Bouncing idle from 1,200 RPM to 1,800 RPM
#31
Okay I checked the voltage of the terminal C and it's 4,93 V. Sounds correct, but now I need help for the next step, I do not understand.
"Is there continuity between manifold absolute pressure sensor B terminal and PCME terminal 4D ?"
The PCME is the little black box at the feet of the passenger's side?
What to they mean by "continuity" ??? 0,01 ohm or less???
And where's the terminal 4D ?????
"Is there continuity between manifold absolute pressure sensor B terminal and PCME terminal 4D ?"
The PCME is the little black box at the feet of the passenger's side?
What to they mean by "continuity" ??? 0,01 ohm or less???
And where's the terminal 4D ?????
#43
I bought a new map sensor, I'm waiting for summer to test it. By the way, here's a video of the problem. The sound that we hear when I get back of the car is the broken air pump.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlQwRp3-3VU&fmt=18
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlQwRp3-3VU&fmt=18
#45
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Man that thing sounds awkward.
I have a question. When the car has been sitting for awhile(long enough to cool down significantly) and go start the car up, do you still have idle surge?
I have a question. When the car has been sitting for awhile(long enough to cool down significantly) and go start the car up, do you still have idle surge?
#47
F yo couch!
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im not sure this will help but its very common for FC's (and other cars..and a curse for hondas) when they do that its usually a dead or faulty tps....i dont no the wiring or specs for the FD but on the FC if you hook a dvom to the tps and at idle you should get 1 volt...when you slowly rev it up to about 3500- 4k it should smoothly go up to 5 volts with the rpms...
however...if the voltage stays fixed at any certain volt regardless of rpm change..or the voltage staggers during the sweep(example: you do the sweep and volts go from 1v,1.5,3,2,2.5,4,1) then the tps is bad and must be replaced
the only other thing i can suggest is to test the map sensor with a dvom as well to make sure its getting and sending the proper voltage
lastly the majority of sensors out there regardless of car run on a 0-5 volt reference for the pcm....if it goes beyond that or zero reading at all there is a possibility there is a fault in the pcm caused by a short, or shunt in the wiring which fried a small section of the computer...not very common but extremely possible
hope it helps any....if not sorry to bother
however...if the voltage stays fixed at any certain volt regardless of rpm change..or the voltage staggers during the sweep(example: you do the sweep and volts go from 1v,1.5,3,2,2.5,4,1) then the tps is bad and must be replaced
the only other thing i can suggest is to test the map sensor with a dvom as well to make sure its getting and sending the proper voltage
lastly the majority of sensors out there regardless of car run on a 0-5 volt reference for the pcm....if it goes beyond that or zero reading at all there is a possibility there is a fault in the pcm caused by a short, or shunt in the wiring which fried a small section of the computer...not very common but extremely possible
hope it helps any....if not sorry to bother
#48
Brappable.
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Is there any time in which it stops happening?
Somethings wrong with mine as well, whenever I push the brakes immediately after I let go of the throttle, the idle will bounce. If I let go of the brakes, the idle readjusts and settles. I'm thinking it has to be electronic so this means sensors, grounds, and the like.
Mine might just be a bad TPS.
Somethings wrong with mine as well, whenever I push the brakes immediately after I let go of the throttle, the idle will bounce. If I let go of the brakes, the idle readjusts and settles. I'm thinking it has to be electronic so this means sensors, grounds, and the like.
Mine might just be a bad TPS.
#49
im not sure this will help but its very common for FC's (and other cars..and a curse for hondas) when they do that its usually a dead or faulty tps....i dont no the wiring or specs for the FD but on the FC if you hook a dvom to the tps and at idle you should get 1 volt...when you slowly rev it up to about 3500- 4k it should smoothly go up to 5 volts with the rpms...
however...if the voltage stays fixed at any certain volt regardless of rpm change..or the voltage staggers during the sweep(example: you do the sweep and volts go from 1v,1.5,3,2,2.5,4,1) then the tps is bad and must be replaced
the only other thing i can suggest is to test the map sensor with a dvom as well to make sure its getting and sending the proper voltage
lastly the majority of sensors out there regardless of car run on a 0-5 volt reference for the pcm....if it goes beyond that or zero reading at all there is a possibility there is a fault in the pcm caused by a short, or shunt in the wiring which fried a small section of the computer...not very common but extremely possible
hope it helps any....if not sorry to bother
however...if the voltage stays fixed at any certain volt regardless of rpm change..or the voltage staggers during the sweep(example: you do the sweep and volts go from 1v,1.5,3,2,2.5,4,1) then the tps is bad and must be replaced
the only other thing i can suggest is to test the map sensor with a dvom as well to make sure its getting and sending the proper voltage
lastly the majority of sensors out there regardless of car run on a 0-5 volt reference for the pcm....if it goes beyond that or zero reading at all there is a possibility there is a fault in the pcm caused by a short, or shunt in the wiring which fried a small section of the computer...not very common but extremely possible
hope it helps any....if not sorry to bother
Is there any time in which it stops happening?
Somethings wrong with mine as well, whenever I push the brakes immediately after I let go of the throttle, the idle will bounce. If I let go of the brakes, the idle readjusts and settles. I'm thinking it has to be electronic so this means sensors, grounds, and the like.
Mine might just be a bad TPS.
Somethings wrong with mine as well, whenever I push the brakes immediately after I let go of the throttle, the idle will bounce. If I let go of the brakes, the idle readjusts and settles. I'm thinking it has to be electronic so this means sensors, grounds, and the like.
Mine might just be a bad TPS.
#50
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Go start it right now, pop the hood, let the car idle until the idle starts surging.
Then, immediately check to see if the radiator fans turned on.
Finally, report back here.