Braided brake lines
#1
NAN777
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Braided brake lines
Hi all,
i'm about to install my braided brake line kit.
i need some information. as what i can see... the front ones seems to be identical for both ends. need help to differenciate it..
.
the other question will be where does those washer goes to ?
if someone has some pictured installation notes, it will be alot more helpful.
thanks in advanced.
enclosed the picture of the brake line. front and rear and the god knows where to put the washers.
i'm about to install my braided brake line kit.
i need some information. as what i can see... the front ones seems to be identical for both ends. need help to differenciate it..
.
the other question will be where does those washer goes to ?
if someone has some pictured installation notes, it will be alot more helpful.
thanks in advanced.
enclosed the picture of the brake line. front and rear and the god knows where to put the washers.
#2
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Once you take your wheels off it will become obvious. The washers are for the rear banjo bolts. A banjo bolt goes through the circular end of the rear line. You need to put on new washers on both sides of the circular end. For the front, the stock calipers have a short section of hardline at the caliper end. Your new front brake line simply connects one piece of hardline to another. Like I said, take your wheels off and take a look.
#3
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The washers are for the "BANJO" bolt. They are crush washers (metal seals) and one goes on each side of the banjo bolt to seal and prevent leakage.
Have you fixed your bad timing split which was most likely the cause of your unusual knock at high RPMS?
Have you fixed your bad timing split which was most likely the cause of your unusual knock at high RPMS?
#4
NAN777
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guess doing the brakes are straight forward....
oh yeah... interestingly..... by mixing 2T in my fuel... solve everything.... i really have no idea why pre-mixing can eliminate the issue....
i tried putting in normal RON 97.... knock like hell... the check engine light flashes whenever i do crazy ****... then i tried those RON97 with additive so called Shell V power Racing... not as bad..... then i tried V power Racing with 2T.... run like god.... so.. i try again normal RON97 with 2T.... also run like god.. probably lower ranking god as V power Racing...
that's an amazing story... no explanation.. but experiment proves the situation...
i believe there are alot more to tune.. especially my boost.. it's still hitting boost cut.. Dev haven't got the time to help me yet.... next month i'll order my datalogit... my wideband already arrived. LC-1.. so.... next month my car will be fully tunable... by myself with the help of Dev of course.. don't wanna blow my own engine
oh yeah... interestingly..... by mixing 2T in my fuel... solve everything.... i really have no idea why pre-mixing can eliminate the issue....
i tried putting in normal RON 97.... knock like hell... the check engine light flashes whenever i do crazy ****... then i tried those RON97 with additive so called Shell V power Racing... not as bad..... then i tried V power Racing with 2T.... run like god.... so.. i try again normal RON97 with 2T.... also run like god.. probably lower ranking god as V power Racing...
that's an amazing story... no explanation.. but experiment proves the situation...
i believe there are alot more to tune.. especially my boost.. it's still hitting boost cut.. Dev haven't got the time to help me yet.... next month i'll order my datalogit... my wideband already arrived. LC-1.. so.... next month my car will be fully tunable... by myself with the help of Dev of course.. don't wanna blow my own engine
#5
NAN777
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i have another problem...... those 14 years old brake fittings are too weak to be opened.... they are sooooo soft and the fittings seemed to be jammed with the 14 year old rubber brake line....
any idea how to open them ? or i should just bring it to the mechanic to let them do their job ?
any idea how to open them ? or i should just bring it to the mechanic to let them do their job ?
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