird places.. he didn't go into to much detail and said he didn't want to mess around with it."
I can't believe a mechanic would say that...and if so, why would you keep going there?!?!
then again he should have brought it up before fully reassembling the car, as well i make it a note to always ask if the car has other issues before tearing into it so you can try to pinpoint issues before pulling things apart and erasing any evidence of an issue.
03-22-07, 04:14 PM
#39
BMW Tech
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Auburn, Alabama
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was under the impression that low compression was due to the housings wearing out, and rebuilding would not solve the problem unless new housings were used. anyone care to elaborate? because seems to me rebuilding one with wore out housings wouldn't fix anything.
03-22-07, 04:46 PM
#40
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
efranklin, what parts were listed on the bill? I hope he didn't re-use your rotor housings. With that kind of mileage, the rest of the hard parts (rotors/irons/eshaft) should be reusable, but not the rotor housings.
03-22-07, 08:43 PM
#43
BMW Tech
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Auburn, Alabama
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Jason
The stalling out could be the decel on the power FC. Bump that up and see if it fixes the problem.
Jason
Jason
03-23-07, 11:10 AM
#45
Team Benjos Captain
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Greenwood/Hartsville, SC.
Posts: 2,720
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The PFC would only cause trouble if you had a truly faulty PFC, as far as the boost is concerned. If this is the case, a quick swap back to the stock ecu would tell you. My bet is that it's not the PFC, but another problem such as lost restrictor pills, bad solenoids, or your tca.
03-24-07, 12:45 PM
#46
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok well to find out for sure if the PFC was the problem i swapped back in the stock ecu... ive only driven it twice since but ive had no stall outs, only crappy idle, 3k delay thing, and some backfire... before i switched ecu's i figured out the car would only stall when it was cold, i was stopped, and when i would put it in first... no other times...
03-24-07, 12:49 PM
#47
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
efranklin, what parts were listed on the bill? I hope he didn't re-use your rotor housings. With that kind of mileage, the rest of the hard parts (rotors/irons/eshaft) should be reusable, but not the rotor housings.
Ill list all the parts on the bill:
wlpc overhaul gasket set
oem apex seals 2mm 2pc
springs, plugs, o-ring, f&r (cant read handwriting) sears, brgs?.
vitton oil control o-rings
10w30 synth blend/ oem oil filter
cooland/anti freeze
coolant bypass hose
air pipe/hose to pop off
redline gear oil
nfo2 coolant sensor
and a few other things for my transmission..
his handwriting wasnt that great so i might of messed a few things up.
03-24-07, 01:49 PM
#48
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by efranklin
Ill list all the parts on the bill:
wlpc overhaul gasket set
oem apex seals 2mm 2pc
springs, plugs, o-ring, f&r (cant read handwriting) sears, brgs?.
vitton oil control o-rings
10w30 synth blend/ oem oil filter
cooland/anti freeze
coolant bypass hose
air pipe/hose to pop off
redline gear oil
nfo2 coolant sensor
and a few other things for my transmission..
his handwriting wasnt that great so i might of messed a few things up.
wlpc overhaul gasket set
oem apex seals 2mm 2pc
springs, plugs, o-ring, f&r (cant read handwriting) sears, brgs?.
vitton oil control o-rings
10w30 synth blend/ oem oil filter
cooland/anti freeze
coolant bypass hose
air pipe/hose to pop off
redline gear oil
nfo2 coolant sensor
and a few other things for my transmission..
his handwriting wasnt that great so i might of messed a few things up.
03-24-07, 01:57 PM
#49
rotary noob
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Looks to me like you got a half-assed rebuild, to include your original rotor housings.
hmm you think so? it was 3500$... damn i hope i didnt waste my money on a half *** rebuild.... is the break in point 500miles like he said? i wanna test my boost
03-24-07, 02:13 PM
#50
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by efranklin
hmm you think so? it was 3500$... damn i hope i didnt waste my money on a half *** rebuild.... is the break in point 500miles like he said? i wanna test my boost
How many miles are on the motor? Given that it has new bearings, it's probably a good idea to avoid ripping on the car until 500 miles.
Here's what i recommend to my customers:
1. first 500 miles, revs under 4k, minimal boost
2. change oil and filter with dyno oil
3. next 1000 miles, revs under 6k, some boost but less than 0.5 bar
4. change oil and filter with synthetic oil
5. Get tuned and rip on it
